Should I turn my slotted rotors?
#16
Just say no!!!!!
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From: People's Republic of IL
I can't relate to pads on a car, but the following was my experience on the bike.
Changed over to SS lines for the front brake. Can't say lever feel changed drastically. Tried a different compound pads (Ferodo). About the same feel, maybe even worse. They wore out quickly too (~10K miles). Next tried EBC HH compound pads. These were the winner. Hard lever after only a few mm of pull. Good stopping power and feedback.
I wonder if there's air in the line causing the soft pedal.
Changed over to SS lines for the front brake. Can't say lever feel changed drastically. Tried a different compound pads (Ferodo). About the same feel, maybe even worse. They wore out quickly too (~10K miles). Next tried EBC HH compound pads. These were the winner. Hard lever after only a few mm of pull. Good stopping power and feedback.
I wonder if there's air in the line causing the soft pedal.
#17
A soft brake pedal usually has nothing to do with the pads since they are all of similar hardness. A soft pedal is usually due to the brake fluid or the brake lines. When did you replace your brake fluid? Have you tried upgrading to stainless braided brake lines? Both things will help.
The only thing related to pedal feel I can think of for the brake pads would be if your old pads were really worn down and then you switch to new pads. That would not really change the feel, but how long the pedal travels before the brakes engage so new pads could help that feeling.
The only thing related to pedal feel I can think of for the brake pads would be if your old pads were really worn down and then you switch to new pads. That would not really change the feel, but how long the pedal travels before the brakes engage so new pads could help that feeling.
#18
I can't relate to pads on a car, but the following was my experience on the bike.
Changed over to SS lines for the front brake. Can't say lever feel changed drastically. Tried a different compound pads (Ferodo). About the same feel, maybe even worse. They wore out quickly too (~10K miles). Next tried EBC HH compound pads. These were the winner. Hard lever after only a few mm of pull. Good stopping power and feedback.
I wonder if there's air in the line causing the soft pedal.
Changed over to SS lines for the front brake. Can't say lever feel changed drastically. Tried a different compound pads (Ferodo). About the same feel, maybe even worse. They wore out quickly too (~10K miles). Next tried EBC HH compound pads. These were the winner. Hard lever after only a few mm of pull. Good stopping power and feedback.
I wonder if there's air in the line causing the soft pedal.
Once my powder coated calipers come in, I will be getting them installed which will require new fluid/bleeding.
#19
If you are talking about the bite of the brake pads, that will have more to do with the compound of the brake pad.
#20
So I got my calipers in, and they look great. I have no issues at the moment that would be associated with runout, but I would like to know if I should be concerned about it by switching out the calipers and putting on new pads? The only thing needing to be done to the rotors would be to sand the surface to remove the old pad residue, right? I feel like I am focusing too much on having a runout issue with this swap.
#21
So I got my calipers in, and they look great. I have no issues at the moment that would be associated with runout, but I would like to know if I should be concerned about it by switching out the calipers and putting on new pads? The only thing needing to be done to the rotors would be to sand the surface to remove the old pad residue, right? I feel like I am focusing too much on having a runout issue with this swap.
Are you going w/ a new pad compound or a you running a new set of the same brand?
If it's the same compound just do a light bed in, if they are a different compound then you could use a scotchbrite pad w/ brake cleaner and get them cleaned up then do a full bed-in w/ your new pads.
BTW, any pics of those fresh calipers?
#22
Its a new compound. Hawk 5.0's. Currently have another Hawk line on there but I forget what they are. Either way, I will make sure to bed them in properly. Any idea what a ballpark price for swapping out calipers and installing new pads would be? New brake fluid/bleeding would be done as well. Dont have the tools or the time to do it myself.
#23
Its a new compound. Hawk 5.0's. Currently have another Hawk line on there but I forget what they are. Either way, I will make sure to bed them in properly. Any idea what a ballpark price for swapping out calipers and installing new pads would be? New brake fluid/bleeding would be done as well. Dont have the tools or the time to do it myself.
For a caliper swap w/ fluid flush, should take 3 hours give or take, so about $300 depending on their hourly rate.
Keep us posted on your impressions of those 5.0 pads, getting great reviews from all I've read.
#24
Well I need to return my original calipers for my core charge to be returned. But, yes, I have two sets at the moment I will be sure to update you on my impression of the 5.0 pads.
#25
How much is the core charge? Might be worth it to sell them on the site, if the core charge isn't too high.
#27
My brakes squeal like I have never heard before. It seems to be the back brakes but its very loud. Any comments on the butchery? I showed it to a few mechanics and their jaws hit the floor. I only asked them to lightly scuff the surface with a bit of sandpaper or brillow pad. They look beyond repair to me. I ordered some brand new ones and plan to visit the shop tomorrow and have a little talk with the owner.
#28
Well I have been talking to some other people and they said that's normal for a shop to deglaze a rotor that way. The squealing (only on both back brakes) might be a lack of shims or not putting enough disc brake quiet on it. The shop is going to check it out on Friday and hopefully that takes care of it.
#29
Well I just swapped out a full set of rotors (same as old ones, EBC slotted) and now I think I feel some runout issues. I need to find a shop with a Pro-Cut on-car lathe to correct any issues. EBC even says this can, and often should be done using the Pro-Cut. Might need to ask an Nissan/Infiniti dealer if they have one.
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10-15-2015 01:38 PM