Dissapointed with the G37S Brakes.
01-12-2009, 10:40 PM
#16
Registered User
Wish this were the case but my first time at Willow Springs big track was when I was 16 years old. I'm now 26 and have been doing weekend track events for 10 years now. Definitely didn't have to do with my driving. It had more to do with the generation of heat as stated above.
The canyons in which I was running are very narrow and high speed with the occasional hair pin or tight corner which can really drop your speed down hence causing all of the heat on the brakes. I've been to these canyons over a dozen times with other cars and never experienced this problem. I've experienced major fade but never vibration.
Funny thing is once everything has cooled down there is not a hint of vibration left.. really odd.
The canyons in which I was running are very narrow and high speed with the occasional hair pin or tight corner which can really drop your speed down hence causing all of the heat on the brakes. I've been to these canyons over a dozen times with other cars and never experienced this problem. I've experienced major fade but never vibration.
Funny thing is once everything has cooled down there is not a hint of vibration left.. really odd.
5 minutes is still a bit quick for them to fade. I ran streets of willow at 9/10ths for a good 20 minutes and did not have any sort of brake failure, vibration, etc.
the fact that you didn't suffer vibration after is also
btw-which canyon did you run?
01-12-2009, 10:45 PM
#17
I have went on a few canyon cruises with mike up at Palomar. I do not push the G very hard, but I am heavy footed when it comes to braking, and I have never felt the G brakes fade. They stay strong and tight the entire time. I was actually very surprised with them. I think they are pretty good.
01-20-2009, 03:18 PM
#21
I have taken my g up in the mountains and know what youre talking about. Because i know the vibrations will occur, i depend heavyily on down shifting. I am interested in the PMU B force and was wondering if we have to resurface before changing the brakes too...
01-23-2009, 07:57 AM
#24
A quick note on pad replacement and rotor resurfacing....
It is perfectly alright to swap out pads without resurfacing IF,
there is not rotor warpage (9 times out of 10 your rotors aren't warped). In the case of DanMardik it sounds like a pad transfer issue due to operating outside the OEM pads range.
Most modern brake rotors are not produced with enough material to allow them to be safely resurfaced (car manufactures trying to keep wieght down and fuel economy up). There are two ways to safely change pads on a rotor with an uneven transfer layer applied,
1- remove rotor and lightly sand surface with a garnet sand paper or disk (DO NOT USE ALUMI-OXIDE)
2- change out the pads and drive the car easy for the first couple hundred miles, as long as you don't get the pads fully up to temp no new transfer layer will be applied and the higher temp (race) pad will generally be more abrasive removing the old transfer layer down to bare iron before long.
Happy Braking Guys
01-24-2009, 07:21 PM
#25
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Location: Saint Simons Island, GA
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I had this exact problem during a mountain run up in north GA and on the track at Road Atlanta. The steering wheel started to shimmy really bad after just a couple laps. It was so bad I was sure the rotors were warped but after things cooled down the brakes went right back to normal. During everyday driving there is never any problem, but if you really put some heat into them, they start shaking badly. The instructor at the BMW event at Road Atlanta said it was almost certainly a pad issue and not to worry about it unless the shimmy shows up in normal driving...
