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Does anyone know the dimensions for the Nissan badge for the trunk of a Nissan Skyline 370GT sedan? The picture below is for the coupe, but I do not know if the badges are different for the sedan or coupe.
62890-1NF1B EMBLEM, RADIATOR GRILLE, SKYLINE.
Rear NISSAN emblem, 84890-JK000
Seems like the emblems for the v36 sedan differ from the v35. What I find funny is that per part# the v35 sedan and v36 coupe share the same emblem.
Hey 4DRZ, I skimmed over your build thread here and I got to hand it to you man your car looks really neat!
I was wondering if you ever plan to make some sort of functional brake duct system from the lower side grilles?
Thanks man! I am really enjoying the car. It might just be my favorite yet. It could use more power (probably true with all cars if you own them long enough), but it is a hell of a lot of fun to fling around town and that is the majority of my driving anyway.
I put Stillen/Z1 brake ducts on my car a few years ago and pulled the fog lights out for the air inlet. I put mesh over the openings to keep out rocks and debris. They work pretty well and seem to hold up a lot better in the winter than the home made kits I used on my other cars that saw the track.
Thanks man! I am really enjoying the car. It might just be my favorite yet. It could use more power (probably true with all cars if you own them long enough), but it is a hell of a lot of fun to fling around town and that is the majority of my driving anyway.
I put Stillen/Z1 brake ducts on my car a few years ago and pulled the fog lights out for the air inlet. I put mesh over the openings to keep out rocks and debris. They work pretty well and seem to hold up a lot better in the winter than the home made kits I used on my other cars that saw the track.
Even though there are some things I dislike about my G, I still agree that these are probably the last fun cars made that tried to make a blast from the past car in the days of growing technology.
Oh wow, that looks really nice! I might eventually install brake ducts in my G as well, but I’m thinking of just using a dremel to make holes in the lower fake side grilles and cut a hole through the bumper sides where that panels insert so it would match the center lower grille while keeping the fog lights intact. Do you know if that would work or would there not be any insert holes to insert the fog light after cutting the bumper?
Even though there are some things I dislike about my G, I still agree that these are probably the last fun cars made that tried to make a blast from the past car in the days of growing technology.
Oh wow, that looks really nice! I might eventually install brake ducts in my G as well, but I’m thinking of just using a dremel to make holes in the lower fake side grilles and cut a hole through the bumper sides where that panels insert so it would match the center lower grille while keeping the fog lights intact. Do you know if that would work or would there not be any insert holes to insert the fog light after cutting the bumper?
Do you mean cutting holes right next to the fog lights or elsewhere? I am having trouble picturing what you are talking about.
Yesterday our state issued a mandatory stay at home order due to the coronavirus for the next month. I get to spend most of the day with my almost 1 1/2 year old daughter and dog as my wife continues to work from home. However, I do get a random hour or two here and there to work on stuff around the house or the car.
Today's project was tracking down the rattle in my driver's door on certain songs and the clang I hear when I shut it with the window down. Neither of these things happened before I had one of our technicians try to find the noise in my car when I went around corners (turned out to be beads that rolled under the carpet). Why the idiot took my door apart I have no idea since he caused it to initially sound much worse and the window was not even lined up correctly. The two issues I have started as soon as he "put the door back together."
This is the backside of the door finisher. The screw circled in yellow on the left was a bit loose. This mounts to the steel insert on the door as well as the spot you use to pull the door closed- by far the most solid connection to the door and at the same time the most difficult attachment point to disconnect due to the trim being so tightly put together. All of the speaker grille screws were a touch loose too. Hopefully, these two items will help reduce the rattle on certain songs.
The bolts circled below mount to the rails that guide the window and they are nearly impossible to reattach because the rails themselves move in and away when they are not bolted. Making things even more difficult is the fact that the tubes housing the wires to power the window are attached very tightly behind this black steel panel so you only have a few inches to squeeze your hand behind the panel to position the rails. Whoever engineered this should be shot.
Does anyone know if the silver dynamat-like material is oem? I was trying to figure out if my tech added this. I can only imagine it would make any rattle worse if I moved it, but then again I duct taped over the white oval shaped hole toward the bottom left of the steel panel because I noticed it had been taped before. Surprisingly, that hole functions as a port for the massive 10" subwoofer in the door. With the right music it is shocking just how much air flows out of that hole as well as the 3 small holes on the bottom of the panel.
Also, if you get curious to see what the subwoofer is comprised of, don't take out the four 8mm bolts securing it to the mount like I did. Instead, remove the subwoofer and mount together by removing the 4 outer 10 mm bolts. The 4 inner 8 mm bolts seemed really tight so I was very careful when I removed them, but still sheared the head right off the one on the top as they appear to be inserted with a loctite type liquid. I tested before and after and no difference in sound quality so apparently 3 bolts is enough to secure it. Big spoiler, the huge woofer is a paper cone like most Bose speakers. Amazing that it sounds so good with a paper cone.
This is a difficult picture to take because the black steel panel does not pull away very far from the door. The bolt circled is the front bolt that attaches the rail to the window and it was loose. I remember reading about this elsewhere on the forum, but it is tough to get to. I also added the circled foam insert as it seemed like this piece would sit very close to the black steel panel and create a vibration.
I am still waiting to hear back from my technician about whether or not he added the silver dynamat-like material and if I should pull it off. I doubt it would help, but I thought there might be a port hole behind it that would help let out some more air and reduce the rattle.
After finally managing to bolt up the steel panel to both bolts on each window rail (good luck), and then forcing it into position and securing it as best as possible to the door, I think that the rattle has been noticeably reduced. I won't know for sure until I get the door completely put back together, but I think I am headed in the right direction.
Yesterday our state issued a mandatory stay at home order due to the coronavirus for the next month. I get to spend most of the day with my almost 1 1/2 year old daughter and dog as my wife continues to work from home. However, I do get a random hour or two here and there to work on stuff around the house or the car.
Today's project was tracking down the rattle in my driver's door on certain songs and the clang I hear when I shut it with the window down. Neither of these things happened before I had one of our technicians try to find the noise in my car when I went around corners (turned out to be beads that rolled under the carpet). Why the idiot took my door apart I have no idea since he caused it to initially sound much worse and the window was not even lined up correctly. The two issues I have started as soon as he "put the door back together."
This is the backside of the door finisher. The screw circled in yellow on the left was a bit loose. This mounts to the steel insert on the door as well as the spot you use to pull the door closed- by far the most solid connection to the door and at the same time the most difficult attachment point to disconnect due to the trim being so tightly put together. All of the speaker grille screws were a touch loose too. Hopefully, these two items will help reduce the rattle on certain songs.
The bolts circled below mount to the rails that guide the window and they are nearly impossible to reattach because the rails themselves move in and away when they are not bolted. Making things even more difficult is the fact that the tubes housing the wires to power the window are attached very tightly behind this black steel panel so you only have a few inches to squeeze your hand behind the panel to position the rails. Whoever engineered this should be shot.
Does anyone know if the silver dynamat-like material is oem? I was trying to figure out if my tech added this. I can only imagine it would make any rattle worse if I moved it, but then again I duct taped over the white oval shaped hole toward the bottom left of the steel panel because I noticed it had been taped before. Surprisingly, that hole functions as a port for the massive 10" subwoofer in the door. With the right music it is shocking just how much air flows out of that hole as well as the 3 small holes on the bottom
Thank you for posting this as I will be tackling this job on all 4 doors in the future. My goal is to wrap that black steel panel in some noise reduction material along with inspecting the inside of the door to take care of that ****ty rattle on specific songs also.
Just a suggestion - you can get adhesive-backed felt at most craft stores, walmart, and of course Amazon. When I was doing stereos last century, we used spray adhesive and regular felt (the boss used pink because then we knew that *we* had done the damping) but the self-adhesive stuff is easier. It will not damp vibrations like dynamat or other HMW materials, but it will damp rattles and surface-on-surface noise transmission. It also contours pretty well.
4DRZ - I was re-inserting your probable profanity into the description of the door panel discoveries...
Thank you for posting this as I will be tackling this job on all 4 doors in the future. My goal is to wrap that black steel panel in some noise reduction material along with inspecting the inside of the door to take care of that ****ty rattle on specific songs also.
Now I know to Take it a door at a time.
Fortunately, the noises are specific to my driver's door that started right after my idiot tech took it apart and it was a sound like something was loose instead of something vibrating against something else. So it "should" be easy to track down. All of my other doors are fine and sound good with really any type of music. The Bose system in this car was probably the most surprising part because I am a bit of an audiophile and I very rarely find a decent factory system. Now, hopefully, the fix is as easy as I thought...
Originally Posted by rotarymike
Just a suggestion - you can get adhesive-backed felt at most craft stores, walmart, and of course Amazon. When I was doing stereos last century, we used spray adhesive and regular felt (the boss used pink because then we knew that *we* had done the damping) but the self-adhesive stuff is easier. It will not damp vibrations like dynamat or other HMW materials, but it will damp rattles and surface-on-surface noise transmission. It also contours pretty well.
4DRZ - I was re-inserting your probable profanity into the description of the door panel discoveries...
Thanks, that's a good idea. The rattle I am getting is something loose within the black panel as I have not reattached the finishing interior door panel yet. It is already significantly better and I am hoping the last door panel piece will silence what little unwanted noise there is now.
Are you referring to my never ending journey to find the noise in my car when I went around corners? That was an adventure.
So my plans worked to get rid of the rattle in the driver's door. The stereo sounds so much better now and I no longer have to skip tracks. Very happy this worked since I know how difficult it can be to track these things down.
For those of you wondering, the silver dynamat-like material is from the factory. I opened up the passenger side just enough to see it in both places exactly the same as the driver's side. For those of you planning to do this in the future (BULL), please ask me for a few tips as there are a few tricks to getting everything apart without breaking anything.
Speaking of breaking things, I noticed that when my mechanic took apart my door a few times he must have put it back together pretty hastily because there were at least two pop clips that were completely broken. Fortunately, everything still sounds good with the stereo until I can get back into work to pick up some replacements.
Onto my next project...
These plastic razor blades sure make it a lot easier to remove adhesive. Nice!
Taking the door apart and tightening everything up also got rid of the "thunk" I heard when I would close the door with the window down. That really made the car sound cheap. So glad I fixed all of this and I got everything right the first time. Today is a good day.
So with my plan to swap all the badges on the car over to Nissan Skyline 370GT badges, my 4DR Z CAR license plates no longer make sense to me. With manual transmissions becoming more and more rare and Car and Driver's campaign to "save the manuals," I thought I would choose a plate along those lines. My top 3 choices in this order are SAV D 6MT, 6MT 4 ME, and SV D MNLS. Let me know what you think or if you have other ideas. (NISMO, SAVE 6MT, 6MT, SKYLINE, and 370GT are already taken in WI)
Here is the list of other plate ideas that did not make the cut: SAV 6MT, SAV MNLS, HEEL TOE, DBL CLCH, LF FT FUN, L LEG DAY, LEG DAY, CLCH MSL, LF FT BRK, L8 APEX, HS CLCH, DN STEAL, DNT STEL, HOO HA, YEE HA, HAS 6MT, 6MT EQUP, 6MT EQPD, MT EQUIP, MT EQPD, NIZMO, NISSAN, MT YEE HA, MT YIPEE, 6MT YIPE, 6MT YEEE, 6MT YEA, BOO YA MT, MT BOO YA, GET A 6MT, 6MT 4 FUN, SAV D MT, 6MT DRVR, DRIV 6MT, DRV 6MT, DRIVE MT, IT HAS MT, 6MT HERE, 6MT INSD, 6MT YES, YES 6MT
4DRZ - Did you swap out the Tein Basis or still using them? After reading almost every thread on them I am torn between the basis street z and the flex z. I have a 12' 6MT sedan and use it as a daily. I fear that the basis will be too 'soft' and that is why I am leaning towards the flex.... Just wanted to see what you decided on as you wanted to replace the basis. Great Build btw
03-13-2020, 11:44 AM
