Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Lego, this is not at all my area of expertise, however if you lower a car without a camber kit, you will introduce negative camber, meaning the top of the wheel will turn into the car.

I do know that much. As for the nuances of how much negative camber, and the consequences for alignment and tire wear... I suspect it's not good, but like I said, not my area of expertise.

GW330

iTrader: (1)

Id say give it a mild drop (Tanabe?) with lowering springs to see how it affects the poke. It will affect the poke because it will increase the negative camber thus getting the uper lip more tucked in. Get it aligned, you said you dont put a lot of miles on the car so the tires should last you a good amount of time. I would be skeptical two since the tires you mounted are really expensive. The car will also look a lot better lowered now that you have the rims.

Did you specify to VOSSEN that you didn't want to lower the car? They definitely gave you the wrong wheel offsets for the rears. They are expensive wheels. Hope you get the issue resolved, you definitely never cut corners when it comes to cost, it sucks it didnt go the way you planned.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

John, this might ease your fears, my setup is 10" +45 so you're outside of mine by 3mm, then I put 295s on so I'm 20mm wider (which would be 10mm on each side of the wheel) for a net +7mm I'm poking more than you. And as you've seen w/ my zero gap drop I'm about 3mm inside the inner fender roll. If you want I can raise my car to stock height and shoot a pick so you'll see how much poke I have (it'll be quite a bit more than yours). When I got the tires/wheels and put them on I was terrified as I lowered the jack, the tires were out SO far, but they just arced right inside the fender like magic I'm at better than stock camber at -1.1 degrees so I'm running a real straight setup (with SPC camber arms and toe).

*deleted pics now that you saw them, no need to sidetrack your build any more than has already been done*

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

You kidding? That's a huge amount of work spinning your CO's for me just to take a picture.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

No I wouldn't be adjusting my coils, just lifting it off compression

twin_snails

iTrader: (2)

I hear you on that. I wouldn't have known that was available, but like John, I was so displeased with the poke, I asked my the rep at Element if there was anything they could do. For me, it was an enormous deal...so much so that it was coming down to selling the wheels and putting the stock ones back on because of how displeased I was with the poke. I spent a year researching what wheels I wanted and to have that much intellectual, and emotional capital sunk into the wheels, I wanted them right. So I feel right where you're coming from my friend.

It is computer controlled milling to make sure everything is square and true. They basically put the wheel in a CNC machine and like a plunge router, the computer controls the removal of 5mm of aluminum. It was just right and the poke was gone. I did have to pay the shipping back to Arizona but I thought, eh, a couple bucks vs poke. Couple bucks for shipping it is.

twin_snails

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I thought I remembered him not wanting to lower. I was in the same boat for a while. I've recently thought about Swifts to go over my Koni Yellow's but that was before the Infiniti dealer gave me a Q50 loaner (full, detailed review will be coming) yesterday (despite that I am OOW) and had my car in for 7AT flush, power steering flush, TCM update, oil change, etc. It's making me reconsider how many more mods I do.

Hopefully N4S has the capability to do the decking. If not, you might want to check with getyourwheels.com because they seem to do quite a bit of custom wheel work.

Let us know how it works out!

Cheers,
Matt

twin_snails

iTrader: (2)

You guys are what makes this forum great. myg37.com members are always the epitome of awesome because of the willingness to help and go out of their way to assist. Bravo!

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

There does seem to be a good group of member here lately. You get out of it what you put into it, I suppose.

twin_snails

iTrader: (2)

Very true.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

So... Swift RWD sedan springs? 1.2" drop in the front, and 0.8" drop in the rear. Certainly anyone who's been reading this forum for the last couple of years can't help but notice how well reviewed Swift Springs are. An approx -1.1 camber, not so much as to need correction with a camber kit, right? Hmm.

Doesn't mean I can't move into CO's in the future.

I'm still reeling at the realization that I'm considering this. LOL@me

twin_snails

iTrader: (2)

^^^
That is my understanding on the Swifts. Oddly enough, if I do go Swifts, that will probably put me back at just a tad less than stock ride height. Going to Koni Yellow struts inexplicably made my ride height about 3/4" higher. But the whole Q50 loaner thing yesterday could throw a wrench in my future mods. Based on all I've heard, I wanted to know what it was like first hand.

I researched coils extensively but from everything I found, I wasn't going to be able to remain very close to stock ride height, but now I've reconsidered my position on lowering. Eh, we'll see.

Bwahahaha! LOL @ you reeling that you're considering it!

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

The Koni & H&R combo for Infiniti is available overseas but this is the closest I could find in the US.
NISSAN 370Z 08-13 Coupe & Roadster 1140-9649
Part # for the Infiniti application is #1140-9589

RexHavoc

iTrader: (7)

I hear very good things about Adam Race Consulting's prices. I spent some time reviewing things with him not too long ago and I can say he was very willing to answer questions and patient with me through the dozens I asked. He spent a couple days trying to ensure there wasn't a Koni available for me that he was missing. He may even be able to provide some validation on Brad's thought of the tires sucking in with a slight drop.

As far as CNC, I can't speak to how it would impact the Vossen. I can tell you that I've CNC'd several parts for my custom 1911 with no issues at all. Okay, I wasn't allowed to run or program the machine but I got to turn it in and that counts doesn't it? Should come out perfectly true and 5mm doesn't "sound" like too much to where it would adversely impact the strength of the rim.

I'm thinking that trying springs or springs/struts, or heck even diving in with coil overs is probably the way I would go. Especially if you were leaning on going that route anyway albeit in 2018.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Ah. You mean lifting the whole rear end back up to stock height with a hydrolic floor jack? And in doing so, you expect to see the rear top-of-wheel slowly poke out from the fender? That would be a fascinating video, no doubt.

The Tanabe NF210 claim the front drops 1.0" and the rears drop 1.3". That seems backwards.

The Swift RWD Sedan Springs claim the front drops 1.2" and the rears drop 0.8". That seems appropriate.