Need advice on brakes/rotors on a budget
#1
Need advice on brakes/rotors on a budget
Hi Guys,
My 09 G37 coupe Based model is needing a brake job. Im not too car savy.. but the pads are starting to squeak.. and Im experiencing some vibration/shaking when Im slowing down on the freeway. Im guessing, based on research that my rotors need to be replaced. Im on a tight budget right now, and will be doing the front brake pads/rotors this month, and then doing the rear next month.
My questions. . .
1. Should I do the front before the rear? Or vise versa? What would likely be causing the juddering/shaking? Front rotors or rear?
2. Im thinking of going with the akebono Pads with Centric 120.42080 Premium Brake Rotor with E-Coating. Rotor costs $60 each. Is this a good rotor?
3. What size rotors does the g37 coupe base model have ? 320mm on front and rear?
Thanks for the help guys!
My 09 G37 coupe Based model is needing a brake job. Im not too car savy.. but the pads are starting to squeak.. and Im experiencing some vibration/shaking when Im slowing down on the freeway. Im guessing, based on research that my rotors need to be replaced. Im on a tight budget right now, and will be doing the front brake pads/rotors this month, and then doing the rear next month.
My questions. . .
1. Should I do the front before the rear? Or vise versa? What would likely be causing the juddering/shaking? Front rotors or rear?
2. Im thinking of going with the akebono Pads with Centric 120.42080 Premium Brake Rotor with E-Coating. Rotor costs $60 each. Is this a good rotor?
3. What size rotors does the g37 coupe base model have ? 320mm on front and rear?
Thanks for the help guys!
#2
Hi Guys,
My 09 G37 coupe Based model is needing a brake job. Im not too car savy.. but the pads are starting to squeak.. and Im experiencing some vibration/shaking when Im slowing down on the freeway. Im guessing, based on research that my rotors need to be replaced. Im on a tight budget right now, and will be doing the front brake pads/rotors this month, and then doing the rear next month.
My questions. . .
1. Should I do the front before the rear? Or vise versa? What would likely be causing the juddering/shaking? Front rotors or rear?
2. Im thinking of going with the akebono Pads with Centric 120.42080 Premium Brake Rotor with E-Coating. Rotor costs $60 each. Is this a good rotor?
3. What size rotors does the g37 coupe base model have ? 320mm on front and rear?
Thanks for the help guys!
My 09 G37 coupe Based model is needing a brake job. Im not too car savy.. but the pads are starting to squeak.. and Im experiencing some vibration/shaking when Im slowing down on the freeway. Im guessing, based on research that my rotors need to be replaced. Im on a tight budget right now, and will be doing the front brake pads/rotors this month, and then doing the rear next month.
My questions. . .
1. Should I do the front before the rear? Or vise versa? What would likely be causing the juddering/shaking? Front rotors or rear?
2. Im thinking of going with the akebono Pads with Centric 120.42080 Premium Brake Rotor with E-Coating. Rotor costs $60 each. Is this a good rotor?
3. What size rotors does the g37 coupe base model have ? 320mm on front and rear?
Thanks for the help guys!
You might try several hard braking cycles to scrub your rotors and see if that helps~find a safe stretch of road where you can go up to 60mph, then a firm braking down to 10mph, do this 5-6 times but don't come to a complete stop, then drive for several miles to cool down. Then check to see if the judder is eliminated or at least decreased. If that's the case you may just need new pads if they're worn to the point of replacement.
Uneven pad deposits are usually the main cause of judder.
If it doesn't help here's the Centric #s for their premium line, and it's a good choice, better venting and rust control over OEM. And your base coupe runs a 330/330mm front & rear rotor set.
from RockAuto
Front CENTRIC 12042095 $57.79
Rear CENTRIC 12042093 $38.79
If you do need (or want) to get new pads/rotors I would do the whole set at once, you should do a full flush & bleed w/ a synthetic Dot4 fluid (a quart is enough), you really wouldn't want to bleed it again just a month later.
Last edited by blnewt; 08-04-2016 at 09:24 AM.
#3
How many miles on your 09?
You might try several hard braking cycles to scrub your rotors and see if that helps~find a safe stretch of road where you can go up to 60mph, then a firm braking down to 10mph, do this 5-6 times but don't come to a complete stop, then drive for several miles to cool down. Then check to see if the judder is eliminated or at least decreased. If that's the case you may just need new pads if they're worn to the point of replacement.
Uneven pad deposits are usually the main cause of judder.
If it doesn't help here's the Centric #s for their premium line, and it's a good choice, better venting and rust control over OEM. And your base coupe runs a 330/330mm front & rear rotor set.
from RockAuto
Front CENTRIC 12042095 $57.79
Rear CENTRIC 12042093 $38.79
If you do need (or want) to get new pads/rotors I would do the whole set at once, you should do a full flush & bleed w/ a synthetic Dot4 fluid (a quart is enough), you really wouldn't want to bleed it again just a month later.
You might try several hard braking cycles to scrub your rotors and see if that helps~find a safe stretch of road where you can go up to 60mph, then a firm braking down to 10mph, do this 5-6 times but don't come to a complete stop, then drive for several miles to cool down. Then check to see if the judder is eliminated or at least decreased. If that's the case you may just need new pads if they're worn to the point of replacement.
Uneven pad deposits are usually the main cause of judder.
If it doesn't help here's the Centric #s for their premium line, and it's a good choice, better venting and rust control over OEM. And your base coupe runs a 330/330mm front & rear rotor set.
from RockAuto
Front CENTRIC 12042095 $57.79
Rear CENTRIC 12042093 $38.79
If you do need (or want) to get new pads/rotors I would do the whole set at once, you should do a full flush & bleed w/ a synthetic Dot4 fluid (a quart is enough), you really wouldn't want to bleed it again just a month later.
Hi thanks for your reply. My G has 124k miles on it. I bought it used so I don't know when the last brake job was.. I'm assuming it's been a while because when I'm braking on the freeway it shudders very bad! Even passengers can feel the shaking..
#4
As usual, blnewt is 100% right. I was typing out essentially the exact same response but he beat me to it. I bought those same rotors for 3 different cars with great results. Centric is an OEM manufacturer of may of the more "high end" expensive rotors. Made from the exact same blanks that Centric sells much cheaper. But don't tell the guys with brand names on their rotors that paid hundreds more.
The shudder is probably from brake pad deposits on your rotors. Changing them will cure that if you bed in the new pads correctly
The shudder is probably from brake pad deposits on your rotors. Changing them will cure that if you bed in the new pads correctly
#5
As usual, blnewt is 100% right. I was typing out essentially the exact same response but he beat me to it. I bought those same rotors for 3 different cars with great results. Centric is an OEM manufacturer of may of the more "high end" expensive rotors. Made from the exact same blanks that Centric sells much cheaper. But don't tell the guys with brand names on their rotors that paid hundreds more.
The shudder is probably from brake pad deposits on your rotors. Changing them will cure that if you bed in the new pads correctly
The shudder is probably from brake pad deposits on your rotors. Changing them will cure that if you bed in the new pads correctly
Thanks guys. I guess I'll just buy the pads then. Do you guys know the part numbers for the Akebono front and rear pads? And also.. Are you guys certain that I don't need rotors? Is there a way for me to inspect the rotor myself to see if I need them? I'm not really mechanically inclined.. So I don't really know what I'm looking at.. I'm probably going to have a small independent mechanic shop put the pads on for me.. Again, it's got 124k miles, I bought it 3 weeks ago. I don't have any history on the car.. I would hate to put these new pads on warped rotors.
#6
Thanks guys. I guess I'll just buy the pads then. Do you guys know the part numbers for the Akebono front and rear pads? And also.. Are you guys certain that I don't need rotors? Is there a way for me to inspect the rotor myself to see if I need them? I'm not really mechanically inclined.. So I don't really know what I'm looking at.. I'm probably going to have a small independent mechanic shop put the pads on for me.. Again, it's got 124k miles, I bought it 3 weeks ago. I don't have any history on the car.. I would hate to put these new pads on warped rotors.
Would you guys reccomend me taking the rotors over to oreilys auto part store to be resurfaced (if needed) they charge 15$ per rotor. Cheaper than buying new rotors
#7
This is probably a dumb question, but on rockauto I see pads going for really cheap like $22.99 for front stoptech ceramic pads.. Do you guys know if this price is just for one wheel? Meaning I need to buy two sets for both front tires... Or does the $22.99 include pads for BOTH front Tires? I'm a little confused.
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#8
Also,
This is probably a dumb question, but on rockauto I see pads going for really cheap like $22.99 for front stoptech ceramic pads.. Do you guys know if this price is just for one wheel? Meaning I need to buy two sets for both front tires... Or does the $22.99 include pads for BOTH front Tires? I'm a little confused.
This is probably a dumb question, but on rockauto I see pads going for really cheap like $22.99 for front stoptech ceramic pads.. Do you guys know if this price is just for one wheel? Meaning I need to buy two sets for both front tires... Or does the $22.99 include pads for BOTH front Tires? I'm a little confused.
As far as those pads, that would be for the entire rear or front, they are sold in caliper pairs. The Posi Quiets are an ok pad, won't dust much but lacks a bit of the bite that the Akebonos would, they are also a quiet pad when installed properly.
#9
Without inspecting your car, nobody can say for sure if you need new rotors or not but it's likely that cleaning them like blnewt suggested or having them machined will solve (or greatly improve) your shudder. But that's not 100% certain.
The $15/ea that O'reilly charges is for machining them only. You'd have to take them off and put them back on, or pay someone to do it. Factoring that in, new rotors probably aren't that much more expensive.
Brake pads are always priced per axle. There are 2 pads on each rotor so the price includes 4 pads total (inner and outer pad on both sides). Front and rear pad sets are usually priced differently, as are the rotors.
The $15/ea that O'reilly charges is for machining them only. You'd have to take them off and put them back on, or pay someone to do it. Factoring that in, new rotors probably aren't that much more expensive.
Brake pads are always priced per axle. There are 2 pads on each rotor so the price includes 4 pads total (inner and outer pad on both sides). Front and rear pad sets are usually priced differently, as are the rotors.
#10
Ok guys I need your help. Me and my buddy just installed both front and rear pads. The rotor actually looked fine once we got the wheel off. Smooth and even surface. I no longer have that shudder when I brake anymore.
The only issue now is when I'm reversing slowly out of my driveway, it squeaks super loud!!! Like a train horn! Super embarrassing... Not sure what's going on. It feels good when I'm driving normally and brake. I don't have any weird sounds and stopping power feels good. Dramatic difference.. The old brake pads were very worn.
Can anyone tell me why it would squeak super loud only when I reverse and lightly hit my brakes??? It's like a metallic scraping sound
The only issue now is when I'm reversing slowly out of my driveway, it squeaks super loud!!! Like a train horn! Super embarrassing... Not sure what's going on. It feels good when I'm driving normally and brake. I don't have any weird sounds and stopping power feels good. Dramatic difference.. The old brake pads were very worn.
Can anyone tell me why it would squeak super loud only when I reverse and lightly hit my brakes??? It's like a metallic scraping sound
#11
Ok guys I need your help. Me and my buddy just installed both front and rear pads. The rotor actually looked fine once we got the wheel off. Smooth and even surface. I no longer have that shudder when I brake anymore.
The only issue now is when I'm reversing slowly out of my driveway, it squeaks super loud!!! Like a train horn! Super embarrassing... Not sure what's going on. It feels good when I'm driving normally and brake. I don't have any weird sounds and stopping power feels good. Dramatic difference.. The old brake pads were very worn.
Can anyone tell me why it would squeak super loud only when I reverse and lightly hit my brakes??? It's like a metallic scraping sound
The only issue now is when I'm reversing slowly out of my driveway, it squeaks super loud!!! Like a train horn! Super embarrassing... Not sure what's going on. It feels good when I'm driving normally and brake. I don't have any weird sounds and stopping power feels good. Dramatic difference.. The old brake pads were very worn.
Can anyone tell me why it would squeak super loud only when I reverse and lightly hit my brakes??? It's like a metallic scraping sound
#15
For a bit more $$ the Stoptech slotted/drilled would be another option with a higher quality rotor.