I'm about to purchase h&r springs for my rwd g37 coupe. Then save money a year later for coils. I just want the look and don't care if the ride is alittle stiffer. It's already stiff from factory idc. Just wanna know how long you guys think my shocks would last. Thanks

 

They should last a while, hr springs are one of the most low springs out there so maybe it will put more stress on your struts. Are you RWD? Sport suspension or base? How much mileage my 08 g37s coupe had 92k on Eibach springs for I don't know how long and it was fine.

 

2008 g37s rwd 110k miles. I do plan on getting coils. But I really wanna lower and I really need an alignment... So I can't wait any longer lol

 

You may want to keep in mind that if you are lowering your car significantly with these springs, your alignment will be off. Especially your camber.
You will likely need to get a camber/toe kit for the rear. If you stick with mod bolts to do the job it could keep the extra cost down to around $100 plus the time/cost to elongate the mounting slots.
There's a thread on what this is all about.

You will also have to factor in the cost of getting your alignment done after the installation of the bolts and lowering springs.

If you drop much more than 1.5" and you do not get it back in alignment, you could burn through tires in just a few months. Even weeks if it is severely off.

Something to consider.

One other thing, I realize it's tough to budget for all this stuff but modding often means more than just one part at a time...

That said, with 110k on your shocks, I would imagine it is tough to say how long they will last on lowering springs, but it will depend on what condition they are in now, and how low you go, and how hard and how much you'll be driving over the next year... So if you must have this car to drive daily, try to set aside some dough for a replacement shock just in case so you are not totally out of commission, if your OEMs blow before you're ready to buy coilovers.

You probably can make it through the year, but I'll defer to those who've gone that route to chime in.

 

Well for all that work and money. You might as well get coils then? Because you don't need camber for coils right?

 

Actually, yes you do.
I just did mine.

It took me a while to realize,
Lowering a car is complex and pricy.

Some ways are cheaper, but if you want to avoid excessive wear, failed components and a harsh ride, you really have to do some homework.

AFAIK you'll need a rear camber kit minimum. Likely a rear toe kit, and if it's A really deep drop, front control arms. Though if you stay above -2" probably won't need the front arms.

Also, lowering springs aren't adjustable, so the height you get is the height you keep.
If it's too low, scrapes everywhere you go that's important, you may be unhappy. Especially if you can't get in/out your driveway.

Springs are fine just make sure you know what height you'll get with the brand/model on your car. You may not be able to return them.

Search here for the results ppl got with whatever you are considering.

 

BTW, IIRC,
BLnewt is on springs and he has one of the nicest setups I've seen bar none.

 

How do I know what camber arms to get? Is it just bolt on. Or do I adjust them when I get them? Idk how they work. And if I go with eibach you think I will need camber? If I'm gonna be spending close to 600 for springs and camber I might as well just go with coils and then camber. Idk what I should do. I just wanna get rid of the wheel gap and that's it. I'm not tracking. I do spirited driving and would like a stiffer nice ride when going on corners.

 

I wanted exactly what you just said.
The more I read the more I realized I needed to know.

Like I said lowering is not cheap or simple.
Suspension is complex and one component affects almost all the others.

You don't need rear toe or camber arms. Only bolt kits for each, then cut/elongate the bolt holes to create room for more adjustment.

Rear camber arms don't require cutting but cost more than bolts. Rear toe arms are f'in pricy and replace the rear main arm/spring bucket. Definitely go for the bolt instead.

To adjust the arms you simply set them to your OEM length and then get the car aligned.

You really can't do the alignment yourself.

All said springs are cheaper, and can be very nice. You will have to add adjustability either way.
As for which parts to get, there are several options, do a search here, Google some, check eBay, include make and model.

 

I just want to clarify what I need. So if I get h&r springs all I will need is a bolt kit?

 

Probably two kits,
One for camber, one for toe.
You might find a good deal on both,
You might find a deal with one bolt kit with a pair of camber arms.

Now go forth grasshopper, find and fulfill your destiny.

You don't have to do any research yourself if you don't mind the possibility of ending up with a car that looks and rides like a Go Kart.

 

With that deep of a drop you will need front camber arms and a rear bolt kit. I believe if you choose not to get a front camber kit that you can get toe in spec but not camber. If your going to get coils and go lower than 1.5" like slotterjordan said you should invest in front and rear camber kit.

 

Brad was on H&R springs. but now he is on coils.

 

Perhaps the most pragmatic approach for you would be to go with a spring with a lighter drop like Eibach or Swift, both will cut the wheel gap & give a nicer look while still being able to keep toe within spec (after alignment) which will save your tires. Eibach and Swift can both be had for under $300.

You might also consider Tein Basis coilovers as I've seen mentioned in a variety of recent posts, they are going for under $500. This would stiffen things up and give you the adjustability.

Ultimately as others have mentioned camber and toe kits will become more and more necessary the lower you go. The lower you go the more expensive things can get.

Take your time and research exactly how low you want to be and then like Bikezilla said, research and plan accordingly. Good luck!

 

Yes, the front toe adjustment is done on the steering rack tie rod ends. Plenty of adjustment there.
And Slotter is the OP, I suggested the front A arms.
Some folks say they got away without them, but later said their camber ate up tires.

It depends on how deep one drops.

Unfortunately Upper control arms aren't cheap, like the rear toe bolts are.
(+$250 a pair or more for a decent set.)
And there are no camber/toe bolts for the front.

I got A-arms too as I wanted to do it right the first time.
I took my time and bought the parts here and there till I had it all.
It was a big nut to drop all at once with FA500 coilovers.

Ain't easy being green.