Upgrading the original Sport Brakes
#76
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I did stainless lines on my WRX some years back, and it the pedal was indeed solid when I was done. I have a feeling I’ll eventually give in and get a set for the G37.
The EBCs dusted like crazy bedding in, but the Yellows have a top layer to the friction material that helps prep the rotor surface by essentially sanding it as it quickly wears off. I just gave the wheels a thorough cleaning two days ago, and will be able to get a feel for how they are in the coming weeks.
The coating sure seems to do its job though, because the rotor surface lost the uneven dark rings that were forming from the previous pads. So far, they’re definitely worth the higher price.
The EBCs dusted like crazy bedding in, but the Yellows have a top layer to the friction material that helps prep the rotor surface by essentially sanding it as it quickly wears off. I just gave the wheels a thorough cleaning two days ago, and will be able to get a feel for how they are in the coming weeks.
The coating sure seems to do its job though, because the rotor surface lost the uneven dark rings that were forming from the previous pads. So far, they’re definitely worth the higher price.
Do you mean because of the double bleed screws on the Akebono calipers?
#77
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I'm going to double-post this, since the discussion is here and in my build thread.
Sue me. Moderator. (LOL)
Sue me. Moderator. (LOL)
Just brought the car home. Didn't go anywhere but from the shop to the house, through city streets, with my kid following me. So I can't speak to any observations beyond simple braking, which is awesome. However, I can't get on it hard, because Akebono recommends 500 miles of light braking first. But the braking such as it is right now is rock solid. As it should be... original brakes at 45k miles replaced with these rotors and brand new sport pads. Oh, and I had them flush, fill and bleed the lines. So brand new fluid is certainly a welcome change.
So at the moment I have nothing to say. And I'm not even taking pics yet, because everything is dirty what with the rain this morning. As for how they look to me... freaking gorgeous. It screams serious hardware. Curious to note that I think the rears look better than the fronts. Maybe because the sprinkle slot pattern is tighter in the rear. IDK
$100 for the flush & fill and fluid, 3.0 hours of premium (bring your own parts) labor, plus tax...this was a $430 install. Add to that $144 for the pads, and $982 for the Black Friday rotors.
All in, this project came to $1556. The wife isn't happy, but the numbers look good to me.
So at the moment I have nothing to say. And I'm not even taking pics yet, because everything is dirty what with the rain this morning. As for how they look to me... freaking gorgeous. It screams serious hardware. Curious to note that I think the rears look better than the fronts. Maybe because the sprinkle slot pattern is tighter in the rear. IDK
$100 for the flush & fill and fluid, 3.0 hours of premium (bring your own parts) labor, plus tax...this was a $430 install. Add to that $144 for the pads, and $982 for the Black Friday rotors.
All in, this project came to $1556. The wife isn't happy, but the numbers look good to me.
#78
Registered Member
That's interesting. I had some sort of EBC pad on my WRX for street use too a million years ago. I forget which type of pad exactly, but I remembered liking them. I think they were all the rage back then, but I don't remember them having a different coating for the break-in period. That seems odd as most brake pads bed in just fine without it, but it sounds like it works.
Do you mean because of the double bleed screws on the Akebono calipers?
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4DRZ (05-06-2020)
#79
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Review Time
Nearly two weeks later, and I've really only driven the car a few times. And for the most part those were short, local trips, city & suburban driving. Hit a few highway ramps, did some hard launches, and highway runs. All in all, I have to say I was feeling really underwhelmed. I didn't get any sense that the car was handling any better, or accelerating any better. Granted, it definitely feels like the rear tires break on the pavement easier off the line, so there's a small user-adjustment there for throttle pressure. But a "performance mod"? I don't know about that. Here, I wrote this over in my build thread:
Disappointing, huh? Well, then this happened the other day:
And some quick pics in the garage this morning:
Been sitting for a few days, and finally took it out again. Braking is really better than before, like much, much better. Now I know it replaces the original pads and rotors after 45k miles, so of course it's going to be better, but damn... braking is excellent now. The pedal is smooth, confident and silent. Looking forward to getting past Akebono's break-in rec.
The other thing I noticed today was a lot more subtle. Seems at hard launch the rear end is breaking loose more easily than I'm used to. There's only 5 lbs reduced on each rear rotor, but I swear the tires are squealing on throttle pressure earlier than I'm familiar with. It's a very minor adjustment, and will quickly become a new normal.
That said, I'd probably be equally enthusiastic about any new pads, and a simple OEM rotor replacement. I'm not claiming any regrets, but in hindsight I could have had perfectly fine all-new brakes *and* a tune for nearly the same money spent on this project.
The other thing I noticed today was a lot more subtle. Seems at hard launch the rear end is breaking loose more easily than I'm used to. There's only 5 lbs reduced on each rear rotor, but I swear the tires are squealing on throttle pressure earlier than I'm familiar with. It's a very minor adjustment, and will quickly become a new normal.
That said, I'd probably be equally enthusiastic about any new pads, and a simple OEM rotor replacement. I'm not claiming any regrets, but in hindsight I could have had perfectly fine all-new brakes *and* a tune for nearly the same money spent on this project.
Just got back from an errand, and took a highway extension nearby which intersects with 4 tight little round-abouts. It's a fun romp, not one you'd want to take too fast because of the high curbs, but if you're alert and safe then you can push the car enough to get into the moment. Rev-match from 3rd down to 2nd as you approach the round-about, ride the curve just below where the tires would squeal, then power into the straight-away and rev out into 3rd gear again with a little chirp. Rinse & repeat every quarter mile.
https://www.google.com/maps/@43.2255...5447196,17.22z
Anyway, I came away from that with the distinct feeling of improved steering. Don't shoot me for using this word, but the steering is lighter. More than just that, it feels more stable, more planted in a sharp turn. It's really the first time since the brake upgrade that I drove the car like this, and was genuinely surprised by what I experienced.
It's got to be these lightweight front rotors... 10 lbs from each corner.
I wonder what it would be like if I did an auto-x event this year? I normally suck at those, but I suspect the way the car is configured today that it would shine. (If I can see which cones to stay between. My biggest problem, really, is recognizing the track.)
https://www.google.com/maps/@43.2255...5447196,17.22z
Anyway, I came away from that with the distinct feeling of improved steering. Don't shoot me for using this word, but the steering is lighter. More than just that, it feels more stable, more planted in a sharp turn. It's really the first time since the brake upgrade that I drove the car like this, and was genuinely surprised by what I experienced.
It's got to be these lightweight front rotors... 10 lbs from each corner.
I wonder what it would be like if I did an auto-x event this year? I normally suck at those, but I suspect the way the car is configured today that it would shine. (If I can see which cones to stay between. My biggest problem, really, is recognizing the track.)
Last edited by Rochester; 05-17-2020 at 07:07 AM.
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bikezilla (05-21-2020)
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Rochester (05-21-2020)
#82
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I'd like to hear your comments on driving the car hard in low-speed turns, like whipping through a round-about. If you haven't driven the car looking for changes like that, you might be surprised how well it handles those situations now.
#83
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Thanks! You certainly have more lively style ambitions than I do. Hydrodipped hats, matching calipers, and a **** Tu Clan logo. Wow.
I'd like to hear your comments on driving the car hard in low-speed turns, like whipping through a round-about. If you haven't driven the car looking for changes like that, you might be surprised how well it handles those situations now.
I'd like to hear your comments on driving the car hard in low-speed turns, like whipping through a round-about. If you haven't driven the car looking for changes like that, you might be surprised how well it handles those situations now.
I'll be looking for the handling and responsiveness changes as you described for sure.
#87
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They've been doing engine parts and calipers for a few years now.
I haven't seen any complaints. I have no idea if anyone tracks on them or only if they are only used on daily drivers and show cars.
Hydro-diping is basically a process where they lay a decal or pattern over a painted surface, then clear coat it.
There are all kinds of amazing funky decals in all kinds of colors.
A part is painted then dipped into a tank. A decal sheet is floated above it. when the part is raised up the decal wraps over the part.
It's dried, cured and clear coated.
#88
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iTrader: (7)
Regarding heating:
They've been doing engine parts and calipers for a few years now.
I haven't seen any complaints. I have no idea if anyone tracks on them or only if they are only used on daily drivers and show cars.
Hydro-diping is basically a process where they lay a decal or pattern over a painted surface, then clear coat it.
There are all kinds of amazing funky decals in all kinds of colors.
A part is painted then dipped into a tank. A decal sheet is floated above it. when the part is raised up the decal wraps over the part.
It's dried, cured and clear coated.
They've been doing engine parts and calipers for a few years now.
I haven't seen any complaints. I have no idea if anyone tracks on them or only if they are only used on daily drivers and show cars.
Hydro-diping is basically a process where they lay a decal or pattern over a painted surface, then clear coat it.
There are all kinds of amazing funky decals in all kinds of colors.
A part is painted then dipped into a tank. A decal sheet is floated above it. when the part is raised up the decal wraps over the part.
It's dried, cured and clear coated.
#90
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iTrader: (9)
A couple months later, and I'm still under the 500 mile break-in period, meaning I've still not pounded on the new brakes and have no follow-up yet on braking performance.
However, I did have a quiet, Zen-moment this morning. I was washing the car just after sunrise, before the sun & heat would make car-washing unbearable. And damn, these brakes really do look amazing! I love how serious this set-up looks... the Vossens, the stance, the big calipers and 2-piece rotors. I've had this car for over 8 years, and it still manages to impress me.
However, I did have a quiet, Zen-moment this morning. I was washing the car just after sunrise, before the sun & heat would make car-washing unbearable. And damn, these brakes really do look amazing! I love how serious this set-up looks... the Vossens, the stance, the big calipers and 2-piece rotors. I've had this car for over 8 years, and it still manages to impress me.