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Review Cheap Adjustable Sway Bar End Links

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Old 05-08-2012 | 06:48 PM
  #61  
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I echo what most have already said. Modme has done everyone here a good service. Sure, it probably can be done a bit cheaper... but i doubt it'll be significant. $80 is already a *very* good price and i was happy to give Modme a little more than he asked, even if just a little -- just because he took the initiative and provided us a product that he didn't charge an arm and a leg for.
Old 05-08-2012 | 07:11 PM
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I didn't even buy one (yet) and I think it's perfectly fine for modme to hold back his sources. I don't care if it's DIY community or not, if a guy chooses to hold back, that's his right. I also don't care what his reasons are... be it profit or something more logical as already stated- I'll stand by it.

Good man!
Old 05-08-2012 | 08:10 PM
  #63  
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these totally transformed the rear, i never felt the potential of the eibach sways until installing these end-links, hopefully the fronts come through, they seem to be a problem with everyone.

btw, do you know where nissan gets the sizes for the fronts from, maybe go to their source for some parts
Old 05-08-2012 | 10:57 PM
  #64  
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source deleted. All pm replied
Old 05-08-2012 | 11:00 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by g35sedan5at
these totally transformed the rear, i never felt the potential of the eibach sways until installing these end-links, {snip}
Please elaborate on this. What changed? How does this change manifest itself?
Old 05-08-2012 | 11:02 PM
  #66  
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i guess if members want to pay $80 for something less than $20 it is your choice
Old 05-08-2012 | 11:02 PM
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i guess if members want to pay $80 for something less than $20 it is your choice
Old 05-08-2012 | 11:44 PM
  #68  
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also for parts that under a lot of load. I rather put machined parts. Rather than cast ones.
Old 05-09-2012 | 12:29 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by joo030879
i guess if members want to pay $80 for something less than $20 it is your choice
You're right. It is.
Old 05-09-2012 | 07:55 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by joo030879
also for parts that under a lot of load. I rather put machined parts. Rather than cast ones.
So, i'm curious, what exactly is the point of all your posts? First you think that Modme isn't helping by not posting sources, so you post your own, then you take it down, then try to make folks feel that they've been had, then etc...

It doesn't help much to criticize if you're not providing concrete alternatives.

Yes, it is our choice, otherwise none of us would've bought. There's no need for TC.
Old 05-09-2012 | 08:13 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by joo030879
also for parts that under a lot of load. I rather put machined parts. Rather than cast ones.
What exactly is your plan?

And yes its my choice to buy something for 80$ that cost 20$.. im happy with that....

Why your hating bro? give me one pros about all your posts..
Old 05-09-2012 | 10:25 AM
  #72  
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I was the first to moan, but Modme went through the motions of getting it done.
I gladly purchased a set, install to come Saturday!!

I sure hope he made a few bucks for his trouble.
Research, acquisition, avbance payment, shipping etc.

What our time worth? Spending $80 on these, that would cost $165.00 shipped from Powergrid, and working with a forum brother?

Thank you
Old 05-09-2012 | 10:28 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by joo030879
also for parts that under a lot of load. I rather put machined parts. Rather than cast ones.
The OEM are cast, and have been pretty reliable. These are now adjustable to compensate for geometry changes, and preload. Even if THK is only a small bit better in quality, it's worth it.
Old 05-09-2012 | 11:27 AM
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Let's get the hate/drama out of the way

Can anyone explain to noobs like me what preload is? And what it'll do during a turn?
Old 05-09-2012 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Legz
Let's get the hate/drama out of the way

Can anyone explain to noobs like me what preload is? And what it'll do during a turn?
works for me.

Preload is simply the amount of inherent displacement a spring is put under in its maximum extended state, *when installed*. That is, if the free length of a spring just sitting on your desk and not installed on a shock is 12", and then the measured length when installed on a shock but not installed in a vehicle is 10" then your preload is 2". This amount can be varied by typically adjusting a preload collar, which rides on threads on the shock body. Increasing this amount increases the immediate force required to compress the shock assembly, but it does NOT ALTER SPRING RATE. This is very important, because a lot of folks think adding preload is the same as changing to a heavier spring. It most definitely is not (well, it sort of can be with progressive rate springs but that's another story).

you adjust preload to adjust the relationship between free length and sag, and to tune the initial "bounciness" of the ride. Too much preload as a result of using too light rate of a spring can result in a very jarring and rough ride. That case is a strong reason why preload and spring rate should not be confused (overly light springs can feel overly stiff when loaded up!).

hope this help a bit.


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