Non Sport Brake pad install HELP
#16
I just went through this as well last week - the one thing that stopped me from ordering the wrong pads was Amazon - when you add a car to your amazon "garage" they know exactly what part # you need. There was 3 websites that i checked (autoanything, summitracing, etc) that gave me the wrong part #'s for the pads, when i went to add them to my cart on amazon, they show a message in red "These won't fit your car" So i did a little more reasearch, turns out i got lucky ordering it from amazon. Also same thing with rotors, i did a lot of research to see which StopTech and EBC rotors will fit my car, even carid.com showed one part # but amazon knew better.
USA_Automotive_Catalogue_2016
#19
Registered User
Ordering pads and rotors for our cars is a little troublesome.
Sedan vs coupe vs Sport
They all have different rotor sizes and you have to be careful.
IIRC, the parking brake shoes are the only universal on this car.
I'm doing my brakes this weekend...I've got everything ordered and will have it all by Thursday. If I have time, I'll flush the brake fluid as well.
Is there a resource on here that shows the correct flush order? I'm not talking about simply stating "longest to shortest"...I want an exact order. On some other forums for another car, I've discovered that the "obvious" longest to shortest is incorrect as the driver's side front brake happens to have a longer run as it has to go to the ABS module. This isn't apparent and will trip you up if you just glance at the brake line diagram.
Is there an undisputed flush order for calipers on the G37?
Sedan vs coupe vs Sport
They all have different rotor sizes and you have to be careful.
IIRC, the parking brake shoes are the only universal on this car.
I'm doing my brakes this weekend...I've got everything ordered and will have it all by Thursday. If I have time, I'll flush the brake fluid as well.
Is there a resource on here that shows the correct flush order? I'm not talking about simply stating "longest to shortest"...I want an exact order. On some other forums for another car, I've discovered that the "obvious" longest to shortest is incorrect as the driver's side front brake happens to have a longer run as it has to go to the ABS module. This isn't apparent and will trip you up if you just glance at the brake line diagram.
Is there an undisputed flush order for calipers on the G37?
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G37Xtreme (03-24-2016)
#22
Registered User
Thanks, that's awesome. I've seen FSMs specify to bleed from longest to shortest, and then give you a brake line diagram and let you figure it out yourself. I like how they spelled it out to eliminate ambiguity.
#23
Registered User
If I only replaced my front rotors and pads, could my brake pedal have over-travel and feel a bit spongy?
I left work early today so I decided to change the front brakes and rotors. I was pretty meticulous at each step and feel I did everything correctly.
I'll be doing the rear brakes tomorrow.
Using Google, I did find someone on a Mercedes forum with a similar issue. One guy asked if perhaps he had only changed the front brakes as this causes a fluid imbalance. The suggestion was to change all pads and reassess.
Another possibility is over returning the pistons. Is this also a concern with the G?
Post #3
Mushy brake pedal feel after brake pad replacement. - MBWorld.org Forums
Could this also apply to the G37? I haven't done any bleeding so I'm skeptical that air could have gotten in.
I left work early today so I decided to change the front brakes and rotors. I was pretty meticulous at each step and feel I did everything correctly.
I'll be doing the rear brakes tomorrow.
Using Google, I did find someone on a Mercedes forum with a similar issue. One guy asked if perhaps he had only changed the front brakes as this causes a fluid imbalance. The suggestion was to change all pads and reassess.
Another possibility is over returning the pistons. Is this also a concern with the G?
Post #3
Mushy brake pedal feel after brake pad replacement. - MBWorld.org Forums
Could this also apply to the G37? I haven't done any bleeding so I'm skeptical that air could have gotten in.
#24
When I changed my pads and fluid my pedal felt "spongy" at first. But after I bedded the pads in and drove the car next day, the pedal was very firm. Give it another day or two and make sure you have done the bed in procedure correctly. Everyone does it differently, but I did 20-5 mph four times, 40-20 mph four times, and 60-20 mph four times with moderate pressure without coming to a complete stop in between.
By the way, I only changed my front pads, but I did bleed the whole system so I'm not sure if thats relevant to your question.
By the way, I only changed my front pads, but I did bleed the whole system so I'm not sure if thats relevant to your question.
#25
Registered Member
The ebc yellows have the bedding surface on the brakes that takes quite a few miles to get through. Once that is completely gone then I would do the normal bedding procedure to finalize the pad/rotor surface.
#26
Registered User
I strongly recommend this tool to all who plan to do their brakes. The c-Clamp works ok on the front, but the rear calipers don't. This tool would have been great to have. Perhaps a 4" c-Clamp would have worked better than the 3" I had.
Does anyone know if this tool above well work on the sport Akebonos? Looking at their design, I can't figure out how it would work as I don't see a cutout on the calipers.
Does anyone know if this tool above well work on the sport Akebonos? Looking at their design, I can't figure out how it would work as I don't see a cutout on the calipers.
Last edited by G37Xtreme; 03-28-2016 at 10:44 AM.
#29
Registered User
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