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I finally got to test out my line locks at the track. Which is the last event of the year. Overall my 60 foots are better. I need to practice using them more before heading out again next year. I had 2 x 60 foot in 1.8X out of six runs. Prior to that I have had one 1.8x 60 foot in 4 years of trying... So overall it was a huge success, I didn't have any 2.X 60 foot either. I also managed to bust my best 1/8 mile time with Nitrous two times. Despite being a little rusty on my shifting, missed 2nd almost every run and some other gears (slowing me down)... My best run of 7.949 was actually my last run... 3.692 gears with a AT shifting manually with Nitrous is extremely challenging. But when I get it right, I get my best times. I took out a late model Mustang GT in the process with a 8.15 (second worst time) . Had some other tuff match up last night. Some other cars raced were: Supercharged Chevy SS, two different Helcat / Redeyes, Fifth gen Caramo and Chevy SB Truck. Next year is all about the 1/4 mile track in Fontana. Looking to bust my 12.606 record out there. Shooting for 12.4 @ 115 mphs with my current setup.
Well I thought my last projects of the year were it. But a found this lip on ebay for 80 bucks and figured I would give it a try. When it arrived it was pretty warped. I used weights and a heat gun to get it back into form. Then sanded it lightly and dipped it matte black (removed / already having issues). I didn't want to go any further then that as far as painting goes. Much easier to repair and do touch-ups that way. I used the existing bolts that connect the wheelwells a guides, pre drilled every other bolt and mounted it with adhesive tape. Bolt it up with pre drilled holes first and then tapped the other screws in. Fitment was about 90%!!! Not bad for a ebay lip... Right now it's under a jack to raise the lip on one side about 3/32 to match the other side. Gave it some heat and letting it sit for a bit. This weekend I'll be adding some splitter shruds and installing some catch cans . More on that later.
Last edited by jdog78; 01-03-2020 at 01:01 PM.
Reason: update
Finally done modding for the year... Finished installing my lip and AAD W1 Catch Cans and they look awesome! Here is my latest build video and pictures of the Catch Can install.
Update: Sadly this didn't fix the issues. That part is actually that noisy new... Back to the drawing board. Once the car is started, it doesn't impact performance. Ran my best 1/4 time the other day.
Update: I found the source of the noise using a oil funnel as oscilloscope. I took the engine cover off and went over it one more time with my phone. Which helped me find the area to focus on after listening to it a few times. I used the oil funnel to listen to a few areas it seem to be coming from. Luckily it wasn't one of the injectors, but the Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid. When the VCPS goes bad it can cause idling problems and the noise I was hearing... Hopefully replacing the part will address both issues below. Genuine Nissan Part # 14930-JK20E (14930-JK20A, 14930-JK20B, 14930-JK20C)
Looks like I am starting the New Year off with troubleshooting a few issues that may be related. Seems I have a new ticking noise that is louder than usual now after the car has warmed up. It's not always present, seems like every other time and it's most noticeable in the garage. The second problem is car has developed a rough start / idle around the same time. One time it actually quit... This only happens in the morning and starts up normal if I start it when the car is still warm. The weather is colder, but I don't think it's cold enough here to causing it. After spending some time researching, both problems could be caused by a injector going bad. If the injector is leaking, it would flood my G overnight. The fuel has to go somewhere right? My fuel system does hold pressure for a while after the car turns off. But it eventually at 0 psi after seating for a while. Having a fuel pressure gauge comes in extreme handy with troubleshoot crap like this. As a test, I disconnected the fuel line under the rear seat after running for a few minutes to relive pressure last night. This morning I put my G into on position and check the fuel pressure (seating at 50 psi, no leaks). The car started right up, dropped to about 1.1K and idled normally. I am going try it a few more times and do the pedal dancing reset idle, throttle bodies and etc. Possible solutions is replacing the GTR injectors... Another option is adding a fuel return. That would eliminate the pressure build up and would stop it from flooding over night via the injector(s). Any thoughts on how solve this or if experience troubleshooting something like this is welcome.
Here's the ticking noise, seems it's towards the back passenger side.
Made it to the first quarter mile event in Fontana this year… I almost didn’t make it do to my busy work schedule, jet lag and I was exhausted. Since last time I was there, I have added catch cans, a rear diffuser, front lip, rear spoiler and M&H Racemaster drag radials. I was hoping to get a 12.4 and ended up with three passes in the 12.5s, including a 12.500… That’s right, .001 from my goal lol 😊 I wasn’t laughing at the time, it was a little frustrating. My 60 times were not great. They were much better in Irwindale. I may have warned up the tires to much… My G felt sluggish / stuck to the ground until Nitrous hit. Overall, the car was faster, more consistent and stable at higher speeds. I did have some complications that I need to work out with my tuner. My nitrous tune was causing my G to misfire after doing a burn out (without spraying / too rich). I thought I had broken something and pulled off the track. I had to use my NA map on the remaining burnouts after confirming nothing was damaged. That’s why you see me turning my G off and on in the vids.
I did 8 passes, 2 of them I let off mid track (messed up shifting / saving nitrous). One pass I had to abort (complications), the other 4 were ok, could have been better.
Well I ended up not pulling my G apart just yet and hit the drag strip! Seems the misfire on cylinder 1 only happens after sitting over night and the weather has to be colder than 50 degrees. If I run the fuel pump two times before starting, no misfire, just stumbles a bit and idles normal after about 10 seconds. So instead of doing a compression test, I went to the track. I am happy to say its doing just fine running two 12.4s. So low compression in cylinder 1 is not cause of the misfire, I would have had power loss for sure. I am going to just wait until something is more obvious or the misfire becomes more persistent before pulling it apart. Cylinder 1 is closest to the fuel line coming in and there's another feed going to the fuel solenoid. There would be extra air in the line after the fuel drains back into the tank over night. Cylinder 1 would get a slight dry spell possibly. Could be something there, but then again it has e85, gtr injectors, aftermarket fuel pump and 1 step colder plugs. I may have to just live with it and see if it gets better with the weather changes. As long as it's running 12.4s or better I can't complain.
Update: So I know I said I quit myg37... I was working like 14 hours days / 7 days a week there for a while. I'll probably not write as much now. But I'll update my progress as time allows.
I finally figured out what was causing my misfires. I used fuel trims and an intake check value to isolate the problem. Cost me about 200 bucks in parts and a lot of patience to figure it out. The main problem ended up being caused by a leak in the fuel pump assembly, which was causing problem with fuel pressure issue at startup. I had to replace the assembly, intake fuel lines with larger diameter ones and enlarge the orifice some more. Adding just 3 more PSI and making it hold pressure did the trick, go figure. I am sure I would have spent hundreds or thousands at the stealership... They probably would have recommended replacing the engine.
Another note, I weigh my G the other day and it weigh 3,640 pounds (full tank of e85) with what I had in it. Did you know that e85 weighs more than gas? I did some math when I got home and it would weigh about 3,655 with the spare tire, gas and everything in it. I weighed it four years ago and it was 3,700 pound with tanabe medallion mufflers (30 pounds lighter then stock) and Injen SRIs. So all and all my G has dropped 75 pounds. That's not bad considering the weigh I have added (30-40 pounds) with other mods... Race weight will be about 55 pounds lighter with my racing wheels/drag setup, 3/4 tank and Nitrous in it.
Upcoming projects:
1. Racing seats
2. Re-tune - required after changing fuel pressure
3. 100 shot - needs a re-tune anyway...
4. Hitting 11s in the 1/4 mile before end of they year.
Thanks for subscribing! My last post here was before the world completely changed... My priorities in life changed for a bit, sure yours has to, but I am looking forward to hitting the drag strip again later this year (can't wait)! Currently I am working on upgrading my transmission, starting with the valve body. I scored a junkyard transmission with low miles that matched the make/model/manufacture date of my G (what a PITA / waited a long time). I'll be keeping the transmission as a backup for now and will be updating the torque converter later this year/next year. I am hoping the valve body allows me to just leave the car in DS when spraying. Right now it's not able to keep up with the shifting points with Nitrous spraying and I have to shift it manually. Which is fun, but also nerve racking lol. I'll be posting a video in a few weeks when I swap valve bodies and change transmissions fluid.
When you mentioned misfire upon start up I suspected injectors. I've been flowing injectors for a while now and it's surprising to see how uneven injectors even when they were in running vehicles.
The denso injector can be a pain to clean since pintle holes are many but they're small. I can guarantee you those GTR injectors are flowing better than when they were when they gummed up however I'm certain the spray pattern changed with some of that gunk.
Wouldn't hurt to have them checked
When you mentioned misfire upon start up I suspected injectors. I've been flowing injectors for a while now and it's surprising to see how uneven injectors even when they were in running vehicles.
The denso injector can be a pain to clean since pintle holes are many but they're small. I can guarantee you those GTR injectors are flowing better than when they were when they gummed up however I'm certain the spray pattern changed with some of that gunk.
Wouldn't hurt to have them checked
Hey Bull, I appreciate you reaching out. You are right, anything in them would change the spray pattern, volume of gas coming out and etc. I thought for awhile there that i had one stuck open. But pressure testing the fuel system proved otherwise. My car has been starting up just fine for a while. AFRs, STFT and LTFT trims look pretty good as well, running a little rich from recent changes. You just reminded me that I need to get tuned again lol . That kinda fell to the wayside a few months back. If I teardown the top side again, I'll most likely consider getting the injectors cleaned.
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Quick update, I'll be getting my upgraded valve body from IPT Performance on the 8th. John over there had taken it apart, upgraded it and put it back together in 24 hours... Extremely fast turn around time! So for my experience working with John/IPT has been a very positive one. Here's some pictures of my valve body at the shop below. I'll do my best on taking some pics/vids on when I go install it a few weeks from now. It's going to be a messy job for sure lol. I believe I have everything I need get the job done. Including 3 extra large disposable turkey pans... If all goes well, I plan on having IPT upgrade my torque converter to match up with my peak hp/torque curve when nitrous is spraying. That will most likely be a project for later this year or early next year. I really hope the drag strips open up again soon
You're going to need so much fluid
I put a used trans in mine that still had some fluid in there. 8quarts later felt like it needed more. 10 quarts later was better but still shifting funny.
It took 12 total quarts of Matic S. I used a level to the bottom of the pan and this was how I found out the trans was not level the first 2 times.
Good luck!
You're going to need so much fluid
I put a used trans in mine that still had some fluid in there. 8quarts later felt like it needed more. 10 quarts later was better but still shifting funny.
It took 12 total quarts of Matic S. I used a level to the bottom of the pan and this was how I found out the trans was not level the first 2 times.
Good luck!
Hey BULL, the tip about leveling the car helped a lot. I didn't need as much fluid as you did lol. I guess it comes down to how much you let it drain for. 12 quarts is pretty much a flush IMO (15 being a complete flush). I drained about 6.5 liters our of mine. Not sure how much went back in, had some complications and had to start over after nearly being done! I ended up having to follow the last step in the G37 TM Manual, but add an additional .5 liters (4 liters) and let it drain a little until it started dripping (around 3.75 liters went in without dropping the pan again. This saved me another round of doing this, as it would have been .25 liters short if I would have just put in .5 (3.5 liters per TM). If I would have let the car drain overnight instead of 15 mins, I am sure more would have need to go in. Here's the video of all the fun! I just got a tune to revert the line pressure back to stock (was shifting over aggressively / was to stiff after the upgrade.
12-20-2019, 11:53 AM
. Had some other tuff match up last night. Some other cars raced were: Supercharged Chevy SS, two different Helcat / Redeyes, Fifth gen Caramo and Chevy SB Truck. Next year is all about the 1/4 mile track in Fontana. Looking to bust my 12.606 record out there. Shooting for 12.4 @ 115 mphs with my current setup.
