The "4 door Z" build (4DRZ)- 13 G37S 6spd sedan
#1471
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
There was a 400 pound difference from a month ago. Minus 100 pounds of gas is 300 pounds. Less your weight means you pulled another 120 additional pounds out prior to weigh in. How much junk did you have floating around in the car? Did you already ditch the spare/jack?
Still, 3440 is pretty impressive, especially when you consider the likes of Subaru, BMW, AMG etc quoting 70-100 pound weight reductions in optional "competition" trims.
#1472
I'm still confused
There was a 400 pound difference from a month ago. Minus 100 pounds of gas is 300 pounds. Less your weight means you pulled another 120 additional pounds out prior to weigh in. How much junk did you have floating around in the car? Did you already ditch the spare/jack?
Still, 3440 is pretty impressive, especially when you consider the likes of Subaru, BMW, AMG etc quoting 70-100 pound weight reductions in optional "competition" trims.
There was a 400 pound difference from a month ago. Minus 100 pounds of gas is 300 pounds. Less your weight means you pulled another 120 additional pounds out prior to weigh in. How much junk did you have floating around in the car? Did you already ditch the spare/jack?
Still, 3440 is pretty impressive, especially when you consider the likes of Subaru, BMW, AMG etc quoting 70-100 pound weight reductions in optional "competition" trims.
#1473
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
What are the components? Wheels, tires, rotors, exhaust, seats... anything else? Flip side, what have you added, like bracing support?
#1474
I did probably add some weight too, but it was tough to keep track as I went through a lot of parts quickly. I know my oil cooler adds weight, but I probably just reduced weight by going back to the stock radiator. I am sure my intakes, front strut tower brace, front upper control arms, rear diff brace, and maybe the rear camber arms added weight when you add them all up, but it is probably pretty minor. That reminds me that my new front tires just shaved 2 lbs. off the car.
#1475
Registered Member
Your badges are now out of date but I guess they are period correct
https://jalopnik.com/nissans-new-log...ple-1844386176
https://jalopnik.com/nissans-new-log...ple-1844386176
#1476
Your badges are now out of date but I guess they are period correct
https://jalopnik.com/nissans-new-log...ple-1844386176
https://jalopnik.com/nissans-new-log...ple-1844386176
am interested to see the Ariya in person. It seems pretty cool. I keep thinking that the first company that can produce a good looking electric suv with decent range at a decent price should have a hit on their hands.
#1477
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
Oh wow... I do not like this new logo. I much prefer the burger. This thing looks like a waffle iron.
#1480
I think the new Nissan logo looks nice on the new Ariya and I am curious to see it on other models. It seems like the Nissan logos just keep getting bigger and now are almost comically huge. I parked next to an Altima the other day and the Nissan badge on the grille was easily twice as large as mine. A bit much if you ask me.
#1482
I have attempted this project before, but the spray paint fix does not seem to last too long on these frame rails. I work in the shop with a lift quite often so my frame rails probably see a bit more contact with the lift than most.
I knew that hardly anyone would see these so the paint job did not have to be pretty. I thought I would try exterior house paint that already has a primer to see if the paint would be more durable. I also put a few more coats on this time so hopefully, it will last- especially through our salty winters.
Rusted
Sanded
Finished
I knew that hardly anyone would see these so the paint job did not have to be pretty. I thought I would try exterior house paint that already has a primer to see if the paint would be more durable. I also put a few more coats on this time so hopefully, it will last- especially through our salty winters.
Rusted
Sanded
Finished
#1483
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
Research something called POR-15. It comes in gloss white.
I've been noticing similar signs of lift-damage and rust in the same place on my car, although not as bad as your pics here. There's at least one end of one side where I have trouble figuring out where to align the jack.
I've been using a hockey puck on the floor jack cradle for years now, with a 1/4" groove cut down the middle. Whether or not it really matters, it gives me peace of mind. I think with deja vu that you do the same. However, there are always times where a shop puts the car up in the air, and sometimes the tech lifts by the side rails rather than underneath on the frame. Once I was in a shop and I watched them actually crush the plastic skirt that way. I nearly flipped out, but when it came back down it wasn't damaged. Go figure.
I've been noticing similar signs of lift-damage and rust in the same place on my car, although not as bad as your pics here. There's at least one end of one side where I have trouble figuring out where to align the jack.
I've been using a hockey puck on the floor jack cradle for years now, with a 1/4" groove cut down the middle. Whether or not it really matters, it gives me peace of mind. I think with deja vu that you do the same. However, there are always times where a shop puts the car up in the air, and sometimes the tech lifts by the side rails rather than underneath on the frame. Once I was in a shop and I watched them actually crush the plastic skirt that way. I nearly flipped out, but when it came back down it wasn't damaged. Go figure.
#1484
Research something called POR-15. It comes in gloss white.
I've been noticing similar signs of lift-damage and rust in the same place on my car, although not as bad as your pics here. There's at least one end of one side where I have trouble figuring out where to align the jack.
I've been using a hockey puck on the floor jack cradle for years now, with a 1/4" groove cut down the middle. Whether or not it really matters, it gives me peace of mind. I think with deja vu that you do the same. However, there are always times where a shop puts the car up in the air, and sometimes the tech lifts by the side rails rather than underneath on the frame. Once I was in a shop and I watched them actually crush the plastic skirt that way. I nearly flipped out, but when it came back down it wasn't damaged. Go figure.
I've been noticing similar signs of lift-damage and rust in the same place on my car, although not as bad as your pics here. There's at least one end of one side where I have trouble figuring out where to align the jack.
I've been using a hockey puck on the floor jack cradle for years now, with a 1/4" groove cut down the middle. Whether or not it really matters, it gives me peace of mind. I think with deja vu that you do the same. However, there are always times where a shop puts the car up in the air, and sometimes the tech lifts by the side rails rather than underneath on the frame. Once I was in a shop and I watched them actually crush the plastic skirt that way. I nearly flipped out, but when it came back down it wasn't damaged. Go figure.
My jack at home has a flat rubber pad on it, but I use another thicker hockey puck type pad with a groove in it on the rails too. The problem is that I already had my car up on the lift multiple times this year to get new tires, alignment, and to diagnose and fix my rim and radiator. That much contact just wears the paint off. Even when they place the arms of the lift on another part of the chassis the thicker arm that goes under the frame rails usually makes contact first. Unfortunately, the lifts of our shops don't have rubber pads. It is all metal on metal contact.