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I mean, maybe? I've never explored PPF tech, but I've a friend who swears by it.
In for a penny, in for a pound.
I did the entire front end of my Golf back in 2018 and it's holding up great. I have one rock chip that went through the film and chipped the hood, and I clipped the lower bumper backing out of my garage the ppf was the only thing damaged.
I recently took the car back and they cut out the damaged area of the lower bumper and cut new film to splice in -- looks perfect, and they didn't even charge me. They also notched the film where the rock chip was so I could touch it up and then get the hood redone. If you're in for a pound, and plan to keep the car, it is absolutely worth it to protect your car. Had it on my G37 too, and again, not a single rock chip in the covered area.
Unpainted replicas are going for $400 on ebay, and every now and then an OEM sport lip comes up here on the forum.
As I've mentioned in several other posts, OEM paint matched body pieces are almost always still available overseas. If memory serves your paint code is QAA (white). A quick cursory search yielded:
$383 new, OEM, painted. Shipping should not be that outrageous (Amayama has a tendency to "over quote" the shipping up front and refunds the difference once it ships).
When/ if the time comes. that is. Just tossing that out there...
I certainly appreciate all the research, and it will be an option when the time comes. However, I'm also interested in having the front bumper repainted, along with my front grille. So for continuity, all three pieces should get painted at the same time with the same mix. I don't know paint, but I do know 3-stage, pearl white paint changes as it ages.
That said, an OEM chin kept in a box all its life, painted in factory QAA... that might match well enough with fresh QAA on the bumper and grille. So either way would probably be fine.
You'll need a 20 safety torx bit, the one with the little hole in the tip. Also probably a breaker bar for the steering wheel nut. Disconnecting your battery and draining system energy reserves by holding down the brake and then leaving the car alone for a few minutes is key for the airbag. Very simple overall though.
I haven't gotten around to installing the wheel, but it's bound to happen sooner than later. This afternoon I re-watched some videos on the project. It all seems very straight-forward.
BTW, all the videos talk to a 30T safety bit for the two airbag bolts, not 20T. I still need to run down to Harbor Freight and get that. It will probably be in a set with multiple sizes, for like $10 to $20.
Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S
30-minute job, max. 45 if you are painfully cautious.
1) take note of the alignment marks before popping the wheel off.
I've heard on videos that the center hex nut is 19mm. @ILM-NC G37S you're really good at looking this stuff up... do you know the torque spec is on that nut?
The airbag module uses two (2) T30 safety bolts. The bit must have the hole in the center to fit the bolts.
The torque spec for those bolts is 82 in-lb.
If you will be reusing the two bolts I would strongly recommend you chase the threads to remove the old loctite and apply fresh (blue) loctite.
The torque spec for the steering wheel mounting nut is 25 ft-lb.
EDITED TO ADD: when you do get to point to where you are removing the wheel from the "hub," have a few pieces of tape ready at hand. Once you remove the wheel you will want to tape the SRS clockspring halves together. This will prevent accidental turning of the clockspring while the wheel is removed.
You know, that whole "ounce of prevention / pound of cure" thing.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 08-03-2024 at 09:08 AM.
@Rochester, note I edited my post above to add my suggestion of taping the two halves of the clockspring as a preventive measure against accidental misalignment while the wheel is removed.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 08-03-2024 at 09:09 AM.
Today I'm working on the steering wheel swap. I bought a set of Security Torx bits, a 19mm socket (because I can't find my big sockets), and a long-overdue in-lb torque wrench at Harbor Freight. The airbag bolts were a PITA to remove, because of the angle, but whatever, it's done. The airbag came out easily enough, after watching vids on how the connector clips work. And the center nut broke free with relative ease, thanks to having a full sized ft-lb torque wrench. With the original wheel on the dining room table, the backpieces swapped fine, and I started putting things together, thinking I was home free.
But then as I was trying to put the airbag bolts back in, the Torx bit dislodged from the wrench and fell inside the housing. And unfortunately I can't take the airbag back out because the bolt is already turned a few threads. Oops. I need another 30T adapter to retrieve the first 30T adapter. (sigh)
So I actually have to go back to the hardware store, to buy a second set of safety Torx bits. It's quite a shock when you realize how badly you fcked up. I mean, it's not catastrophic, but I still feel like an idiot. This is about the same level of incompetence I was feeling with the heater hose project a couple months ago.
Anyway, here are some pics, while my car is bricked and I wait for one of my girls to come home so I can borrow their car.
Turns out the T27 socket bit has just enough grab to unscrew the two or three rotations on the airbag bolt, so I was able to remove the airbag again and retrieve the T30 bit. Then I put it all back together again and bolted things up to torque spec, and took the car for a drive. The wheel is still centered, no electrical problems that I can tell, and it looks freaking gorgeous in my hands. Very happy with this!
Oh and this funny thing I didn't recognize until I was driving around: I've got an extra button on the steering wheel trim. I think it's for Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC), which I obviously don't have being a 6MT. That's kind of funny. And not at all worth taking everything apart just to switch out the trim.
Now I need to go figure out how to reset the windows, having lost the window up feature after disconnecting the battery. No wait, that was easy. I keep forgetting how easy that is.
Here's a whole dash photo. Man, for years I've been thinking there nothing I can do with the steering wheel because of the Stone Leather interior, where everything is some shade of putty. I didn't know Redline Goods had something that would look this good. It totally works with the color scheme, and the same perforated dark leather is used throughout. I'm liking this new wheel more and more.
Here's a whole dash photo. Man, for years I've been thinking there nothing I can do with the steering wheel because of the Stone Leather interior, where everything is some shade of putty.
But this wheel looks good, IMO. It works with the color scheme, and the same perforated dark leather is used throughout. I'm liking it more and more.
Nice, fits the stone interior sooooo much better than wheat
07-31-2024, 12:57 PM
the ppf was the only thing damaged.
You should be a moderator.
I need another 30T adapter to retrieve the first 30T adapter. (sigh)
