Blk-G35

I could be just imagining but when I cornering the same freeway exit before and after the mod I don't hear much tire squeaking sounds that I used to hear at the same speed. Perhaps the tire contact patch might be better with additional camber due to the spacer installation.

The rear stands now looks much better with spacer and it almost seem like lowering spring is installed. I'm planning on getting 10mm spacer for front as well and this time I'll take some step by step pictures for anyone who might be interested in doing same thing.

With this mods I don't think I'll need lowering springs anymore for my car.

blknsxy1

Great! This is a good altenative to lowering, as for the cities I drive in, I can't go lower. So what is a good supplier for the spacers.

sahiwal007

iTrader: (1)

plz post some far away pics

Blk-G35

I've got my rear spacer from EBAY because it was cheap but the quality of the spacer was pretty good. Only thing that I didn't like about it is the material of the new stub which seem to be not as good as OEM stud. It looks like it was made with softer steel or something.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/15MM-...spagenameZWDVW

Blk-G35

I'll post something once I have front spacer installed.

Jason@Riverside

iTrader: (14)

Never mind... The guy didnt know what he was talking about and I took him seriously till I researched myself...

hehe

symalik

can any one explain what the process is to change wheel studs? And how hard is it? Can it be done at home? And do i need any special tools?

NasaMan

You can take the calipers off in one piece; you don't have to separate them. The big bolts are tough, but if you turn the wheel you're working on out as far as you can, you can get good leverage on it with an 18" breaker bar. Just squat them up on the dr side and put all your weight down on the pass side and they'll come loose.

Here's the procedure I use:

Tools needed:
-Jack/stand
-ratchet/sockets
-breaker bar
-hammer
-WD-40
-LARGE adjustable wrench
-lug wrench
-hammer
-two old lug nuts, one to pound the studs out, one to draw the new ones in
-wire hanger
-gloves

Procedure:
1. jack up corner and secure on jack stand after loosening lugs (parking brake must NOT be set when doing rear)
2. remove wheel/tire
3. remove brake caliper and hang out of way with wire hanger from spring
4. remove brake rotor
5. spray base of wheel studs with WD-40 and allow to penetrate
6. screw old lug nut onto the end one of the studs
7. tap stud out of the hub with hammer (steady, moderate taps; don't POUND it.)
8. remove lug nut from the loose stud
9. pull out stock stud from rear of hub (easy on the front; at the rear, you have to rotate the hub to just the right spot to get it out and the new one in b/c of the parking brake assembly)
10. insert new stud and align splines as best you can to match the hub. (a little more WD-40 here won't hurt)
11. screw the other lug nut onto the stud all the way to the hub
12. use deep socket and ratchet to tighten the nut as much as possible, drawing the splines of the new stud into the hub. When it gets too hard to do like this or the hub begins to turn on you, brace the hub by wedging a long breaker bar between two other studs and resting the end of it on the floor, so the hub can't turn, then crank the nut down and draw the stud in the rest of the way with the large adjustable wrench (this is neccessary on the front; on the rear, you can just put the car in P here and in N to rotate the hub. Be careful, though and block your front wheels, as you'll have the P brake off and be in N).
13. repeat for the other four studs at that corner.
14. re-install brake rotor
15. re-install caliper
16. slide on spacer
17. mount wheel
18. lower corner and torque lugs
19. repeat entire procedure on other three corners
20. re-torque the lug nuts after driving it the first time and check the torque every couple of days for a couple weeks or so after the install. You may not be able to draw the studs in completely, so as you drive and lateral forces are applied from the wheels, they will seat the rest of the way, neccessitating re-tourquing the lug nuts.
21. Take pics and post them up.

G37RacerX

Nice writeup.
#21 had me on the floor.

Habakak

Hi everyone. I've been reading the forums for a while now. Finally I'm getting my G37S TONIGHT!!! Liquid platinum with everything except tech package (GPS, backup camera and 4WAS). Hi-5!!

The reason I'm posting here is because I also only want to do rear wheel spacers. From the photos posted here I can't really see a drastic change, or should I say the change I was looking for. Would 20mm spacers be excessive? I want the effect to be visible, but not over the top. I want to be able to see that the rear wheel stance is wider than the front wheels, but not with the wheels jutting out. If they stick out by 2-5mm it's OK, but preferably no more than 2mm.

NasaMan

1/ Yes, 20mm is too much, either just the rear or all around. You don't want it looks too obvious, do you.? IMO, 10mm or no more 15mm.
2/ Huh? What are you saying, I don't get it.
I would love to see 245-40-19 tires of front and 275-35-19 on the rear and not putting the wheel spacers on. I think this is the niciest set up. TireRack has OEM brand BridgeStone 050A with size 275-35-19 tires now for $263/ea. Have fun with your new baby.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....e1=yes&place=0