Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

^^you're getting the diff bushings installed then too, right?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Yep. Whiteline bushings, same as you, IIRC.

My main bushing isn't blown, but since the rear end is down, might as well do this as both an upgrade and preventative maintenance.

I'll be honest with you, Lego, I have some anxiety about the gears. Not the bushings... I'm totally fine with poly bushings; like my transmission mount. But there's a nagging fear that I'm going to dislike the overall changes more than I welcome the added performance. Then again, this isn't being done on whim. I've been giving this years worth of consideration.

Meh. It's a hobby.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, the bushings are a great upgrade, and that's coming from someone who made it 2 days with the trans mount.

I'd be concerned too I researched gears and saw too many "no traction in 1st" and "no gains in the 1/4" for to to justify it. I'm sure it will be a visceral mod, even if you're not any faster. And since you don't drive it that much, it's probably going to be exactly what you're looking for.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Agreed. I'm telling myself that 275/19, PSS and VLSD will collectively deal with traction in 1st. As for the quarter mile... I don't live in the 1/4 mile. All I do is barnstorm my local roads. I'm rarely on the highway for any length of time, and I've got a very driveable setup between the RJM pedal and the STS.

Like I was saying, it all looks good on paper. Real life...? We'll see.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

I was making a joke about your stickers. Thanks for the links, but I am plenty familiar with Hawk and UR.

Do you have the right tools for the rear diff bushing? That can be a royal PITA if you don't. I just have the front diff bushings in right now and it is a super subtle change in how it drives. Most people will not even notice. I am still waiting for the time to get the rear diff bushing in now that I think I have tracked down the right tools.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

Why don't you just cut it out like in the DIY?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

No, I have a mechanic. He'll figure it out.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

That's the game plan.


He may need a short C-clamp type press to get the new bushing in. We did not have the right tools in a fully stocked Nissan shop partly because our shop has yet to encounter this failure and probably also because Nissan's fix is to replace the whole subframe and not just the bushing.

It is not a tool most techs have, but it is easy to rent from Autozone if you need it. Just take the bushing to your mechanic so he can make sure he has the right tools and properly sized cups to press it in from the back of the subframe because there is not a lot of room back there.

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

What anxiety do you have about the gears? Afraid you may be running too high RPM's on the freeway? If that's the case, you should just go out and drive an early 2007 - 2008 with the 5AT tranny. Mine runs at a little over 3K RPM's driving 75 - 80 mph on the freeway. Although that may seem a bit high it doesn't bother me at all and I also get around 30 mpg on the highway and average around 23 mpg, so it doesn't seem to hurt the gas mileage either.


I used one of these for my bushings. It's the C-Clamp press from an OTC ball joint kit that I used for the ball joints on my Jeep a few years ago.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

I think that is very similar to what they have at Autozone that I was planning to use. Glad to hear it worked for you.

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

Yes, the one the AutoZone stores out here loan out are very similar to the one I have, but just a bit smaller. The OTC one I have is their "heavy duty" one that can also be used on trucks/jeeps. Just be very careful with the AutoZone one, because it seems to be fairly fragile. I had a buddy crack the one he checked out from an AutoZone store and then after he returned it they charged his credit card $250 for a replacement. Theirs seems to be fairly cheap unit (probably some China made Harbor Freight one or something like that).

Baadnewsburr

iTrader: (3)

Did you use this on the rear Differential bushing or some other bushing? Initially I rented it when I was doing mine and it was fine for the rear knuckle bushings but I could not get it to fit into position when doing rear differential bushing...there wasn't enough clearance behind the sub frame and forward of the spare tire well

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I used it for the rear differential bushing, as well as several other bushings on the Infiniti (and on my Porsche... and the ball joints on my Jeep... etc..). Although I had most of the rear end dropped at the time so there were no clearance issues.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the tip! I'll be careful.

Did you use the Autozone rental or something else?

Baadnewsburr

iTrader: (3)

i ended up using a long theaded bolt (5/8) a bunch of washers and couple peices of this metal (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-...203170046)...i drilled a 5/8" hole in the middle and threaded it through with some washers and the nuts on either end, slathered the bolt in old gear oil(very important ) put a socket with a breaker bar on the back and an electric impact wrench on the front and cranked for 10 seconds and it was done....before that i struggled for hours trying to use various tools that just wouldnt position right...also i froze the bushing for a week before....the setup was similar but not as complicated as in this vid at the 20min mark