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Should I turn my slotted rotors?

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Old 06-04-2016 | 11:31 AM
  #16  
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I can't relate to pads on a car, but the following was my experience on the bike.

Changed over to SS lines for the front brake. Can't say lever feel changed drastically. Tried a different compound pads (Ferodo). About the same feel, maybe even worse. They wore out quickly too (~10K miles). Next tried EBC HH compound pads. These were the winner. Hard lever after only a few mm of pull. Good stopping power and feedback.

I wonder if there's air in the line causing the soft pedal.
Old 06-06-2016 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
A soft brake pedal usually has nothing to do with the pads since they are all of similar hardness. A soft pedal is usually due to the brake fluid or the brake lines. When did you replace your brake fluid? Have you tried upgrading to stainless braided brake lines? Both things will help.

The only thing related to pedal feel I can think of for the brake pads would be if your old pads were really worn down and then you switch to new pads. That would not really change the feel, but how long the pedal travels before the brakes engage so new pads could help that feeling.
Well soft may be the wrong word. I have a little more travel in the brake pedal than I think I should have before the pads really bite. I replaced all the brake lines with steel braided, new slotted rotors, and new pads when I first got the car with 54k miles on it.
Old 06-06-2016 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Jsolo
I can't relate to pads on a car, but the following was my experience on the bike.

Changed over to SS lines for the front brake. Can't say lever feel changed drastically. Tried a different compound pads (Ferodo). About the same feel, maybe even worse. They wore out quickly too (~10K miles). Next tried EBC HH compound pads. These were the winner. Hard lever after only a few mm of pull. Good stopping power and feedback.

I wonder if there's air in the line causing the soft pedal.

Once my powder coated calipers come in, I will be getting them installed which will require new fluid/bleeding.
Old 06-06-2016 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by JakeG37
Well soft may be the wrong word. I have a little more travel in the brake pedal than I think I should have before the pads really bite. I replaced all the brake lines with steel braided, new slotted rotors, and new pads when I first got the car with 54k miles on it.
Once you flush the brake fluid you should feel a difference. It sounds like you have taken out all the other variables like new pads and stainless lines as far as brake pedal travel.

If you are talking about the bite of the brake pads, that will have more to do with the compound of the brake pad.
Old 06-10-2016 | 06:39 PM
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So I got my calipers in, and they look great. I have no issues at the moment that would be associated with runout, but I would like to know if I should be concerned about it by switching out the calipers and putting on new pads? The only thing needing to be done to the rotors would be to sand the surface to remove the old pad residue, right? I feel like I am focusing too much on having a runout issue with this swap.
Old 06-10-2016 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeG37
So I got my calipers in, and they look great. I have no issues at the moment that would be associated with runout, but I would like to know if I should be concerned about it by switching out the calipers and putting on new pads? The only thing needing to be done to the rotors would be to sand the surface to remove the old pad residue, right? I feel like I am focusing too much on having a runout issue with this swap.
You don't really need to sand down the rotors unless you were really having some uneven pad related buildup.
Are you going w/ a new pad compound or a you running a new set of the same brand?
If it's the same compound just do a light bed in, if they are a different compound then you could use a scotchbrite pad w/ brake cleaner and get them cleaned up then do a full bed-in w/ your new pads.


BTW, any pics of those fresh calipers?
Old 06-10-2016 | 11:27 PM
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Its a new compound. Hawk 5.0's. Currently have another Hawk line on there but I forget what they are. Either way, I will make sure to bed them in properly. Any idea what a ballpark price for swapping out calipers and installing new pads would be? New brake fluid/bleeding would be done as well. Dont have the tools or the time to do it myself.
Old 06-11-2016 | 07:55 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by JakeG37
Its a new compound. Hawk 5.0's. Currently have another Hawk line on there but I forget what they are. Either way, I will make sure to bed them in properly. Any idea what a ballpark price for swapping out calipers and installing new pads would be? New brake fluid/bleeding would be done as well. Dont have the tools or the time to do it myself.
So you have two full sets of Akebono calipers, sweet!
For a caliper swap w/ fluid flush, should take 3 hours give or take, so about $300 depending on their hourly rate.
Keep us posted on your impressions of those 5.0 pads, getting great reviews from all I've read.
Old 06-13-2016 | 01:59 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by blnewt
So you have two full sets of Akebono calipers, sweet!
For a caliper swap w/ fluid flush, should take 3 hours give or take, so about $300 depending on their hourly rate.
Keep us posted on your impressions of those 5.0 pads, getting great reviews from all I've read.
Well I need to return my original calipers for my core charge to be returned. But, yes, I have two sets at the moment I will be sure to update you on my impression of the 5.0 pads.
Old 06-13-2016 | 08:30 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JakeG37
Well I need to return my original calipers for my core charge to be returned. But, yes, I have two sets at the moment I will be sure to update you on my impression of the 5.0 pads.
How much is the core charge? Might be worth it to sell them on the site, if the core charge isn't too high.
Old 06-20-2016 | 02:49 AM
  #26  
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The core charge was $1600. They are going back However, I would like to show you the fine craftsmanship of my local auto repair shop (who people claim to be the best).






Old 06-20-2016 | 02:51 AM
  #27  
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My brakes squeal like I have never heard before. It seems to be the back brakes but its very loud. Any comments on the butchery? I showed it to a few mechanics and their jaws hit the floor. I only asked them to lightly scuff the surface with a bit of sandpaper or brillow pad. They look beyond repair to me. I ordered some brand new ones and plan to visit the shop tomorrow and have a little talk with the owner.
Old 06-20-2016 | 06:48 PM
  #28  
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Well I have been talking to some other people and they said that's normal for a shop to deglaze a rotor that way. The squealing (only on both back brakes) might be a lack of shims or not putting enough disc brake quiet on it. The shop is going to check it out on Friday and hopefully that takes care of it.
Old 08-13-2016 | 10:11 PM
  #29  
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Well I just swapped out a full set of rotors (same as old ones, EBC slotted) and now I think I feel some runout issues. I need to find a shop with a Pro-Cut on-car lathe to correct any issues. EBC even says this can, and often should be done using the Pro-Cut. Might need to ask an Nissan/Infiniti dealer if they have one.
Old 08-18-2016 | 06:11 PM
  #30  
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You probably need to clean the rust and buildup on your wheel hubs if you feel a little vibration at speed. There should be no need to turn brand new rotors
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