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New build: GTM TT Stg-II • '08 Infiniti G37 5-spd auto • The Shop CT

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Old 05-07-2012, 12:11 PM
  #286  
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AHHHHHHHHH

Every time i see something like this, I turn down the boost in my car.
Old 05-08-2012, 09:19 AM
  #287  
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Originally Posted by ANMVQ
Just a question tho, Did you ever look at the GTR pistons and rods? Something I was thinking about for my build "Maybe".
First I've ever heard of a compatibility--if so. Short answer: No.

Too bad, if so. Jimmy's are probably sitting in The Shop looking for love. He's gone full-tilt on HIS GTR.

Coop
Old 05-12-2012, 02:48 PM
  #288  
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Update: Stuck waiting on bearings and HD studs. Ordered from GTM, but might be probs to acquire them on their end. I've been told "Soon..."

Then there will be time spent sending the parts to be balanced. Sigh.

My car is clogging up The Shop.

Coop
Old 05-12-2012, 02:55 PM
  #289  
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Update Part 2: Just got a text from Sam: Parts have been shipped.



Coop
Old 05-17-2012, 10:51 PM
  #290  
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Studs, bearings arrived. Thank you GTM.

Now the crank, rods, and bearings have been sent to be balanced. After that is complete, it's time for a deep breath and then reassembly.

Coop
Old 05-26-2012, 11:39 PM
  #291  
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Hey Coop, a tranny ?, ,What is the stall speed on you converter? Did they tell the stock stall speed? I was just at the track with my FI auto(*7 SPD). On off the line it would delay pretty bad, Thanx man
Old 05-27-2012, 06:48 AM
  #292  
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The Torque converter is what L10 would call stage I. It's noticable from stock, but not dramatic. One of the smartest mods I've done.

There is 3-4 tenths gain in that unit alone. I'm still sticking with the stg 1, but I know it's limiting me.

OEM: snooooooze.

Coop
Old 05-27-2012, 11:48 AM
  #293  
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Originally Posted by SharpByCoop
Going to Atco, one thing I was aware of, but didn't have time to change was a seemingly simple modification that played a role. When I went to the higher boost setting it would run clean until later gears. then there was some misfiring. Big cylinder pressures there.

Misfiring can be a few things, but one year old spark plugs with a 'normal' or wider gap can't handle the cylinder pressures that will occur at 600whp. What we needed to do was to close the gap down to .020" to ensure the plugs would fire.

It's a low budget and effective cure for an OEM ignition. Jimmy tells me any misfire is havoc on engine internals. I'll accept this responsibility to have missed this.

One thing is certain: After this build has some reliable street miles, when it's time to turn up the boost again--the plugs won't be wide, and the fuel won't be pump gas.

Coop
Coop, I'm glad everything is falling into place for you. I'm going to be sending my spare block to the machine shop next week. I'm working on some sponsorship for my build so rotating assembly is on hold.
I'm kind of skeptical about running the car at 650hp down the track , I know the rods are weakest link so I thinking of turning it down a bit first time to the track, around 575hp see what it does .
Can't wait till your build is done !
It's going to be an exciting summer!
Albert
Old 05-28-2012, 08:46 AM
  #294  
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Originally Posted by SharpByCoop
The Torque converter is what L10 would call stage I. It's noticable from stock, but not dramatic. One of the smartest mods I've done.

There is 3-4 tenths gain in that unit alone. I'm still sticking with the stg 1, but I know it's limiting me.

OEM: snooooooze.

Coop

Hey Coop thanx , Thats what I was look for perfect,, Also is the 3-4 tenths picked up, From the dreaded "Dead pedal for a dig" at the track Friday I would hit the pedal at the tree and the car would just sit there, No RMPS nothing , Them shoot roll out.. So I tried rolling starts but my ET's where still the same.. 6FT times where terrible becasue of that.. 2.1+
Old 05-28-2012, 09:38 AM
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Not only does it help at the strip, I found it responds MUCH more lively on the street, too. Step into it, and the RPM jumps up an extra thousand to put you right into the powerband.

Highly recommended.

It was worth 2.5 tenths on my 60' time with no other changes when I first installed it.

Coop
Old 05-29-2012, 09:48 AM
  #296  
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Originally Posted by SharpByCoop
Not only does it help at the strip, I found it responds MUCH more lively on the street, too. Step into it, and the RPM jumps up an extra thousand to put you right into the powerband.

Highly recommended.

It was worth 2.5 tenths on my 60' time with no other changes when I first installed it.

Coop
Nice thanx Coop, That would be my 60ft's right in line at 1.85 or so and would have knock my times into the mid 12's for sure, I will look into this with my dealer.. Still have factory 60k warrenty with my set up now.. Funny is I have a feeling this will not fly and I will have to wait a long time to have it changed. Appreciate the info,.
Old 06-06-2012, 10:31 AM
  #297  
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Hey Coop, Just one more ?? How is the daily drivability with the it?
Old 06-11-2012, 11:12 AM
  #298  
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??? I just answered that, two posts earlier. Top marks.

I'm on the road now, so I can't post pics, but the lower end was being reassembled last week by Hector. I took shots of the pistons and rods. You can see the machining in the pistons to match weights to the gram.

I'm told installation will be this week, and I ought to be putting in break in miles next week. Nice!

After 500 miles of easy miles, we go back on the dyno for a tune suited to the low compression. Don't expect us to really pump it up, although it will be more capable.

In a cost saving measure, I've opted to do nothing more to the valves/springs/heads than recutting the seats and faces. This is enough, certainly for a 600whp build.

When I'm back I'll post some pics.

Coop
Old 06-11-2012, 02:41 PM
  #299  
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Originally Posted by SharpByCoop
??? I just answered that, two posts earlier. Top marks.

I'm on the road now, so I can't post pics, but the lower end was being reassembled last week by Hector. I took shots of the pistons and rods. You can see the machining in the pistons to match weights to the gram.

I'm told installation will be this week, and I ought to be putting in break in miles next week. Nice!

After 500 miles of easy miles, we go back on the dyno for a tune suited to the low compression. Don't expect us to really pump it up, although it will be more capable.

In a cost saving measure, I've opted to do nothing more to the valves/springs/heads than recutting the seats and faces. This is enough, certainly for a 600whp build.

When I'm back I'll post some pics.

Coop
Glad the build is coming along , , Sorry I missed that, My bad for asking a question you answered,
Old 06-13-2012, 09:32 PM
  #300  
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Here's what we found upon disassembly two months ago:



Yikes! S-bend rods. OK, so we pushed it a bit. Glad we missed catastrophic. By a nose.

That said, here's what's pending. Wiseco 9:0/1 compression (note the dished top), and H-beam K-1 rods.



You can see the underside of this piston after the machinist milled to match weights. (They take the lightest piston of the six, then reduce the weight in all the others to match.) The rods and crank also have slight machining. This will make for a smooth revving motor, especially noted at high RPM's.



Lastly, here's Hector working diligently assembling the lower end. I haven't been to The Shop in a week, but I'm told it's continuing.



More news as I know.

Coop


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