New build: GTM TT Stg-II • '08 Infiniti G37 5-spd auto • The Shop CT
#166
Registered User
Thread Starter
Trans is done. They are picking it up today. I talked with Pat (?) the owner of Level 10. He claims it's simply incredible. Stab it in first and it's in the powerband, spinning those 290 street slicks. He claims no change on the highway in fifth. Best of both worlds.
I need to have the tune changed so the RPM limit is 500 higher. Sam@GTM, are you at all interested in our build? You have not said one word in my thread upon completion. I've posted GTM praise on every vid and outing.
News soon. I'm stoked to try it out, but it will be at least a week with my schedule.
Coop
I need to have the tune changed so the RPM limit is 500 higher. Sam@GTM, are you at all interested in our build? You have not said one word in my thread upon completion. I've posted GTM praise on every vid and outing.
News soon. I'm stoked to try it out, but it will be at least a week with my schedule.
Coop
#168
Registered User
Thread Starter
I picked the car up today. Jimmy was excited, the Level Ten owner was excited, and I'm excited, yet frustrated. The tune on this car has a limp RPM limit set at 7000rpm in first gear. Other gears = 7500 rpm. WTF?
It literally falls flat on it's face in the transition if you don't shift too early.
The torque converter is awesome. Step into it anywhere and it jumps up 1000 RPM's right into the powerband. Boost and power are even more responsive.
All the components inside are heavy duty, and Level Ten has a spotless shop and 35 years of trans and race experience. Great stuff.
Shifts are firm, yet 2nd is still softer than 3-5th. Probably by design, and it also may be a function of software. Pat did not have the software to change the ECU, although he made manual and mechanical changes internally.
But: I won't go back to the track nursing this RPM limiter. The car needs to lose the traction control or the RPM limiter or both.
Coop
It literally falls flat on it's face in the transition if you don't shift too early.
The torque converter is awesome. Step into it anywhere and it jumps up 1000 RPM's right into the powerband. Boost and power are even more responsive.
All the components inside are heavy duty, and Level Ten has a spotless shop and 35 years of trans and race experience. Great stuff.
Shifts are firm, yet 2nd is still softer than 3-5th. Probably by design, and it also may be a function of software. Pat did not have the software to change the ECU, although he made manual and mechanical changes internally.
But: I won't go back to the track nursing this RPM limiter. The car needs to lose the traction control or the RPM limiter or both.
Coop
#170
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes, I do. That doesn't do much of anything. You can't hold the brake and spin the tires, and as soon as they break free it goes soft, even with this 'disabled'.
### I need to look into this further. Just because I've pressed the damn VDC button and the light goes on in the dash doesn't mean it's really disabled. It acts as if it's on all the time.
How can I REALLY know I've disabled this? How can we lose the 'feature'?
Coop
### I need to look into this further. Just because I've pressed the damn VDC button and the light goes on in the dash doesn't mean it's really disabled. It acts as if it's on all the time.
How can I REALLY know I've disabled this? How can we lose the 'feature'?
Coop
Last edited by SharpByCoop; 06-17-2011 at 09:43 AM.
#172
I too would like to know this.
Coop, how do you like the transgo upgrade? And when you brake and give it gas at lanuch.... where is your rpm cut off? I wish we could somehow delete that
Coop, how do you like the transgo upgrade? And when you brake and give it gas at lanuch.... where is your rpm cut off? I wish we could somehow delete that
#173
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks guys.
Can't hold the brake and spin. It dies after two seconds. I can only spin them by getting the tires wet and then flooring it and not holding the brake. A funny car burnout! lol!
I've just ordered this Traction Control module from KP technologies. I'm not 100% sure it will eliminate the traction control, but I've sent the owners a note as a query.
This WILL get solved. Yes, I also read, after a search, of eliminating it by pulling off a connector, but the dash lights up.
Coop
Can't hold the brake and spin. It dies after two seconds. I can only spin them by getting the tires wet and then flooring it and not holding the brake. A funny car burnout! lol!
I've just ordered this Traction Control module from KP technologies. I'm not 100% sure it will eliminate the traction control, but I've sent the owners a note as a query.
This WILL get solved. Yes, I also read, after a search, of eliminating it by pulling off a connector, but the dash lights up.
Coop
#174
Hey Coop, I don't know it that module from KP will do the trick or not. I remember reading something on here about changing a relay to disable it but i cant seem to find it now. I will keep looking. also I read this on another thread;
"VDC is never 100% off. The Active Brake Limited Slip (ABLS) is always functioning, even with the VDC off. The ABLS operates the brake caliper if it senses slip, so the torque transfers to the other wheel." -1NEETO
"VDC is never 100% off. The Active Brake Limited Slip (ABLS) is always functioning, even with the VDC off. The ABLS operates the brake caliper if it senses slip, so the torque transfers to the other wheel." -1NEETO
#176
Well i only found some pretty useless info, like pulling the stop light fuse will let you burn out all you want but you will have no brake lights, so that's out of the question... RaceLogic traction control? Very expensive tho.
^i think the ABS fuse is tied into some other things on the G37, so i would not pull that out.
"ABS has it's own fuse but the fuse module also has the VVEL and Power Windows. You can get a replacement fuse module and then just cut the ABS fuse in the module."
Someone on the370z suggested you can "unplug the bosch connector under the e-brake and no vdc or slip light. you can also wire a switch to it so you dont have to plug it in and unplug it everytime you want it off." But i don't know if this is the same in the G37.
^i think the ABS fuse is tied into some other things on the G37, so i would not pull that out.
"ABS has it's own fuse but the fuse module also has the VVEL and Power Windows. You can get a replacement fuse module and then just cut the ABS fuse in the module."
Someone on the370z suggested you can "unplug the bosch connector under the e-brake and no vdc or slip light. you can also wire a switch to it so you dont have to plug it in and unplug it everytime you want it off." But i don't know if this is the same in the G37.
Last edited by prescott3656; 06-17-2011 at 11:45 AM.
#177
Administrator
Sam@GTM tested the racelogic tc on a boosted 370Z, I'm sure he can answer your questions (when he frees up at least)
#178
Sam
#179
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks to all for the helpful comments. Looks like we've got more investigative work to do.
I emailed KP technologies and got an answer within ten minutes of my query from the owner, Kevin Pierson:
I will look into a simple disable, even if it's just temporary for the track. (In fact, preferred?)
Google is my friend. So is Kevin Pierson.
Coop
I emailed KP technologies and got an answer within ten minutes of my query from the owner, Kevin Pierson:
Jim,
The KPtechnologies VDC Memory module emulates pushing the button each time the car is started (in the basic form). It does have an AUX output that is triggered by pressing the VDC button twice quickly that can be used to control a relay that can break power to the Yaw sensor. When you break power to the yaw sensor it faults out the VDC system and supposedly completely disables the VDC system. I have not done this myself and have no test data to verify this claim, but it is considered common knowledge on the community forums.
I would be concerned that your limp mode issues are not traction control related, as I have never heard of traction control putting the car in limp mode. The most common cause of limp mode is too high of a MAF signal at too low of an RPM. Could this be your issue?
#### below response, after a second clarification
Regarding the burn out – if the ECU receives a brake signal AND an accelerator signal it cancels the accelerator signal. There is a thread on this somewhere on my350z.com. You need to kill the brake signal to the ECU to enable standing burn outs. This is something that can be done with the AUX output of the KPtech module (use two separate relays – one to break the Yaw power and one to break the brake signal to the ECU).
Thank you,
Kevin Pierson
Director of Engineering
KP Technologies <http://www.KPtechnologies.com>
The KPtechnologies VDC Memory module emulates pushing the button each time the car is started (in the basic form). It does have an AUX output that is triggered by pressing the VDC button twice quickly that can be used to control a relay that can break power to the Yaw sensor. When you break power to the yaw sensor it faults out the VDC system and supposedly completely disables the VDC system. I have not done this myself and have no test data to verify this claim, but it is considered common knowledge on the community forums.
I would be concerned that your limp mode issues are not traction control related, as I have never heard of traction control putting the car in limp mode. The most common cause of limp mode is too high of a MAF signal at too low of an RPM. Could this be your issue?
#### below response, after a second clarification
Regarding the burn out – if the ECU receives a brake signal AND an accelerator signal it cancels the accelerator signal. There is a thread on this somewhere on my350z.com. You need to kill the brake signal to the ECU to enable standing burn outs. This is something that can be done with the AUX output of the KPtech module (use two separate relays – one to break the Yaw power and one to break the brake signal to the ECU).
Thank you,
Kevin Pierson
Director of Engineering
KP Technologies <http://www.KPtechnologies.com>
Google is my friend. So is Kevin Pierson.
Coop
#180
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok, going on what Kevin Pierson stated ^^, I did a little test to see if I could trick the computer...
I simply unclipped the brake light switch (In neutral, car running--otherwise you can't start it or get it out of Park.)
Place it in 1st, brake on, and SPIN THE TIRES LIKE MAD! LOL. So the brake light is a trigger.
I've just returned from Radio Shack, with a small momentary switch. I'm going to install it on the dash or console, and hook it inline with the brake light switch and press it when I need to do a burnout (and this would also allow some brake boosting at the line).
Although a toggle would do the same thing, for safety reasons, I'd hate to leave that switch to the off position. It's only disabled while I hold it. I'll have that connected by the weekend.
Going further, props to Sam Zawahara @ GTM. He called ME and we discussed what was going right and what was going wrong with my project. (I'm thinking it's a pretty good selling point to point to a shelf-tuned GTM TT kit with a lowly auto that has gone elevens. )
Upon my wishes, he's agreed to raise the (2) RPM limits in the ECU tune 400 rpm further. Not without reservation, but he agreed.
The car is at The Shop tonight and tuner Johnny Visconti (V-Flash) is going to do the changeover. I don't want to spin it that high, but it sometimes isn't in my control. The trans, even with the shift kit and rebuild has a giant delay from when you signal it, to when it actually shifts. I purchased and installed a set of the Black Betty grounding wires, as others stated it would sharpen this up. They were on a few weeks ago at the track. I could not tell one iota of difference, although my stereo sounds great!
That said, now that I've gotten some miles on the trans with the changed torque converter, I'm in love. WOW!
Anytime you want more power, step into it and the RPM doesn't wait to climb. It jumps up and just starts delivering. My concern was there would be too much 'slippage' on the road. Not so. Only when it's demanded. SO I really can't tell any difference at low throttle and normal driving.
Big, NOTICEABLE improvement. As far as what this is worth for drag times, we are guestimating that this would allow the car to be able to launch with maybe 1.7-1.8 60" times. Save one tenth there and it's almost double at the quarter.
I'm hedging on a Friday night outing. Weather and schedule providing. I'll report in soon about the drivability with the RPM adjustment.
Coop
I simply unclipped the brake light switch (In neutral, car running--otherwise you can't start it or get it out of Park.)
Place it in 1st, brake on, and SPIN THE TIRES LIKE MAD! LOL. So the brake light is a trigger.
I've just returned from Radio Shack, with a small momentary switch. I'm going to install it on the dash or console, and hook it inline with the brake light switch and press it when I need to do a burnout (and this would also allow some brake boosting at the line).
Although a toggle would do the same thing, for safety reasons, I'd hate to leave that switch to the off position. It's only disabled while I hold it. I'll have that connected by the weekend.
Going further, props to Sam Zawahara @ GTM. He called ME and we discussed what was going right and what was going wrong with my project. (I'm thinking it's a pretty good selling point to point to a shelf-tuned GTM TT kit with a lowly auto that has gone elevens. )
Upon my wishes, he's agreed to raise the (2) RPM limits in the ECU tune 400 rpm further. Not without reservation, but he agreed.
The car is at The Shop tonight and tuner Johnny Visconti (V-Flash) is going to do the changeover. I don't want to spin it that high, but it sometimes isn't in my control. The trans, even with the shift kit and rebuild has a giant delay from when you signal it, to when it actually shifts. I purchased and installed a set of the Black Betty grounding wires, as others stated it would sharpen this up. They were on a few weeks ago at the track. I could not tell one iota of difference, although my stereo sounds great!
That said, now that I've gotten some miles on the trans with the changed torque converter, I'm in love. WOW!
Anytime you want more power, step into it and the RPM doesn't wait to climb. It jumps up and just starts delivering. My concern was there would be too much 'slippage' on the road. Not so. Only when it's demanded. SO I really can't tell any difference at low throttle and normal driving.
Big, NOTICEABLE improvement. As far as what this is worth for drag times, we are guestimating that this would allow the car to be able to launch with maybe 1.7-1.8 60" times. Save one tenth there and it's almost double at the quarter.
I'm hedging on a Friday night outing. Weather and schedule providing. I'll report in soon about the drivability with the RPM adjustment.
Coop