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Wow. Seems like it was just yesterday you were shopping tires.
Those inside edges sure have taken a beating.
I have been shopping for replacements for these recently, but these tires lasted me about 3 years with quite a few track days. The inside edges got cupped on 2 separate years due to too much negative camber. My fix was to put them on the rear and peel out to level off the cupping. It worked for a while, but I knew it would eventually catch up with me.
Any mods you regret specifically for driving on the road? Since my goals are similar to what yours were, I just don't want to destroy too much street-ability.
Any mods you regret specifically for driving on the road? Since my goals are similar to what yours were, I just don't want to destroy too much street-ability.
Great question. The short answer is no because I built it the way I did to perform well on street and track. If I were to really nit pick everything and I were just going to use it on the street I probably would have gone with slightly less aggressive tires. I might have just done springs instead of the coilovers, but they do ride really well on 95% of streets. Finally, I might have skipped the rear gears as it definitely spins the tires more freely now and on rare occasion there is more NVH when decelerating. I really tried to maximize performance without giving up anything to street driving because I knew that the car would spend most of its time on the street.
The 2pc. front rotors and Sparco seats are probably unnecessary for the street, but they sure are comfortable. I also would have skipped the master cylinder brace because it is useless and nearly impossible to install.
Not the most exciting of mods here, but I really hope this will be the last time I replace resistors for the side air bag sensors since I have Sparco seats without airbags. I have taken recommendations from everyone on this website who has replaced their front seats, but I can guarantee you that 4.7 ohm, 2.2 ohm 1/2 watt, and 2.2 ohm 2 watt resistors only fool the air bag sensors in a 2013 G37S for a few months. Bride makes an "air bag seat canceller," but they are way more expensive than normal resistors. I noticed that they use a 2 ohm part so I thought I would try these 2 ohm 2 watt resistors before dropping $40 on the Bride ones. My hope is that these will fix my air bag light for good.
So it's more that your SRS computer doesn't like them or that they short or open after time?
You know, I probably have a leftover airbag from my RX8 that you could have the ignitor portion of. As in just the squib, not the charge or bag.
Yes, I think either the computer in the car realizes that the resistor is not the actual airbag or the resistors are only good for a short period of time. I appreciate the offer for the airbag, but I'm not sure that would fix it either.
Well after 46,400 miles my original front brake pads started making the light squealing noise like the wear indicators are starting to make contact. I picked up some of the Akebono ceramic pads since they are listed as being extremely low dust on the Tire Rack site and they are also ridiculously cheap. $121 for a full set!?! I would imagine these are the pads that came on the car, but I will take a closer look once I replace them this weekend.
Unless it's when you are replacing brake fluid, yeah. It's strange you don't like it, most people swear by it. You got a pretty good "track" record though .
Unless it's when you are replacing brake fluid, yeah. It's strange you don't like it, most people swear by it. You got a pretty good "track" record though .
Interesting thoughts on the gearing.
I have yet to meet anyone who "swears" by a master cylinder brace in our cars. Everyone I have talked to about it just complains about how impossible it is to install unless you were born with miniature hands or double jointed fingers.
I installed the brake pads today and they are definitely not the same as stock. They have different part numbers on them and a slightly different pad shape. I am pretty sure the stock pads are semi-metallic so the switch to ceramic will be nice. Hopefully, this means that I will drastically reduce the rail dust on my paint.
The installation was pretty straight forward, but the front pistons do take a bit more effort than expected to compress for the new pads if your old pads are worn down to the indicators. When you do this, be sure to take the extra brake fluid out of the reservoir on the master cylinder after each front caliper because those large pistons displace a lot of fluid.
The new pads are definitely quieter, but do give up a touch of initial bite- both to be expected with the switch to ceramic. However, the calipers are such overkill for the street that a slightly firmer touch on the brake pedal should equal or better stopping distances.The stock pads were pretty low dust, but these should be better and less rail dust on the paint would be great.
Just a "slight" difference in pad thickness.
The pads come with these tiny samples of brake grease. Of course I applied it with my finger on the first 3 calipers before remembering that I already had some much better grease on the shelf with a built in brush. Doh!
I have been meaning to order these Skyline kick plates for my car for a while and finally got around to doing it. I am still on the fence about swapping over the rest of the badges on the car to Skyline like the front grille, trunk, and steering wheel. Decisions, decisions...
10-31-2019, 09:23 AM
Seems like it was just yesterday you were shopping tires.
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