Hello everyone,

I'm currently getting some suspension noise in the front and rear when going over speedbumps and just general bad Houston streets ( speed < 35).

So I'd like to do a full suspension rebuild to OEM spec.
Now, I'm not asking for anyone to fish out the part numbers (although that would be helpful), but I'm looking for a general parts list on what I should be replacing.

 

How many miles on your 35? If you're around 100k give or take then new front & rear shocks would be a priority, also the top strut/shock mounts are prone to noise over time. End links would be another part to look at and any rubber bushings (like around the sway bars and control arms).
www.discountinfinitparts.com is a good online source.

 

I am currently at 113k miles.

I've noted down what you said about shocks all around, end links, and top strut/shock mounts. As far as bushings, would you recommend replacing the whole piece (ie whole control arm, or just bushing)?

 

BTW, welcome to the site! Glad you found us

I'm not 100% sure which bushings you can get by themselves, that's something you may need to ask the dealer or call the parts place on the phone and ask if they know. The sway bar bushings should be available separately but the control arms I'm just not sure (hopefully).

 

I've been doing some research myself to prepare for Koni/Eibach on my 08 35S sedan.

I'm having a hard time sourcing the lower front arm bushings without the entire assembly. Seems like SPL is the only one offering something separately. Upper control arm isn't a bad deal via Rock Auto for adjustable ones on a budget. Delco has some adjustable rear arms on there as well. Moog offers full lower front arms, but there's a $40 discrepancy between the driver (cheaper) and passenger ($175).

If you're not familiar with testing the suspension, make sure you're supporting the lower arm to remove load before checking for play/failing bushings. Avoid removing the sway bar endlinks unless you're definitely replacing; spinning these joints will cause more harm to their condition. Try your best to isolate the joints ability to turn.

Get various sized pry bars to work bushings in the direction they would flex when driving straight AND turning (forward/back and up/down). Have a good light handy when doing this and look for fatigue in the surface. Even a 1/8" deep Crack in the surface could be trouble as the bushing is drying and will continue to fail (tearing).

At 115k~, I'd pull off both of your rack & pinion boots to inspect for blown rack seals. Seen this on a couple of higher mileage V36s. These seals aren't serviceable and require to replace the whole assembly. What's worse is allowing thus to continue leaking as you may end up damaging the PS pump.

I really wish there was a whiteline suspension kit for these cars... Agh...

By the way, this is my first post on here! Haha, depressing one at that. Recently bought my Garnet Ember Sport. Loving this daily!

 

Nice initial post Neno, welcome to the site and look forward to more contributions.

 

Thanks, blnewt!