Rear camber arms and toe bolts

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Old 06-01-2016 | 01:40 PM
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Rear camber arms and toe bolts

If you install rear camber arms do you also need to install the new toe bolts?

2010 G37S Coupe.
Old 06-01-2016 | 01:48 PM
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Nope not needed
Old 06-01-2016 | 02:36 PM
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I will always think Big Unit when Randy posts.
Old 06-01-2016 | 06:52 PM
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I installed the SPC toe bolts and didn't get a single degree of extra adjustment . Camber bolts worked great. Wait, was I supposed to dremel out the toe bolt spot too or just the camber bolt?
Old 06-01-2016 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris9884
I installed the SPC toe bolts and didn't get a single degree of extra adjustment . Camber bolts worked great. Wait, was I supposed to dremel out the toe bolt spot too or just the camber bolt?
The camber 'ARMS' worked great. You dremel out the toe bolt spot only. No need to do that to the camber holes since the camber arms provide all the adjustment you need.
Old 06-01-2016 | 07:20 PM
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ur supposed to dremel the toe bolt hole not the camber arm bolt hole. like i said in another post the camber arms and toe bolts work together. when the camber is adjusted the toe needs to be adjusted too. the factory toe bolt wont allow for the needed adjustment once the camber is set to spec. i learned that one lol
Old 06-01-2016 | 08:33 PM
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I've read in another post that the toe bolt slots only need to be dremmeled to the inside. If installing camber bolts is it the same or do you dremmel to the outside, or both directions?
Old 06-01-2016 | 09:55 PM
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This video helped me to understand what was what. Then the part about dremeling became clear too.
.
Old 06-01-2016 | 11:48 PM
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There is two methods to get camber/toe in spec on mild drops~
~You can use two of the bolt kits (4 bolts total) and you dremel the slots for the toe and the camber arm BOLT slot (this retains the OEM non-adjustable camber arm).


OR
~You can use the adjustable camber arm with the OEM bolt and the new toe bolt. You only elongate the toe slot in this case. And yes you only have to cut to the inside of the slot for the toe & the camber bolt slots. Here's a link on the bolts and a install link
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html


For deeper drops (over 2.25" the first option (camber bolts/toe/bolts) won't get in spec, it will get it closer but not in. For drops under 2.25" both methods will get to spec.
Old 06-02-2016 | 03:55 PM
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I've seen some posts on the 370z forum that said they recommended cutting the slot for the toe bolts on both sides as the instructions state. Some people had issues when they went for an alignment the alignment techs weren't aware both sides weren't drilled out so when they were cranking on the toe bolts (made of soft aluminum?) it ruined the toe bolts and/or the circular washers because the bolt wasn't able to travel freely as it was designed to.
Old 06-02-2016 | 03:57 PM
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thats why u tell the tech ahead of time if you can remember to. i only did the inner side and told the tech. was good to go
Old 06-02-2016 | 08:44 PM
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Damn!!! Thank you guys for the knowledge!!! Very good info here. Cleared a lot up. I have a mild drop on Eibachs and will try the camber arm first. I'm not worried about dremmeling the top toe bolt but want to try avoiding extra work if I can.
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