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Rochester's new G

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Old 11-04-2020, 10:46 AM
  #2641  
BULL
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The reason why bearings in the pilot is not such a popular option is because bearings need to be continuously lubricated or else they will seize and weld to both surfaces upon drying out making replacement close to impossible along with damaging your input shaft.
Bronze/Brass is the popular due to it wearing faster than the input shaft, for the most part they have about the same life span as your clutch.
So essentially when replacing your clutch, replace the pilot and you'll be fine. Almost every manufacturer has tried a different option however the lack of lubrication to this limits your options and adding lubrication to this means that a seal will have to be put in place after the bushing and due to this area a seal will fail even faster than the bushing itself.

Kind of sad however every MT owner that has done these can tell you, it is part of the service.
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Old 11-06-2020, 09:02 AM
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rotarymike
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I'm just wondering why these: https://www.pineappleracing.com/pilo...ngandseal.aspx don't wear out as much as the Nismo bearing. Lack of seal? When you replace the rotary pilot bearing you lube it up pretty well, then pop the seal in. I've rebuild scores of rotary engines and only seen a few with destroyed pilots, even if the seal was obviously dried out and not contacting the pilot shaft any more. Hell I think I still have a pilot bearing somewhere - I'll check and see if it's a sealed bearing, but I don't think so based on design.

Sacrificial sleeve bearing just seems too primitive for these otherwise highly engineered engines. :shrug:
Old 11-20-2020, 11:57 AM
  #2643  
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Winter is coming. I'll be swapping out the Vossens either this weekend, or during Thanksgiving.

On that note, I just purchased a "Trickle Charger" for the car for the winter. I barely drive the car as is, and particularly during the winter it can sit sometimes for weeks before getting driven. Having burned through a couple batteries in my kid's car (for lack of driving while having an aftermarket remote starter installed), I decided a simple trickle charger would be appropriate for the G. Never had one before. Seems pretty straight-forward.
Old 11-20-2020, 12:08 PM
  #2644  
RobC7
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Winter is coming. I'll be swapping out the Vossens either this weekend, or during Thanksgiving.

On that note, I just purchased a "Trickle Charger" for the car for the winter. I barely drive the car as is, and particularly during the winter it can sit sometimes for weeks before getting driven. Having burned through a couple batteries in my kid's car (for lack of driving while having an aftermarket remote starter installed), I decided a simple trickle charger would be appropriate for the G. Never had one before. Seems pretty straight-forward.
I did the reverse by installing the coupe 19s on Michelin Pilot Sports. Don't plan on driving the car in the winter as I am working from home and I can always take the wifes car if needed.

Trickle chargers are great, always used one on my GTOs/Vette & the bike. The C7 was awesome because it had a trickle charger plug in the trunk so I didn't need to hook it up directly to the battery. Only thing to watch out for is for the cable to not rub against the paint. Set it and forget it!
Old 11-20-2020, 12:20 PM
  #2645  
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The charger I bought was the Battery Tender Jr. It has a dongle that I can bolt right up to the battery, and leave the capped end dangling for connection to the 8ft cable connected to the wall. Kind of like what you're describing with your Vette.
Old 11-20-2020, 12:49 PM
  #2646  
rotarymike
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Used those on the race cars. A+ for function that exactly equals description and price.
Old 11-20-2020, 02:24 PM
  #2647  
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Nice move on the trickle charger! I think I used one very similar on my 2005 M3 when I basically stored it for the winter since it was sitting on Michelin Pilot Super Sports. I tried to take the car out once every few weeks when the temps came up a bit and the roads were clear just to get fluids moving and keep the tires from flat spotting.

The trickle charger worked great as the car fired right up every time. I was surprised by how slowly it charged. If you drove the car for 5 miles it took 3 days to get back to a full charge. But this is perfect for a car that sits often.
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Old 11-26-2020, 10:44 AM
  #2648  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
The TBW undertray is on the car. That was... well, fun I mean, in hindsight it was fun because I was happy with the way it turned out, irrespective of issues that came up. But it's a gorgeous day today, mid-70's, light breeze, sunny. Absolutely beautiful day. So I did this outdoors at the back of the driveway.

I had two OEM corner bolts that were deeply rusted together, clip to bolt. For those corners, I had to cut out the old OEM tray. First time in 9 years that I had to do something like that with the tray. Ended up damaging those two areas, so then I had to come up with a new way to configure the replacement clips. Took a bit to come up with a solution, (hello box cutter), but I got it figured out well enough. I also used a few old bolts that were longer than the ones which came with the tray; same thread but longer with larger washers. That was helpful to have in 3 of the connection points. Particularly the back bolt that goes through the oil access panel.

Anyway, buttoned up and tight, big cosmetic improvement over the OEM tray, which has really seen better times.

I also changed the oil, and installed a Fumoto oil drain valve. Next year's oil change is going to be a breeze!

I'm thinking of picking up an undertray tomorrow. Why did you go with the TBW over the Z1 or Zspeed?
Old 11-26-2020, 09:21 PM
  #2649  
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
Nice move on the trickle charger!
Thanks! It was inexpensive, and research tells me it's a solid purchase. Bolted to the +/- connectors, the cable slips right through the clip in the battery tray. Didn't have to cut any holes.

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Old 11-26-2020, 09:24 PM
  #2650  
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Originally Posted by RobC7
I'm thinking of picking up an undertray tomorrow. Why did you go with the TBW over the Z1 or Zspeed?
I don't know. Decided on the TBW years ago, made note of it, and when it came around to buying one I just went with the decision made and didn't re-research the purchase.

No complaints. Solid design. Perfect fitment.
Old 11-27-2020, 09:37 AM
  #2651  
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Winter Wheels & Snows

It's time to swap for winter wheels and snow tires, pretty much every Thanksgiving. Snow tires still have reasonable tread, however the rears (Michelin X-Ice) have less depth than the fronts (Bridgestone Blizzaks LM-60). Honestly, I wish the fronts would wear out, and I could get a full set of Michelins. Maybe next year all four.

Getting hands-on with the summer tires (Continental Extreme Sports), it's the same story. Fronts have solid tread, whereas the big rear tires have less. However, they're both good for the entire next year. And as I learned with the previous tires (Michelin PSS), the inner edges will wear out before the tread depth does, because of the negative camber.

Swapping wheels is kind of an ordeal. The Vossens have hub adapters, and a 3mm spacer in the front, with McGard spline drive lugnuts. For the winter, I use 15mm wheel spacers, which have their own spline drive lugnuts. And then OEM lugnuts for the duckfeet. In other words, there's two different spline drive keys, and 3 different sockets. It's kind of a dance... bring up the wheels from storage, pump up the tires to spec, lay out the tools, and have at it one corner at a time.






Old 11-27-2020, 01:39 PM
  #2652  
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That doesn't sound like much fun with the spacers and I bet you miss the look of your summer wheels. I just did the same thing with my car on Tuesday since we were supposed to get enough snow to justify it, but of course it turned to rain so I might have actually been able to ride the summer tires until December.

Last year I discovered a left over set of very thin (1-3mm?) titanium spacers from my old STI that just needed the hub bores drilled to fit the G. I was running a 5mm set of spacers, but they were thick enough to make me uncomfortable with how much thread I was losing on the lugnuts and the front wheel lugs seemed to need to be retorqued more often than I liked. The thinner titanium ones work better as my winter wheels are just too close for comfort on the front calipers without them.

Your rotors look nice. Z1 has them on sale for $998 right now for a complete set. I am tempted, but they are kind of unnecessary for me at this point.
Old 11-29-2020, 08:40 AM
  #2653  
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Trickle charger blinks red when powered but not connected. It's solid red when, powered, connected and charging. And it goes solid green when fully charged and just maintaining. So I guess it's working.
Old 11-29-2020, 09:24 AM
  #2654  
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re: battery tender...
I've been on the fence getting a couple of these units- one for the G and another for my beater pickup- as I drive neither for weeks at a time.

Out of curiosity, did you go with the 0.75 or 1.25amp version of the Junior?
Old 11-29-2020, 09:32 AM
  #2655  
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Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S
re: battery tender...
I've been on the fence getting a couple of these units- one for the G and another for my beater pickup- as I drive neither for weeks at a time.

Out of curiosity, did you go with the 0.75 or 1.25amp version of the Junior?
This one here:
Amazon Amazon

You know, I probably should have taken advantage of your opinion first. You certainly have a particular expertise in electrical stuff.

That said, is this little guy GTG?


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