The "4 door Z" build (4DRZ)- 13 G37S 6spd sedan
#916
All of the joints thread in and out and have lock nuts behind them to hold them in place. If you look close at the back of the 1st picture you can see the silver lock nuts for the arms that adjust caster. The lock nut for the ball joint that adjusts camber is behind it and not visible in the pics.
#919
The caster requires unbolting one of the rear ball joints (depending on which way you are trying to change it). Some much more expensive adjustable control arms allow you to adjust this without having to unbolt the ball joint, but you usually still have to unbolt a few other attachment points to adjust. I can see how that could possibly save time if you were at the track and were changing the alignment there and you were in a hurry between sessions. Otherwise, the time saving is pretty negligible. Once I get this set, I really don't plan to change it.
#920
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
When I installed my arms for the first time I thought i was being smart and preset the camber to positive Max and when I tried to get the ball joint rod? into the lower arm hole? For the life of me couldn't get it in. I sat there pounding away wasting my time and it wouldn't go in. Then I realized the only way to get it in was either move the camber plate to the stock position or remove plate from camber arm and it slipped right in. I chose to make life easier and remove plate from arm.
but urs the ball joint went in when it was out of stock range?
but urs the ball joint went in when it was out of stock range?
#923
When I installed my arms for the first time I thought i was being smart and preset the camber to positive Max and when I tried to get the ball joint rod? into the lower arm hole? For the life of me couldn't get it in. I sat there pounding away wasting my time and it wouldn't go in. Then I realized the only way to get it in was either move the camber plate to the stock position or remove plate from camber arm and it slipped right in. I chose to make life easier and remove plate from arm.
but urs the ball joint went in when it was out of stock range?
but urs the ball joint went in when it was out of stock range?
#924
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
actually it was easier to get the bolts out since i was able to bang it out using a screw driver. i was able to manipulate the spring a little by raising the spring up and down to make what room i could. i was kinda lucky maybe the bolt was just touching the spring coil just a little. getting the bolt back in was a lot harder i had to bang bolt back in, scratch up the coil, and touch up painted where ever i scratched.
#925
actually it was easier to get the bolts out since i was able to bang it out using a screw driver. i was able to manipulate the spring a little by raising the spring up and down to make what room i could. i was kinda lucky maybe the bolt was just touching the spring coil just a little. getting the bolt back in was a lot harder i had to bang bolt back in, scratch up the coil, and touch up painted where ever i scratched.
#926
Registered Member
so underneath the rubber shield thats over the ball joint is a ring around the ball joint (hopefully I'm making sense). On the installation sheet that you get from Z1 its says how the ring around the ball joint should properly sit. The ring should sit vertically on the ball joint according to the Z1 manual. Im having a hard time adjusting that ring to the proper specs that Z1 calls for. Do I need to adjust the caster as well in order to get that ring vertically to the balljoint ?
#927
so underneath the rubber shield thats over the ball joint is a ring around the ball joint (hopefully I'm making sense). On the installation sheet that you get from Z1 its says how the ring around the ball joint should properly sit. The ring should sit vertically on the ball joint according to the Z1 manual. Im having a hard time adjusting that ring to the proper specs that Z1 calls for. Do I need to adjust the caster as well in order to get that ring vertically to the balljoint ?
#930
I bolted up my new hyper black Drag DR-73 winter wheels and Blizzak WS-80 tires from Discount Tire Direct. Wow, are they close to the front calipers. You cannot fit a fingernail between them, but a sheet of paper clears the gap. I ordered 3mm spacers, but then took them off and they seem to work ok without them.
The tires are extremely soft, to the point that the ride is actually noticeably smoother. The tread blocks are pretty squirmy. You can shimmy the steering wheel left and right and get the car to move side to side just from the tire squirm. I feel like I am driving a Jeep Wrangler with big knobby tires. They are also so soft that I can get the traction light to come on in the first 5 gears when accelerating on the highway. Now I am just looking forward to a snow storm to see if they handle any better than the old blizzak tires.
The tires are extremely soft, to the point that the ride is actually noticeably smoother. The tread blocks are pretty squirmy. You can shimmy the steering wheel left and right and get the car to move side to side just from the tire squirm. I feel like I am driving a Jeep Wrangler with big knobby tires. They are also so soft that I can get the traction light to come on in the first 5 gears when accelerating on the highway. Now I am just looking forward to a snow storm to see if they handle any better than the old blizzak tires.
Last edited by 4DRZ; 11-27-2018 at 10:25 AM.