Here are my ALIGNMENT specs on fully settled EIBACH springs, no camber kit
#16
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You're going to wear those tires out quickly! -2.0 camber in the back is more than enough to do that. I suggest u get a camber kit. My fronts are at -2.0 camber and my tire wear is extremely uneven, but I have no choice since the front camber kit isn't out yet. I had -4.1 camber in the back before the camber kit lol and right now i'm at -1.2 and it's perfect handling-wise.
But by all means if you like the negative camber go for it.
But by all means if you like the negative camber go for it.
What determines your bad wear is mostly toe....go get yours checked. Now if you're running -4.0 camber then your car has issues.
#17
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^^ great explanation. thanks for sharing. i wd hope thats right... for my sake. lol
i DID ask em to gimmie most aggressive toe while in spec. if this configuration helps in conjunction with negative camber, then awesome! i told em, i like to turn and make full use of this car and i would AutoX maybe once or twice a year at most. They set it up accordingly.
i DID ask em to gimmie most aggressive toe while in spec. if this configuration helps in conjunction with negative camber, then awesome! i told em, i like to turn and make full use of this car and i would AutoX maybe once or twice a year at most. They set it up accordingly.
#19
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i think its a matter of like or dislike at this point... sorta like w/e makes u sleep better at night.
you can get the negative camber on the rears back within spec... the fronts seem to be varied but not TTOO bad out of spec. I felt ok running a lil extra in the rear... and im not worried.
Toe is really what wears out tires in a hurry, i'll keep an eye on it and time can only tell i guess. If anything, the COSTCO near me mounts and balances for $40 per car. Luckily the manager there is nice to me, and is a car enthusiast as well. So he knows what it means not to scratch the rims. He always does the tire work on my car himself. Soo, i'll just get a LEFT <----> RIGHT roation done from him by dismounting and remount tires.
you can get the negative camber on the rears back within spec... the fronts seem to be varied but not TTOO bad out of spec. I felt ok running a lil extra in the rear... and im not worried.
Toe is really what wears out tires in a hurry, i'll keep an eye on it and time can only tell i guess. If anything, the COSTCO near me mounts and balances for $40 per car. Luckily the manager there is nice to me, and is a car enthusiast as well. So he knows what it means not to scratch the rims. He always does the tire work on my car himself. Soo, i'll just get a LEFT <----> RIGHT roation done from him by dismounting and remount tires.
#20
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i should also mention that i now have all season tires with a tread rating of 500... so thats pretty hard and will last. If u have the soft, soft 140 tread rated OEM tires, then maybe ud start to see the uneven wear after a good amount of time.
#21
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I went a while with my rear camber and toe on crackrock and I burned through a set of brand new Toyos that i put on the first on AUGUST... so my rear tires lasted me 4 months... be very careful when aligning your rears or you will have bald boyz in a matter of months!! Im still shocked my tires are gone after 4 months...
#22
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I thought the OEM tires couldn't be swapped out left<-->right? I know they're unidirectional, and I know they can't simply be rotated, but I was also told that they can't be dismounted/remounted left<-->right either. It sounded crazy to me at the time because they certainly look symmetrical, and I was planning on doing the same thing, but is it acceptable or just a cheap work-around for negative camber tire wear?
#25
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well then oyu did not answer him either then and i will.
OK here is the deal they are directional tires so you can go left right only if you dismount them off the rims. The only reason a tire shop might tell you not to do this is there is a inside and out side to all tires. In the tire manufacturing biz it is called the reference and anti-reference side. The tire has tighter finishing tolerances on the anti reference side of the tire so that is the side of the tire you would want pointed to the street. However 99% of the time there is no difference in the quality between the 2 sides. They are balanced and grinned at factory with the intention that the anti ref side will be pointed out to the street. So long story short if you dismount them you will be ok and most tire shopes don't even know this.
OK here is the deal they are directional tires so you can go left right only if you dismount them off the rims. The only reason a tire shop might tell you not to do this is there is a inside and out side to all tires. In the tire manufacturing biz it is called the reference and anti-reference side. The tire has tighter finishing tolerances on the anti reference side of the tire so that is the side of the tire you would want pointed to the street. However 99% of the time there is no difference in the quality between the 2 sides. They are balanced and grinned at factory with the intention that the anti ref side will be pointed out to the street. So long story short if you dismount them you will be ok and most tire shopes don't even know this.
#27
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I fixed the -4 camber in the back. I had that much negative camber bc of how low the springs dropped the car. I am in spec right now, and my toe is also in spec in the front and the rear. I have -2.0 camber in the front and my tires ARE wearing unevenly even with the toe being in factory spec. It definitely has to be the negative camber. What else would it be?
#28
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i never said positive toe is good. you want 0.0 toe for the most even wear. either + or - toe will cause more wear on your tires. you can run high negative camber with 0 toe and be fine.
#30
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As I previously stated, some cars come stock with a negative camber higher than the one that the Eibach's give you...it's a matter of making sure that all the alignment components are reasonably within spec, mainly toe.
I had about a year out of my first set of tires after dropping my previous car (G35 coupe) on Eibach's and NO camber arms, thanks to the alignment.