Rochester's new G
08-22-2017, 08:08 PM
#1891
Fluid change after break in is standard for diffs (or really anything mechanical). I bet next time its a lot cleaner. The parts have to wear together just slightly which produces all the crud. Can't say if the amount you're seeing is typical or not though.
You dont grease/oil sealed shocks. Tein Basis are not rebuidable according to Tein's literature. They intend for customers to replace the entire shock.
You dont grease/oil sealed shocks. Tein Basis are not rebuidable according to Tein's literature. They intend for customers to replace the entire shock.
The following users liked this post:
Rochester (08-22-2017)
08-23-2017, 12:34 PM
#1892
I would not suggest greasing the shock shaft, as it will just add a source to attract dirt and/or sand that could possibly be pulled into the shock as it strokes and damage the oil seal and possibly even scratch the shock shaft itself. You could try just a squirt of Teflon based spray lubricant that is transported in a carrier that will evaporate so it doesn't stay wet. Although this probably won't permanently cure your problem it will at least confirm if the shock shaft moving in and out of the shock is the source of your noise. If it goes away when you spray it then you'll know where your problem is.
08-26-2017, 04:21 PM
#1893
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Tein finally got back to me with a professionally worded customer service response, asking for the specific part number, and ensuring me they could assist me in replacing a single damper, if that's what I'm asking for. They also advised me to be sure it's the damper before continuing, because really it can be anything that's moving when that rear corner rocks up and down. So I'm going to have to try harder to get my mechanic (or another shop) to diagnose the noise.
I pulled the wheel today to get access to the product tag. Part of me thinks I could replace this myself, if I had a long ratchet extension. But a larger part of me would rather have a mechanic do the work, now that I know what's involved. It's actually pretty simple given the right tools and easy access. In other words, this is a quick job, probably a one-hour minimum-charge kind of job.
Still plugging away. Eeek eeek eeek.
I pulled the wheel today to get access to the product tag. Part of me thinks I could replace this myself, if I had a long ratchet extension. But a larger part of me would rather have a mechanic do the work, now that I know what's involved. It's actually pretty simple given the right tools and easy access. In other words, this is a quick job, probably a one-hour minimum-charge kind of job.
Still plugging away. Eeek eeek eeek.
08-28-2017, 03:00 PM
#1894
Did you try spraying a PTFE based dry film lubricant yet to see if that eliminates (or reduces) the noise? If you think its the shock then I would start there. If the noise doesn't go away then try spraying the outer control arm bushing and check for the noise again... then the inner control bushings... then the sway bar end links and so on. Just make sure you spray one thing at a time so you can isolate the specific problem area.
08-28-2017, 03:12 PM
#1895
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
^^^
I sprayed everything with a can of Jig-a-loo I had lying around, no change. No, I didn't spray the damper rod itself because it's well covered with a stiff rubber boot. Is that the OEM boot reused? IDK.
I also found out something today. After TEIN introduced their Basis Coiliver kit, they followed up with ther "Basis Z", which is essentially the same thing, except that the BasisZ can't be rebuilt. So if you want to buy a whole new damper, you just order it. However, the original Basis non-Z can be rebuilt. Consequently you can't buy a single Basis damper. Oh, and the two dampers aren't interchangable for some reason. I can't buy a Basis-Z to replace my Basis. At least, that's what one retailer told me.
Kind of feels like I'm getting the short end of marketing and packaging decisions. (sigh) Either way, I'm in email contact with TEIN, and that sounded encouraging.
It feels to me like a freaking project:
1. Have my mechanic or another shop confirm the damper is the root problem.
2. Have the shop swap out the damper for one of my OEM dampers.
3. Ship the damper back to TEIN for repair.
4. Have the shop swap the TEIN damper back in.
That's a LOT of freaking run-around for what should be something simple and inexpensive. Really makes me think I should replace the damper myself.
I sprayed everything with a can of Jig-a-loo I had lying around, no change. No, I didn't spray the damper rod itself because it's well covered with a stiff rubber boot. Is that the OEM boot reused? IDK.
I also found out something today. After TEIN introduced their Basis Coiliver kit, they followed up with ther "Basis Z", which is essentially the same thing, except that the BasisZ can't be rebuilt. So if you want to buy a whole new damper, you just order it. However, the original Basis non-Z can be rebuilt. Consequently you can't buy a single Basis damper. Oh, and the two dampers aren't interchangable for some reason. I can't buy a Basis-Z to replace my Basis. At least, that's what one retailer told me.
Kind of feels like I'm getting the short end of marketing and packaging decisions. (sigh) Either way, I'm in email contact with TEIN, and that sounded encouraging.
It feels to me like a freaking project:
1. Have my mechanic or another shop confirm the damper is the root problem.
2. Have the shop swap out the damper for one of my OEM dampers.
3. Ship the damper back to TEIN for repair.
4. Have the shop swap the TEIN damper back in.
That's a LOT of freaking run-around for what should be something simple and inexpensive. Really makes me think I should replace the damper myself.
08-28-2017, 07:47 PM
#1896
That is a LOT of logistics.
Why not just swap both OEM dampers back on?
You've got OE fronts with the Swifts, and the Tein in the rear. It wouldn't be any more mix-matched, and you'll still be able to dial in your ride height, which IIRC, was the whole point of the coils anyway.
Why not just swap both OEM dampers back on?
You've got OE fronts with the Swifts, and the Tein in the rear. It wouldn't be any more mix-matched, and you'll still be able to dial in your ride height, which IIRC, was the whole point of the coils anyway.
08-29-2017, 01:24 PM
#1897
Yeah, that does sound like a very long and drawn our process just to get the shock rebuilt. Did they quote you a price for a single "Basis Z" replacement damper? I'm not a fan of mixing and matching suspension components but you could always just try replacing the single bad damper and see if there are any adverse effects to the suspension or not. Then you could also send your old damper back to Tein to be rebuilt and have that one as a back-up.
The other option would be to swap the damper out yourself. You would actually have to do this twice (once for the OEM damper and then again once you get your rebuilt unit back), but it's actually quite easy if you have a floor jack, a pair of jack-stands and a metric socket set (you may need to buy a 3/8" extension set). Let me know if this is something you might consider doing yourself and if you want I can type up a detailed DIY for you for just the damper replacement.
The other option would be to swap the damper out yourself. You would actually have to do this twice (once for the OEM damper and then again once you get your rebuilt unit back), but it's actually quite easy if you have a floor jack, a pair of jack-stands and a metric socket set (you may need to buy a 3/8" extension set). Let me know if this is something you might consider doing yourself and if you want I can type up a detailed DIY for you for just the damper replacement.
08-29-2017, 01:31 PM
#1898
Here's a couple of links to a couple of different extension sets for a 3/8" ratchet set. I have both of these sets. The Harbor Freight set is VERY cheaply made, but the "wobble" feature comes in handy when try to get on the rear shocks rearmost upper mounting nut. The other extension set from KD Tools (Gear Wrench) is a reasonably priced higher quality set but doesn't have the wobble feature (this is the set I use pretty much every day).
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-w...set-67971.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-w...set-67971.html
08-29-2017, 01:41 PM
#1899
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
The other option would be to swap the damper out yourself. You would actually have to do this twice (once for the OEM damper and then again once you get your rebuilt unit back), but it's actually quite easy if you have a floor jack, a pair of jack-stands and a metric socket set (you may need to buy a 3/8" extension set). Let me know if this is something you might consider doing yourself and if you want I can type up a detailed DIY for you for just the damper replacement.
In the meantime, the car doesn't seem to be suffering in any way I can notice. I've been driving it, and it's still a beast in every way you would imagine given the mods and it's condition.
Last edited by Rochester; 08-29-2017 at 03:29 PM.
09-03-2017, 08:36 AM
#1900
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Just bought this for the wife yesterday:
It's a 2018 Subaru Forester 2.5i Touring Edition. This is a stock photo, but this is the car... in Pearl White (just like my G) with a Saddle Brown leather interior. This photo is missing the body side molding we ordered, and the wheal arch molding we also ordered, but essentially this is the car. And we're picking it up later this week.
It's a 3500 pound car with a 2.5L flat-four Boxer (naturally aspirated), with 170hp and 174 pound-feet of torque, symmetrical full-time AWD matched to a CVT transmission. Shockingly, the CVT with this NA engine is wonderfully matched, and feels very much like a traditional 6AT. The throttle is responsive, and the drivetrain is pretty rewarding. It handles very well in its class of car, very flat and nimble with a super tight turning radius. In fact, it handles much better than all 6 other vehicles we test-drove before coming to this decision, with exception to the Ford Escape Titanium Edition, which was a fine car. Sadly, the thigh bolsters in these seats is non-existent, so if you throw the Forester into a turn, you will slam against the door. Not too happy about that, but then again, it's not a sports car.
The 18" wheels on the Touring Edition are very, very appealing. Rugged and stylish. The Saddle Brown leather is rich and upscale. And the Touring edition has more electronic luxury features than I will ever use. Essentially, this is a $22K family SUV with another $10K of luxury options. Pretty impressive little car.
The most important thing... my wife is super excited about it.
And I'm just happy to make her happy. Should be a fantastic family car, just like our Honda CR-V has been for the last 10 years.
It's a 2018 Subaru Forester 2.5i Touring Edition. This is a stock photo, but this is the car... in Pearl White (just like my G) with a Saddle Brown leather interior. This photo is missing the body side molding we ordered, and the wheal arch molding we also ordered, but essentially this is the car. And we're picking it up later this week.
It's a 3500 pound car with a 2.5L flat-four Boxer (naturally aspirated), with 170hp and 174 pound-feet of torque, symmetrical full-time AWD matched to a CVT transmission. Shockingly, the CVT with this NA engine is wonderfully matched, and feels very much like a traditional 6AT. The throttle is responsive, and the drivetrain is pretty rewarding. It handles very well in its class of car, very flat and nimble with a super tight turning radius. In fact, it handles much better than all 6 other vehicles we test-drove before coming to this decision, with exception to the Ford Escape Titanium Edition, which was a fine car. Sadly, the thigh bolsters in these seats is non-existent, so if you throw the Forester into a turn, you will slam against the door. Not too happy about that, but then again, it's not a sports car.
The 18" wheels on the Touring Edition are very, very appealing. Rugged and stylish. The Saddle Brown leather is rich and upscale. And the Touring edition has more electronic luxury features than I will ever use. Essentially, this is a $22K family SUV with another $10K of luxury options. Pretty impressive little car.
The most important thing... my wife is super excited about it.
And I'm just happy to make her happy. Should be a fantastic family car, just like our Honda CR-V has been for the last 10 years.
Last edited by Rochester; 10-11-2017 at 05:52 AM.
The following users liked this post:
2GoRNot2G (09-05-2017)
09-03-2017, 10:13 AM
#1902
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Haha, that's the truth!
Even with snow tires on her Honda, a few times a year we have to get a running start to make it up the driveway, and it can get pretty dicey. Now imagine this Forester with snow tires.
Should be a freaking jack-rabbit on snow and ice, what with Subaru's full-time symmetrical AWD system.
That Saddle Brown Leather is only available on the Touring Edition, and it is a seriously upscale look, IMO. The car also has GPS Navigation, zoned climate control, heated power seats with 2-person memory, heated steering wheel (dammit!), premium sound system, a panoramic sunroof which is positively jaw-dropping, lane-departure warning, backup sensing automatic braking, adaptive cruise control, a powered lift-gate, and more things than I can possibly rattle off the top of my head. It's a little overwhelming, actually.
You know what I like? And this might seem kind of silly. But see that P-Brake handle, which is nicely wrapped with a leather boot? Well, that's not just a P-Brake; it's a genuine, full-stop E-brake, like it should be.
Even with snow tires on her Honda, a few times a year we have to get a running start to make it up the driveway, and it can get pretty dicey. Now imagine this Forester with snow tires.
Should be a freaking jack-rabbit on snow and ice, what with Subaru's full-time symmetrical AWD system.That Saddle Brown Leather is only available on the Touring Edition, and it is a seriously upscale look, IMO. The car also has GPS Navigation, zoned climate control, heated power seats with 2-person memory, heated steering wheel (dammit!), premium sound system, a panoramic sunroof which is positively jaw-dropping, lane-departure warning, backup sensing automatic braking, adaptive cruise control, a powered lift-gate, and more things than I can possibly rattle off the top of my head. It's a little overwhelming, actually.
You know what I like? And this might seem kind of silly. But see that P-Brake handle, which is nicely wrapped with a leather boot? Well, that's not just a P-Brake; it's a genuine, full-stop E-brake, like it should be.
The following users liked this post:
blnewt (09-03-2017)
09-04-2017, 08:50 AM
#1903
Registered Member
Now imagine this Forester with snow tires.
My wife's most previous car was an Outback. Absolutely zero need for snow tires. Thing was like a bulldozer in the snow.
My wife's most previous car was an Outback. Absolutely zero need for snow tires. Thing was like a bulldozer in the snow.
09-12-2017, 02:24 PM
#1904
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Damn fine looking OEM wheels on this Forester, in 18x7".
That said, there are flaws in the finish that I've discovered when I washed the car this weekend. At first I thought it was an anomoly, and I was thinking I'd bring it up to the dealership. But then I realized all the wheels suffer similar flaws. The painted/clear-coated finish is thin and unpolished in at least two of the nooks and crannies on each wheel.
So... pretty, but not perfect. Not like the finish on my Vossens, which was flawless on Day One, and same three years later.
That said, there are flaws in the finish that I've discovered when I washed the car this weekend. At first I thought it was an anomoly, and I was thinking I'd bring it up to the dealership. But then I realized all the wheels suffer similar flaws. The painted/clear-coated finish is thin and unpolished in at least two of the nooks and crannies on each wheel.
So... pretty, but not perfect. Not like the finish on my Vossens, which was flawless on Day One, and same three years later.