110k miles stock shocks and getting h&r springs
#16
Get Swift springs which don't need a camber kit or the Eibach Pro Kit (which I've gotten away with no camber kit for 2 yrs with no problem). If you want a subtle drop then go with the Swift but if you want a nice looking low drop then get the Eibachs. You can thank me later.
#17
Get Swift springs which don't need a camber kit or the Eibach Pro Kit (which I've gotten away with no camber kit for 2 yrs with no problem). If you want a subtle drop then go with the Swift but if you want a nice looking low drop then get the Eibachs. You can thank me later.
Listen to Kenny, He's had enough parts on his car to build two!
KidJ also gave good advice.
Re: the $500 coilovers, U=I've read good things about some. Keep in mind some of them require dismantling the OEM shocks for the top-hats which means a fun time with spring compressors and the fear of killing yourself while doing it.
Also some do not have damper adjustments, only height adjustments so the setting you get is the setting you keep.
And lastly, some are NOT rebuildable so when they need service, you simply dispose and replace the whole shock.
None of these are reasons to spend more money unless you feel any are particularly important.
Just another case to do the research before deciding.
Maybe getting Swifts of EBs while you decide and save-up is a smart move!
Last edited by bikezilla; 07-18-2016 at 07:28 PM.
#18
Perhaps the most pragmatic approach for you would be to go with a spring with a lighter drop like Eibach or Swift, both will cut the wheel gap & give a nicer look while still being able to keep toe within spec (after alignment) which will save your tires. Eibach and Swift can both be had for under $300.
#19
Re: the $500 coilovers, U=I've read good things about some. Keep in mind some of them require dismantling the OEM shocks for the top-hats which means a fun time with spring compressors and the fear of killing yourself while doing it.
Maybe getting Swifts of EBs while you decide and save-up is a smart move!
Yeah after much research it seems they are pretty safe to run w/o camber kit. Front Camber is out of spec but only marginally and rear camber is at the edge of spec. Toe is within spec all around which is the big tire saver. By most accounts and now my own tire wear remains even.
#20
Spring compressors aren't that bad as long as you are using them appropriately, I have a set and put springs on half dozen cars over the past few years. That said if you are doing them yourself and you go with Eibach, many run of the mill compressors aren't conducive to working with their design. Part of the reason I went Swift, about .25" higher but easier DIY.
Man that was one ugly day. I'm sure I invented a few new words you can't say on TV.
Yeah after much research it seems they are pretty safe to run w/o camber kit. Front Camber is out of spec but only marginally and rear camber is at the edge of spec. Toe is within spec all around which is the big tire saver. By most accounts and now my own tire wear remains even.
#21
Lol...yeah been there. The more you do it the easier it gets (and the better tools you own the easier it gets). Springs were a breeze on the G. The key is putting the compressors on to just barely tight and use and impact to loosen top nut on the shock. Then crank down the compressor to relieve all (or most) tension, then take it apart, new spring on, compress evenly just enough to get a thread on the top nut and tighten, then install. Impact wrench made life way easier, first few times with springs all I had to tighten with was a ratchet...took forever. After a plethora of honda/acura spring swaps I almost cried with joy when I saw how easy the rear springs were on the G, lol.
#22
AH, interesting method.
My biggest lesson learned was to make sure the threads on the compressor screw and the seat were properly lubricated. Even with an impact (which the instructions warned against) it started binding and overwhelmed it. When I realized how hot the screw got I knew what the problem was.
Using an impact made a big difference. Going by ratchet would have quadrupled the time.
The other issue I encountered was the damm hooks on the compressor would interfere with the spring seats, or if I moved them a coil down, they could not compress enough to relieve the tophat. It was a two step process to compress, seat, remove ONE compressor and use it to compress the other side enough to get the other back off.
The other thing I didn't like was it was neigh impossible to compress the spring evenly.
Maybe a clamshell compressor would work better. I'd actually buy one rather than repeat what I went through with the store-borrowed standard set.
Of course the FX35 is much bigger than most cars so there's that.
My biggest lesson learned was to make sure the threads on the compressor screw and the seat were properly lubricated. Even with an impact (which the instructions warned against) it started binding and overwhelmed it. When I realized how hot the screw got I knew what the problem was.
Using an impact made a big difference. Going by ratchet would have quadrupled the time.
The other issue I encountered was the damm hooks on the compressor would interfere with the spring seats, or if I moved them a coil down, they could not compress enough to relieve the tophat. It was a two step process to compress, seat, remove ONE compressor and use it to compress the other side enough to get the other back off.
The other thing I didn't like was it was neigh impossible to compress the spring evenly.
Maybe a clamshell compressor would work better. I'd actually buy one rather than repeat what I went through with the store-borrowed standard set.
Of course the FX35 is much bigger than most cars so there's that.
#23
AH, interesting method.
My biggest lesson learned was to make sure the threads on the compressor screw and the seat were properly lubricated. Even with an impact (which the instructions warned against) it started binding and overwhelmed it. When I realized how hot the screw got I knew what the problem was.
Using an impact made a big difference. Going by ratchet would have quadrupled the time.
The other issue I encountered was the damm hooks on the compressor would interfere with the spring seats, or if I moved them a coil down, they could not compress enough to relieve the tophat. It was a two step process to compress, seat, remove ONE compressor and use it to compress the other side enough to get the other back off.
The other thing I didn't like was it was neigh impossible to compress the spring evenly.
Maybe a clamshell compressor would work better. I'd actually buy one rather than repeat what I went through with the store-borrowed standard set.
Of course the FX35 is much bigger than most cars so there's that.
My biggest lesson learned was to make sure the threads on the compressor screw and the seat were properly lubricated. Even with an impact (which the instructions warned against) it started binding and overwhelmed it. When I realized how hot the screw got I knew what the problem was.
Using an impact made a big difference. Going by ratchet would have quadrupled the time.
The other issue I encountered was the damm hooks on the compressor would interfere with the spring seats, or if I moved them a coil down, they could not compress enough to relieve the tophat. It was a two step process to compress, seat, remove ONE compressor and use it to compress the other side enough to get the other back off.
The other thing I didn't like was it was neigh impossible to compress the spring evenly.
Maybe a clamshell compressor would work better. I'd actually buy one rather than repeat what I went through with the store-borrowed standard set.
Of course the FX35 is much bigger than most cars so there's that.
I too have wondered about clamshell compressors and what if any difference there would be. I haven't had need for one yet to justify the expense.
#25
Oh yes. I was quite methodical about an equal number of turns on each side, a bit at a time. I think the issue is on the FX coil, the windings were so far apart, the coils have a big differential from one side to the other. NBD for a couple of inches, but a big mess by the time you get squashed enough to remove the tophat.
But I got almost 200k on the last set of struts, I probably won't be replacing them again on that vehicle,
But I got almost 200k on the last set of struts, I probably won't be replacing them again on that vehicle,
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