Lowering springs question
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Help
I have a 2010 G37 Sedan, I recently put on Manzo lowering springs, I went to get my wheel alignment and the place told me that they couldn’t do the alignment if I don’t get 4 new control arms, (1k-1500$ I’m not trying to spend) and they said I’m eating my tires away at 2 degrees. Can someone confirm I have to get New control arms or should I just go to another place?
Last edited by Jordan Ramon; 05-21-2019 at 01:27 PM.
#2
Registered Member
iTrader: (5)
I have a 2010 G37 Sedan, I recently put on Manzo lowering springs, I went to get my wheel alignment and the place told me that they couldn’t do the alignment if I don’t get 4 new control arms, (1k-1500$ I’m not trying to spend) and they said I’m eating my tires away at 2 degrees. Can someone confirm I have to get New control arms or should I just go to another place?
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Jordan Ramon (05-21-2019)
#3
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
How low did the springs drop the car?...the shop may not be able to get the car into "spec" without aftermarket front upper control arms to adjust camber and may think you need adjustable rear camber arms in the rear (you may be able to get away with bolts instead on the rears) to do the same. without adjustable arms you are probably running some negative camber ( the "2 degrees", which is probably -2 degrees) which will wear your tires unevenly, but lots of people run -2 degrees of camber and are fine and just replace their tires sooner.
IIRC you can get front and rear adjustable camber arms for around 500-600 maybe less depending on the brand
other than the camber a shop that knows what its doing may be able to adjust toe within spec which is much more important for tire wear....yo umay have ot go to a shop that specifically does alignments on lowered cars
IIRC you can get front and rear adjustable camber arms for around 500-600 maybe less depending on the brand
other than the camber a shop that knows what its doing may be able to adjust toe within spec which is much more important for tire wear....yo umay have ot go to a shop that specifically does alignments on lowered cars
#4
Registered Member
Thread Starter
How low did the springs drop the car?...the shop may not be able to get the car into "spec" without aftermarket front upper control arms to adjust camber and may think you need adjustable rear camber arms in the rear (you may be able to get away with bolts instead on the rears) to do the same. without adjustable arms you are probably running some negative camber ( the "2 degrees", which is probably -2 degrees) which will wear your tires unevenly, but lots of people run -2 degrees of camber and are fine and just replace their tires sooner.
IIRC you can get front and rear adjustable camber arms for around 500-600 maybe less depending on the brand
other than the camber a shop that knows what its doing may be able to adjust toe within spec which is much more important for tire wear....yo umay have ot go to a shop that specifically does alignments on lowered cars
IIRC you can get front and rear adjustable camber arms for around 500-600 maybe less depending on the brand
other than the camber a shop that knows what its doing may be able to adjust toe within spec which is much more important for tire wear....yo umay have ot go to a shop that specifically does alignments on lowered cars
Last edited by Jordan Ramon; 05-21-2019 at 01:58 PM.
#6
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Thats a pretty large drop. to be in spec means to be within the manufacturers specifications for alignment which is usually camber, toe and castor, when you lower a car it changes these parameters, some people prefer more negative camber than the manufacturers recommendations, a shop that does alignments on lowered cars will understand this
#7
How handy are you w/tools?
Not hard at all to install the front control arms (3 bolts).
Rears are easy. Biggest PITA is grinding out the hole more w/a dremel for the bolts. But will take about 20 mins.
I'm running -2.1 camber. Spec is -1.8 at the most. You maybe good as is for awhile unless the springs will settle more.
Not hard at all to install the front control arms (3 bolts).
Rears are easy. Biggest PITA is grinding out the hole more w/a dremel for the bolts. But will take about 20 mins.
I'm running -2.1 camber. Spec is -1.8 at the most. You maybe good as is for awhile unless the springs will settle more.
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#9
Registered Member
Thread Starter
How handy are you w/tools?
Not hard at all to install the front control arms (3 bolts).
Rears are easy. Biggest PITA is grinding out the hole more w/a dremel for the bolts. But will take about 20 mins.
I'm running -2.1 camber. Spec is -1.8 at the most. You maybe good as is for awhile unless the springs will settle more.
Not hard at all to install the front control arms (3 bolts).
Rears are easy. Biggest PITA is grinding out the hole more w/a dremel for the bolts. But will take about 20 mins.
I'm running -2.1 camber. Spec is -1.8 at the most. You maybe good as is for awhile unless the springs will settle more.
#10
Registered Member
Thread Starter
#11
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Thats a pretty large drop. to be in spec means to be within the manufacturers specifications for alignment which is usually camber, toe and castor, when you lower a car it changes these parameters, some people prefer more negative camber than the manufacturers recommendations, a shop that does alignments on lowered cars will understand this
#12
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Lets say I get a 4 piece camber set on ebay, is all of that included ? Or do I have to get toe bolts and a whole camber kit?
#15
Hi everyone, I have a 2013 g37x coupe, I recently installed swift lowering springs and noticed that my passenger front had more negative camber than the driver front. It's really off and you can tell by just looking at the wheel that it's not the same at all(I have the alignment sheet attached below). I got recommendations to get front-camber arms, but I need to know the issue first because I believe one side is sitting lower than the other. I measured the bottom of the wheel to the fender and it's off by a 1/4 of an inch on one side. people are telling me it's a bad strut, I just can't seem to wrap my head around the issue. Any recommendations would highly be appreciated.