Here are my ALIGNMENT specs on fully settled EIBACH springs, no camber kit
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Here are my ALIGNMENT specs on fully settled EIBACH springs, no camber kit
This has been long overdue for me to post these results. Sorry to all those that PMd me about alignment specs after reading the other thread i made with all the before and after pics and review of the springs. I been MAD busy cuz i kinda ended up poppin the question and getting engaged
The paper says 2007 G35, but it was the specs for the 08 G37 as well. Either way, i printed out the specs from the 08 service manual on our cars and it checked out.
Without further ado:
So pretty much the camber is as follows:
Left Front: -1.4
Right Front: -1.6
Left Rear: -2.0
Right Rear: -2.0
The paper says 2007 G35, but it was the specs for the 08 G37 as well. Either way, i printed out the specs from the 08 service manual on our cars and it checked out.
Without further ado:
So pretty much the camber is as follows:
Left Front: -1.4
Right Front: -1.6
Left Rear: -2.0
Right Rear: -2.0
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The springs had about a month or slightly less to fully settle before i went in for the alignment.
I was about to get new tires anyway so i didnt care. 2 birds 1 stone.
Lemme just say, i didnt even think about a camber kit cuz i like havin a lil extra negative camber for the turns. I'm sure i'd even out the tire wear across the width of my tire the way i take exit ramps and such.
The front's camber is not adjustable at all of course w/o a kit, but mine were not that bad out of spec i dont think. I had them set my Rear to -2.0 but i asked him to see how much in spec he cd go if he tried, and it was -1.79.
This performance shop does a very precise laser alignment. They actually are very accustomed to getting requests for very specific alignments from ppl who track their car, and its one of the things they are known for in the area. Normally charges $120, but they run a $99 special about four times a year.
Interesting to note that they measured my front and rear ride height as well. I meant to measure this before i dropped on Eibachs, but forget. Maybe someone else has or can get the stock ride height specs so we can see just how much the Eibach really dropped. At least it looks like both sides settled evenly.
I was about to get new tires anyway so i didnt care. 2 birds 1 stone.
Lemme just say, i didnt even think about a camber kit cuz i like havin a lil extra negative camber for the turns. I'm sure i'd even out the tire wear across the width of my tire the way i take exit ramps and such.
The front's camber is not adjustable at all of course w/o a kit, but mine were not that bad out of spec i dont think. I had them set my Rear to -2.0 but i asked him to see how much in spec he cd go if he tried, and it was -1.79.
This performance shop does a very precise laser alignment. They actually are very accustomed to getting requests for very specific alignments from ppl who track their car, and its one of the things they are known for in the area. Normally charges $120, but they run a $99 special about four times a year.
Interesting to note that they measured my front and rear ride height as well. I meant to measure this before i dropped on Eibachs, but forget. Maybe someone else has or can get the stock ride height specs so we can see just how much the Eibach really dropped. At least it looks like both sides settled evenly.
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So from the looks of things, the alignment didn't do a whole lot. Correct me if I'm reading this wrong, but it looks like the initial/final readings are only different by a few hundredths. Your left rear was the only one that changed considerably. Was this by your request, or was this what you requested? Were the initial readings done before the spring install, or before the alignment?
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thank you! been waiting on something like this forever. ok so from the looks of it...
your fronts arent bad at all. -1.5 camber gives a nice look and the toe is only 0.04. that will still wear a little faster but not crazy at all.
rear camber as well is fine but its the toe thats a bit high.
looks like the best option would be just to get the rear camber arm and toe bolts for under $250 and be set.
your fronts arent bad at all. -1.5 camber gives a nice look and the toe is only 0.04. that will still wear a little faster but not crazy at all.
rear camber as well is fine but its the toe thats a bit high.
looks like the best option would be just to get the rear camber arm and toe bolts for under $250 and be set.
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if you look at Tanabe alignments... the only difference is the front camber... most of the Tanabe user dont have camber kit... but correct me if i am wrong...
https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...nabe+alignment
https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...nabe+alignment
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if you look at Tanabe alignments... the only difference is the front camber... most of the Tanabe user dont have camber kit... but correct me if i am wrong...
https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...nabe+alignment
https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...nabe+alignment
The numbers used for "specs" on that sheet you linked to look off from every other alignment sheet I've seen. -1.8 camber is in spec.....
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^^ i kno that -1.8 is indeed within specs for the REAR. It is on the very HIGH end of the acceptable range, but within spec.
For the rear the exact MAX spec, taken from the service manual, is -1.83. The exact MIN spec is -0.83. The middle ground they shoot for at factory is -1.33.
Guys, as far as the toe is concerned... particularly the rear toe... i blv i asked them to give me the most aggressive toe WHILE keeping it within specs. I'll hafta double check next time im there whether they cda got the TOE back to perfect if i wanted.
I think i shall monitor my tire wear carefully tho.
For the rear the exact MAX spec, taken from the service manual, is -1.83. The exact MIN spec is -0.83. The middle ground they shoot for at factory is -1.33.
Guys, as far as the toe is concerned... particularly the rear toe... i blv i asked them to give me the most aggressive toe WHILE keeping it within specs. I'll hafta double check next time im there whether they cda got the TOE back to perfect if i wanted.
I think i shall monitor my tire wear carefully tho.
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So from the looks of things, the alignment didn't do a whole lot. Correct me if I'm reading this wrong, but it looks like the initial/final readings are only different by a few hundredths. Your left rear was the only one that changed considerably. Was this by your request, or was this what you requested? Were the initial readings done before the spring install, or before the alignment?
Alignment def worth it to correct the toe, and like you said... that rear left wheel was WAY off. Wda proved detrimental in the long run.
Initial is the snapshot they took of the car just before they did alignment. He came out, talked to me about where im at, and then we talked bout where i wanna be at and such. Then he went back in, did the alignment, and thus... FINAL numbers!
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oh yea... and appreciate the all the congrats, guys! Lookin to get married in May...
she has already driven the G a few times... once for a couple hours on a long trip with me.
She says that she is toatlly stealing this car from me... Perhaps time to buy an 09... His and Hers G???
DOMO
she has already driven the G a few times... once for a couple hours on a long trip with me.
She says that she is toatlly stealing this car from me... Perhaps time to buy an 09... His and Hers G???
DOMO
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You are correct. Looking back at several of the G37 spec sheets, actually show that they were run with the G35 numbers. The one sheet I found with the G37 numbers does indeed list -1.8 as being in range. Seems the G37 runs with a little more camber then the G35 does.
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thank you! been waiting on something like this forever. ok so from the looks of it...
your fronts arent bad at all. -1.5 camber gives a nice look and the toe is only 0.04. that will still wear a little faster but not crazy at all.
rear camber as well is fine but its the toe thats a bit high.
looks like the best option would be just to get the rear camber arm and toe bolts for under $250 and be set.
your fronts arent bad at all. -1.5 camber gives a nice look and the toe is only 0.04. that will still wear a little faster but not crazy at all.
rear camber as well is fine but its the toe thats a bit high.
looks like the best option would be just to get the rear camber arm and toe bolts for under $250 and be set.
I'm sure he requested for the toe for both front and rear to be as aggressive as possible within spec, and there is a very good reason for this. I had a really good alignment shop explain to me the reason for this preference, and here is the explanation, which completely makes sense:
When you run negative camber, you put more stress on the inner side of the tires (obviously), in which case if your toe is pointing out (looking somewhat like this from the top of the car \\ // - don't confuse this with camber, this is looking as if you were on top of the hood facing forward and looking down) then you're forcing even more wear on the inner side of the tire; the combination of negative camber and toe-out is a big inner tire killer. Now, if you set your toe to point in - again looking like this // \\), it somewhat offsets the effects of the negative camber by forcing a more "even" wear on the tire surface - and this is the way he currently has it set. I ran the same setup on my G35 when I had it dropped and aligned, and I will be doing the same with my G37.
I hope my explanation made sense
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^^ great explanation. thanks for sharing. i wd hope thats right... for my sake. lol
i DID ask em to gimmie most aggressive toe while in spec. if this configuration helps in conjunction with negative camber, then awesome! i told em, i like to turn and make full use of this car and i would AutoX maybe once or twice a year at most. They set it up accordingly.
i DID ask em to gimmie most aggressive toe while in spec. if this configuration helps in conjunction with negative camber, then awesome! i told em, i like to turn and make full use of this car and i would AutoX maybe once or twice a year at most. They set it up accordingly.
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You're going to wear those tires out quickly! -2.0 camber in the back is more than enough to do that. I suggest u get a camber kit. My fronts are at -2.0 camber and my tire wear is extremely uneven, but I have no choice since the front camber kit isn't out yet. I had -4.1 camber in the back before the camber kit lol and right now i'm at -1.2 and it's perfect handling-wise.
But by all means if you like the negative camber go for it.
But by all means if you like the negative camber go for it.