Rochester's new G
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Rochester (08-05-2024)
08-17-2024, 08:34 PM
#3018
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Undertray Bolts
For whatever reason, my car came from the factory with one of those engine bay undertrays that had no access panel for the oil change. 
That meant for about 8 years, every time I changed my oil, the entire damn tray had to get removed. Aside from being a PITA, after a few years I noticed the undertray bolts were getting really corroded. To combat that problem, every time I changed the oil I would soak the bolts in penetrating oil. And that worked well enough to keep them OK until the next time around.
Then four years ago I replaced that old plastic tray with a nice, two-piece unit from TBW. And at the time I bought all new bolt hardware, because why not? The bolt kit is very inexpensive.
Since then, it's been a rare occasion to remove the entire tray. But removal or not, these new bolts are corroded now too. So I've been thinking of replacing them with stainless steel.
The OEM bolts are M6 dog-point hex heads with a loose washer. I was thinking of using something like this. I like the serrated flange design:
And today I was thinking about using dress-up fender washers, but worry about them shaking loose. If it weren't for that, it would look pretty damn cool (to no one but me and the occasional mechanic).
Anybody have an opinion?
That meant for about 8 years, every time I changed my oil, the entire damn tray had to get removed. Aside from being a PITA, after a few years I noticed the undertray bolts were getting really corroded. To combat that problem, every time I changed the oil I would soak the bolts in penetrating oil. And that worked well enough to keep them OK until the next time around.Then four years ago I replaced that old plastic tray with a nice, two-piece unit from TBW. And at the time I bought all new bolt hardware, because why not? The bolt kit is very inexpensive.
Since then, it's been a rare occasion to remove the entire tray. But removal or not, these new bolts are corroded now too. So I've been thinking of replacing them with stainless steel.
The OEM bolts are M6 dog-point hex heads with a loose washer. I was thinking of using something like this. I like the serrated flange design:
And today I was thinking about using dress-up fender washers, but worry about them shaking loose. If it weren't for that, it would look pretty damn cool (to no one but me and the occasional mechanic).
Anybody have an opinion?
08-19-2024, 03:56 PM
#3021
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iTrader: (9)
After running this idea around in my head for a bit, now I'm thinking of M6 stainless steel, serrated flange head hex bolts, with nylon washers. The serrated flange heads should grab well enough against the nylon washers so that I can torque them down and not worry about them backing off. And the nylon washers would dampen resonance. And neither would corrode.
I mean, not-an-engineer, but this is making more sense the more I consider it.
I mean, not-an-engineer, but this is making more sense the more I consider it.
08-27-2024, 08:31 AM
#3023
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
After running this idea around in my head for a bit, now I'm thinking of M6 stainless steel, serrated flange head hex bolts, with nylon washers. The serrated flange heads should grab well enough against the nylon washers so that I can torque them down and not worry about them backing off. And the nylon washers would dampen resonance. And neither would corrode.
I mean, not-an-engineer, but this is making more sense the more I consider it.
I mean, not-an-engineer, but this is making more sense the more I consider it.
We'll see how it works out.
08-27-2024, 10:10 AM
#3024
Moderador
Not much that could go wrong in this scenario other than over-torqueing the bolt, wearing the slot by using an used hex bit or attempt to remove a bolt with dirt inside of the hex.
08-28-2024, 12:33 PM
#3025
Registered Member
For whatever reason, my car came from the factory with one of those engine bay undertrays that had no access panel for the oil change. That meant for about 8 years, every time I changed my oil, the entire damn tray had to get removed. Aside from being a PITA, after a few years I noticed the undertray bolts were getting really corroded. To combat that problem, every time I changed the oil I would soak the bolts in penetrating oil. And that worked well enough to keep them OK until the next time around.
Then four years ago I replaced that old plastic tray with a nice, two-piece unit from TBW. And at the time I bought all new bolt hardware, because why not? The bolt kit is very inexpensive.
Since then, it's been a rare occasion to remove the entire tray. But removal or not, these new bolts are corroded now too. So I've been thinking of replacing them with stainless steel.
The OEM bolts are M6 dog-point hex heads with a loose washer. I was thinking of using something like this. I like the serrated flange design: https://www.amazon.com/Flanged-Hexag...G7L/ref=sr_1_6
And today I was thinking about using dress-up fender washers, but worry about them shaking loose. If it weren't for that, it would look pretty damn cool (to no one but me and the occasional mechanic).
Anybody have an opinion?
That meant for about 8 years, every time I changed my oil, the entire damn tray had to get removed. Aside from being a PITA, after a few years I noticed the undertray bolts were getting really corroded. To combat that problem, every time I changed the oil I would soak the bolts in penetrating oil. And that worked well enough to keep them OK until the next time around.Then four years ago I replaced that old plastic tray with a nice, two-piece unit from TBW. And at the time I bought all new bolt hardware, because why not? The bolt kit is very inexpensive.
Since then, it's been a rare occasion to remove the entire tray. But removal or not, these new bolts are corroded now too. So I've been thinking of replacing them with stainless steel.
The OEM bolts are M6 dog-point hex heads with a loose washer. I was thinking of using something like this. I like the serrated flange design: https://www.amazon.com/Flanged-Hexag...G7L/ref=sr_1_6
And today I was thinking about using dress-up fender washers, but worry about them shaking loose. If it weren't for that, it would look pretty damn cool (to no one but me and the occasional mechanic).
Anybody have an opinion?
08-28-2024, 01:00 PM
#3026
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
It was 4 years ago now, and like you at the time my OEM under shroud was in sad shape. Something had ripped it bad once... I think it was the one and only one time it was pulled up on a flat bed. Anyway, I had it all stitched together with zip ties like some kind of Frankenstein project.
08-28-2024, 02:49 PM
#3028
Registered Member
No reason I can recall in choosing the TBW over Z1.
It was 4 years ago now, and like you at the time my OEM under shroud was in sad shape. Something had ripped it bad once... I think it was the one and only one time it was pulled up on a flat bed. Anyway, I had it all stitched together with zip ties like some kind of Frankenstein project.
It was 4 years ago now, and like you at the time my OEM under shroud was in sad shape. Something had ripped it bad once... I think it was the one and only one time it was pulled up on a flat bed. Anyway, I had it all stitched together with zip ties like some kind of Frankenstein project.
08-28-2024, 02:59 PM
#3029
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And the Z1 is $169. IDK about shipping.
I hear you about Black Friday. It's a regular thing for Z1 Motorsports. I saved hundreds on my rotors back when.
08-29-2024, 12:28 PM
#3030
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
So they're a bit long, but I don't see why they still wouldn't work. The M6x18 OD nylon washers are correct.I'll run the car up on ramps tomorrow and play with these.
Last edited by Rochester; 08-30-2024 at 08:01 PM.