dtea54

Just go with the eibachs or even coils and spc f+r camber rear endlinks and sways. I know it might stupid since i suggested them but you could leave it at the highest setting. But in your case i would definetly choose the eibach +koni yellows+swaybars and f+r endlinks. I would also look at swift springs to the drop is around 1.0 - 0.8 or 6 in the front and the same with the rears to. Plus you get to choose your own spring rate to your taste which is a plus. You could try koni hsds to.

GW330

iTrader: (1)

You can also do the least lowering springs up front and cut the rear spring mount to get that 0.3 in drop in the rear. Not the cleanest wat to do it but it works. I have tannabe springs upfront (1 inch drop) in my coupe and stock sport springs in the rear, the car drives great. No camber kit needed. Since it is a relatively inexpensive mod you can easily go back to stock if you dont like the stance or cant get it aligned the way you desire. Buy used springs of your choice and the rubber mounts Part Number: 55050AL500 are cheap also.


Rear spring mount mod
DIY: Cutting Rear Springmount aka "the springmount mod" - Page 3 - G35Driver

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

You could also flip the front mount on the Konis to raise the front a bit.

Another thing to consider is coupe and/or 370 OE springs.

I think, and this is just my opinion, is that a lot of the 'bottoming out' people complain about is because of the stock dampers. I haven't bottomed out or scraped once since I put on Koni Yellows and Swifts

alfredo24pr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the info. I'm leaning towards the Eibach for now, and hoping that I don't scrape and will not require a camber kit.

If the drop causes me to scrape too much, I will look into spring mounts for a slight lift.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

ARK + Drop + PR roads...

Should be fun. GL

Sway_NV

iTrader: (3)

You really should change the shocks when you change the springs. OEM shocks aren't made to be under the constant stress/compression that lowering springs put on them. I know it's extra $$$ but it will help prevent the things you seem worried about. Just my .02

alfredo24pr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. lol

That is also a point that I was concerned about.

You know, I don't really mind the front gap that much that I have to order lowering springs. I just want a slight drop, but it's nothing that I see my car and say: "I NEED to drop it ASAP".

That being said, I will take my time about the final decision.

Sway_NV

iTrader: (3)

^^^ smart choice.

alfredo24pr

iTrader: (1)

Washed my car and took a small video showing off the wheels.

Sorry for shakiness. Had to edit with music in it, since there was a lot of background noise.

alfredo24pr

iTrader: (1)

Finally...after 2 months, the NST pulleys found their way home.

G37Genova

Lets she these gains!!!!!!!1

Sway_NV

iTrader: (3)

Curious about gains for the pulleys as well...

alfredo24pr

iTrader: (1)

lol.

I still have to take it to the dyno before getting the pulleys installed, since I changed to lighter wheels.

Also, had a problem with my FI RHFC, so that is setting me back atm :/

Sway_NV

iTrader: (3)

Oh? What kind of problems with the rhfc? They're on my mod list, anything I need to know?

alfredo24pr

iTrader: (1)

Get some extra hangers in to support the weight of the RHFC. There is a bracket on the stock cats that you can't reuse in the RHFC install. This thing:

(credit to Rochester for the pic)