The "4 door Z" build (4DRZ)- 13 G37S 6spd sedan
#1156
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
How about gloss black on the calipers with copper lettering?(this would go good with the blue to IMO) ...I have done two iterations of gloss black with copper lettering so far (first with "Akebono" lettering, then with "infiniti" lettering) and havent gotten tired of it yet....given your history with discolouring the calipers I feel like yours will end up this colour anyways even if you go with white lettering:P
#1157
How about gloss black on the calipers with copper lettering?(this would go good with the blue to IMO) ...I have done two iterations of gloss black with copper lettering so far (first with "Akebono" lettering, then with "infiniti" lettering) and havent gotten tired of it yet....given your history with discolouring the calipers I feel like yours will end up this colour anyways even if you go with white lettering:P
#1158
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Edit: Found pics
heres a kinda fuzzy pic of the the akebono lettering in copper: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...ml#post4029730
and here's a pic with the "infiniti" lettering in copper: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...today-456.html
Last edited by Baadnewsburr; 09-04-2019 at 03:50 PM.
#1160
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
not sure if you posted a pic (pictures posted in the last 24 hours are not loading for me right now for some reason)...either way it is the one in the first link I posted (post # 7317)...
btw looking back at my old pictures I just realized, before I had the copper Akebono lettering, I had white "infiniti" lettering on my black calipers...thinking about it, I remember I changed the colour cause the white was just too bland...I like an understated look on the car but it was just too bland in execution I think...
btw looking back at my old pictures I just realized, before I had the copper Akebono lettering, I had white "infiniti" lettering on my black calipers...thinking about it, I remember I changed the colour cause the white was just too bland...I like an understated look on the car but it was just too bland in execution I think...
#1161
not sure if you posted a pic (pictures posted in the last 24 hours are not loading for me right now for some reason)...either way it is the one in the first link I posted (post # 7317)...
btw looking back at my old pictures I just realized, before I had the copper Akebono lettering, I had white "infiniti" lettering on my black calipers...thinking about it, I remember I changed the colour cause the white was just too bland...I like an understated look on the car but it was just too bland in execution I think...
btw looking back at my old pictures I just realized, before I had the copper Akebono lettering, I had white "infiniti" lettering on my black calipers...thinking about it, I remember I changed the colour cause the white was just too bland...I like an understated look on the car but it was just too bland in execution I think...
#1162
The other night I was gung ho about painting the hats and centers of my brake rotors black with high temp paint because the rust/discoloration was bothering me. I got the rear rotors off, probably the 1st time they had ever been off, and wow did they not want to move initially. I took off one of the front rotors and it dawned on me that I might as well just wait a little bit to get the 2pc. rear rotors and maybe eventually get a rebuild kit for my fronts instead of paint them. I put everything back together, but noticed a few things that needed my attention in the process.
If you ever try to take off your rear calipers be prepared for the bottom bolt to be a real pain. There is not enough room to get an impact wrench or even a socket on that bolt due to the proximity of the rear camber arm. The hub itself and the brake caliper are also in the way so you can only get about 1/8 of a turn at a time with a closed end wrench. Of course the largest ratcheting closed end wrench I had was one size too small. It is not impossible to get off, but it is quite difficult to break loose due to the close quarters.
I was having an issue with the bolts that connect the Z1 control arms to the chassis coming loose. I thought it was from the heim joints just transferring too much vibration to the bolts and working their way loose. Actually, I think I may have discovered the root of the problem in the picture below this one.
The nut on the driver's side end link connecting to the front sway bar was actually coming loose?!? Fortunately, I believe it may be a lock nut as it was not actually loose, but threads were showing on the wrong side of the nut. This was causing the clunking noise I was hearing and may be the root of the control arm bolts coming loose on the driver's side. Now that I fixed this the alignment is back in spec too. Crazy how much difference one little nut makes.
The other discovery I made was that my front tires are wearing much quicker on the inside than I thought. If you look closely you can actually see the next layer of rubber showing through. I was really hoping to make it through the rest of this year on these tires before it gets too cold in the end of October/early November and I switch over to snow tires. Now I am not so sure. The reason they are worn on the inside is that I had too much negative camber before I installed the camber arms. I put these tires on the rear and spun them a few times at the end of the last two seasons to get rid of the cupping, but clearly that has finally taken its toll.
So I have been researching new front tires and it looks like everything else that is under Tire Rack's Extreme Performance summer in 245/40/19 is going to be a significant drop in performance on track. I would be willing to give up a little track performance for some increased quiet/comfort on the street, but that doesn't look like an option. This forces me into a bit of a dilemma. Get more of the same tires or go down to some really nice Max performance tires and give up on track days... There is really only 1 other track I want to drive, but it seems dumb to give up on track days with my vented hood coming specifically for track days. The other side of the coin is that with my 10 month old daughter, time and money for track days is now harder to come by. Decisions, decisions.
The other reason I want to wait until the spring is that I want to see some reviews of these new Yokohama Advan Apex V601 tires. These look like they will be the new king of street tires.
If you ever try to take off your rear calipers be prepared for the bottom bolt to be a real pain. There is not enough room to get an impact wrench or even a socket on that bolt due to the proximity of the rear camber arm. The hub itself and the brake caliper are also in the way so you can only get about 1/8 of a turn at a time with a closed end wrench. Of course the largest ratcheting closed end wrench I had was one size too small. It is not impossible to get off, but it is quite difficult to break loose due to the close quarters.
I was having an issue with the bolts that connect the Z1 control arms to the chassis coming loose. I thought it was from the heim joints just transferring too much vibration to the bolts and working their way loose. Actually, I think I may have discovered the root of the problem in the picture below this one.
The nut on the driver's side end link connecting to the front sway bar was actually coming loose?!? Fortunately, I believe it may be a lock nut as it was not actually loose, but threads were showing on the wrong side of the nut. This was causing the clunking noise I was hearing and may be the root of the control arm bolts coming loose on the driver's side. Now that I fixed this the alignment is back in spec too. Crazy how much difference one little nut makes.
The other discovery I made was that my front tires are wearing much quicker on the inside than I thought. If you look closely you can actually see the next layer of rubber showing through. I was really hoping to make it through the rest of this year on these tires before it gets too cold in the end of October/early November and I switch over to snow tires. Now I am not so sure. The reason they are worn on the inside is that I had too much negative camber before I installed the camber arms. I put these tires on the rear and spun them a few times at the end of the last two seasons to get rid of the cupping, but clearly that has finally taken its toll.
So I have been researching new front tires and it looks like everything else that is under Tire Rack's Extreme Performance summer in 245/40/19 is going to be a significant drop in performance on track. I would be willing to give up a little track performance for some increased quiet/comfort on the street, but that doesn't look like an option. This forces me into a bit of a dilemma. Get more of the same tires or go down to some really nice Max performance tires and give up on track days... There is really only 1 other track I want to drive, but it seems dumb to give up on track days with my vented hood coming specifically for track days. The other side of the coin is that with my 10 month old daughter, time and money for track days is now harder to come by. Decisions, decisions.
The other reason I want to wait until the spring is that I want to see some reviews of these new Yokohama Advan Apex V601 tires. These look like they will be the new king of street tires.
#1163
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
Those tires are done. Always a shock when you know you have some tread depth, but the inside edge is trashed. I went through that same thing a few years ago just before winter. And I drove very casually that last month or two before swapping for snow. Drive safely, OP.
The tread on the Yokohama reminds me a lot of the Michelin PSS.
I have no advice about your priorities with money, family, car... there is no wrong answer.
The tread on the Yokohama reminds me a lot of the Michelin PSS.
I have no advice about your priorities with money, family, car... there is no wrong answer.
The following 2 users liked this post by Rochester:
jpowersjr2 (09-10-2019),
ZontheRocks (09-18-2019)
#1164
Those tires are done. Always a shock when you know you have some tread depth, but the inside edge is trashed. I went through that same thing a few years ago just before winter. And I drove very casually that last month or two before swapping for snow. Drive safely, OP.
The tread on the Yokohama reminds me a lot of the Michelin PSS.
I have no advice about your priorities with money, family, car... there is no wrong answer.
The tread on the Yokohama reminds me a lot of the Michelin PSS.
I have no advice about your priorities with money, family, car... there is no wrong answer.
The tread pattern on the Yokos is similar to the Michelin, but without all the extra siping and a softer compound it should provide more grip. Only time will tell once the reviews start coming in.
The following users liked this post:
4DRZ (09-12-2019)
#1166
Thanks! That is exactly what I am looking for. My initial thought is that I like the one on the left with just the side vent slats left in carbon, but maybe it is too much carbon? Wow, this is going to be a tough decision. Anybody else have a preference?
#1168
I agree. I think it does look better than the picture on the right where everything is black for the side vents. I think I may even like the picture on the left better than the original where the vents are white. It is definitely more aggressive. Just trying to decide if it is too much. Thanks for your input.
#1169
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
I agree. I think it does look better than the picture on the right where everything is black for the side vents. I think I may even like the picture on the left better than the original where the vents are white. It is definitely more aggressive. Just trying to decide if it is too much. Thanks for your input.