Cambie Kit V36 sedan with swift springs:
01-26-2016, 08:07 PM
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Cambie Kit V36 sedan with swift springs:
Hello all I have swift springs on my RWD sedan, at first I thought I could keep in oem specs with oem camber kit but today I stopped by dealer for some road noise and the tech advised me that my aligment was off and at first that nothing else was wrong and also said that the type of tire caused the noise, before putting tires Infiniti tech felt wheel bearing loose and decided to exchange it for me, before I brought it in I thought it was the bearing and explained to them, they told me the reason the bearing went bad is due to the mis aligment witch i did not believe because I got it aligned a week after spring install (5mo ago)!! Anyways they advise me to get camber kit so should I get rear camber arms only and all 4 toe bolts or front camber arms as well! Opinions needed
Last edited by Ricio1991; 01-26-2016 at 08:33 PM.
01-26-2016, 09:57 PM
#2
Hello all I have swift springs on my RWD sedan, at first I thought I could keep in oem specs with oem camber kit but today I stopped by dealer for some road noise and the tech advised me that my aligment was off and at first that nothing else was wrong and also said that the type of tire caused the noise, before putting tires Infiniti tech felt wheel bearing loose and decided to exchange it for me, before I brought it in I thought it was the bearing and explained to them, they told me the reason the bearing went bad is due to the mis aligment witch i did not believe because I got it aligned a week after spring install (5mo ago)!! Anyways they advise me to get camber kit so should I get rear camber arms only and all 4 toe bolts or front camber arms as well! Opinions needed
A RWD on Swifts should be able to get reasonable wear w/ the rear 4 bolt set (2camber arms bolts, 2 toe bolts), you can get the front toe in spec no problem and should have front camber around -1.8 to -2, since the rear wears faster it's best to get that camber in the -1.2 range w/ toe in spec.
That 4 bolt set should get you back to a good place.
01-26-2016, 11:12 PM
#3
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by blnewt
Hard to say without seeing current alignment specs. Do you have your alignment spec sheet available?
A RWD on Swifts should be able to get reasonable wear w/ the rear 4 bolt set (2camber arms bolts, 2 toe bolts), you can get the front toe in spec no problem and should have front camber around -1.8 to -2, since the rear wears faster it's best to get that camber in the -1.2 range w/ toe in spec.
That 4 bolt set should get you back to a good place.
A RWD on Swifts should be able to get reasonable wear w/ the rear 4 bolt set (2camber arms bolts, 2 toe bolts), you can get the front toe in spec no problem and should have front camber around -1.8 to -2, since the rear wears faster it's best to get that camber in the -1.2 range w/ toe in spec.
That 4 bolt set should get you back to a good place.
01-26-2016, 11:36 PM
#4
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by blnewt
Hard to say without seeing current alignment specs. Do you have your alignment spec sheet available?
A RWD on Swifts should be able to get reasonable wear w/ the rear 4 bolt set (2camber arms bolts, 2 toe bolts), you can get the front toe in spec no problem and should have front camber around -1.8 to -2, since the rear wears faster it's best to get that camber in the -1.2 range w/ toe in spec.
That 4 bolt set should get you back to a good place.
A RWD on Swifts should be able to get reasonable wear w/ the rear 4 bolt set (2camber arms bolts, 2 toe bolts), you can get the front toe in spec no problem and should have front camber around -1.8 to -2, since the rear wears faster it's best to get that camber in the -1.2 range w/ toe in spec.
That 4 bolt set should get you back to a good place.
01-26-2016, 11:47 PM
#5
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html
This is something best done by a shop that's done it before or not too hard to DIY. Some shops that just deal primarily w/ bone stock cars can be clueless TBH.
Here's a post that may help
https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...ml#post3986266
As far as what A shop would charge, not sure, but it took me about 20 minutes to do the toe bolt slots, so I'd say about an hour of labor, whatever the going rate would be in your area.
01-27-2016, 04:26 PM
#7
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Camber is fine, toe is what's out again, we're going to get it aligned to spec, will post the sheet after there done, I'm at around negative 1.7 in camber witch I'm not worried about but the toe is what I'll keep an eye on.
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01-27-2016, 06:07 PM
#8
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by blnewt
Here's the SPC instructions
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html
This is something best done by a shop that's done it before or not too hard to DIY. Some shops that just deal primarily w/ bone stock cars can be clueless TBH.
Here's a post that may help
https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...ml#post3986266
As far as what A shop would charge, not sure, but it took me about 20 minutes to do the toe bolt slots, so I'd say about an hour of labor, whatever the going rate would be in your area.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html
This is something best done by a shop that's done it before or not too hard to DIY. Some shops that just deal primarily w/ bone stock cars can be clueless TBH.
Here's a post that may help
https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...ml#post3986266
As far as what A shop would charge, not sure, but it took me about 20 minutes to do the toe bolt slots, so I'd say about an hour of labor, whatever the going rate would be in your area.
01-27-2016, 08:56 PM
#9
I think you can live w/ those alignment specs. I forget, do you have a square wheel setup or staggered? If you're running square just rotate a bit more often, like every 7k miles. If you have assymetric tires on a non staggered you can still rotate side to side to help out a bit.
01-27-2016, 09:26 PM
#10
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by blnewt
I think you can live w/ those alignment specs. I forget, do you have a square wheel setup or staggered? If you're running square just rotate a bit more often, like every 7k miles. If you have assymetric tires on a non staggered you can still rotate side to side to help out a bit.
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