Z1 Front upper control arms installed
01-21-2016, 06:52 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Make sure you double check that the ball joints are tightened. They are two piece ball joints and both of mine started backing out on me making a bunch of noise up front. I pulled them completely apart, used some red locktight, and tightened them back down.
I like the design of these over the SPC so went with the Z1's. They're cheaper too
I like the design of these over the SPC so went with the Z1's. They're cheaper too
01-21-2016, 07:39 PM
#17
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
I guess it's all relative. I didn't know that SPC was a "name" with bragging right. Thought that lofty association was owned by SPL, and their titanium hardware.My rear camber arms are SPC. For 2017 mods, I was planning on front camber arms, as well as front & rear end-links. Hmm... Good to know there are more options for front camber arms, and Z1 is certainly a go-to resource for Nissan aftermarket.
01-21-2016, 07:51 PM
#18
The Z1 option gives you adjustment front and rear which allows for more camber correction. They use heavy duty high quality parts and you can tell they're quality when holding them. I didn't see the need in spending more money than I had to for the SPC name. I really don't like the adjustment on the SPCs but I will say it's easier to adjust (which I'll never do). I would highly recommend them.
Last edited by Mik3G37S; 01-21-2016 at 07:58 PM.
01-27-2016, 01:43 PM
#19
Registered Member
Exactly. They "should" be locktight'd together, but mine were not and started backing off over time. Made all kinds of noise. I believe it's a 6mm allen up top and I can't remember the size of the bottom half of the ball joint, but it's actually a standard wrench on the bottom. A 19mm wrench held, but it was whatever the standard size is, down.
01-27-2016, 01:57 PM
#20
Registered Member
If it makes any difference I was specifically told by Z1 that you want to adjust the ball joint heim to adjust camber. The body heim joints are more for caster (turning one of the heims without adjusting the other). I could also see where adjusting both together would adjust camber.
The second thing I hate on the SPC's are the eyelet mounts at the body that holds the bushing in the front arms. That design has failed for not only members on here (talking about rear arms here, but same design), but on other platforms as well. Eventually I plan on selling my SPC rear camber arms and going with the SPL rear camber arms.
The adjustment on the SPC's are actually way easier than the Z1's. The SPC's just require loosening of the upper ball joint nut and sliding the ball joint in or out to whatever desired position. This is also nice in the sense that you don't have to separate the ball joint from the spindle in order to make adjustments. On the Z1's you need to separate the balljoint from the spindle unless you want to take apart the ball joint every time you need to make an adjustment. The advantage here for Z1 (imo), however, is that you can tell exactly how much one turn of the ball joint affects camber. Allows you to really dial in your camber on each side.
01-27-2016, 02:03 PM
#21
Registered Member
Also the thin steel plate the ball joint sits on, on the SPC's, is a little too thin for my liking. I've got an AWD so there's more weight on those front arms than other cars. This car is my daily and I've got my 3 year old with me all the time. The Z1's more "continuous" design is a stronger design and makes me sleep better at night.
01-27-2016, 02:47 PM
#22
Registered Member
Given I am cooked that I have straight SPC rear camber arms and looking at sways, what about these:
http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...AFrom&to=USATo
They look like the cheese. I would, of course, blue loctite the jamb nuts.
http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...AFrom&to=USATo
They look like the cheese. I would, of course, blue loctite the jamb nuts.
01-27-2016, 03:10 PM
#23
Registered Member
Given I am cooked that I have straight SPC rear camber arms and looking at sways, what about these:
http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...AFrom&to=USATo
They look like the cheese. I would, of course, blue loctite the jamb nuts.
http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...AFrom&to=USATo
They look like the cheese. I would, of course, blue loctite the jamb nuts.
Last edited by jfisher; 01-27-2016 at 03:15 PM.
01-29-2016, 12:55 AM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
Like mentioned earlier the adjustment points at the ball joint and the body is a "nice" feature. I quote "nice" because you still can't adjust the arms while they're on the car on an alignment rack so it's still a total guessing game for you or your alignment guy.
If it makes any difference I was specifically told by Z1 that you want to adjust the ball joint heim to adjust camber. The body heim joints are more for caster (turning one of the heims without adjusting the other). I could also see where adjusting both together would adjust camber.
The second thing I hate on the SPC's are the eyelet mounts at the body that holds the bushing in the front arms. That design has failed for not only members on here (talking about rear arms here, but same design), but on other platforms as well. Eventually I plan on selling my SPC rear camber arms and going with the SPL rear camber arms.
The adjustment on the SPC's are actually way easier than the Z1's. The SPC's just require loosening of the upper ball joint nut and sliding the ball joint in or out to whatever desired position. This is also nice in the sense that you don't have to separate the ball joint from the spindle in order to make adjustments. On the Z1's you need to separate the balljoint from the spindle unless you want to take apart the ball joint every time you need to make an adjustment. The advantage here for Z1 (imo), however, is that you can tell exactly how much one turn of the ball joint affects camber. Allows you to really dial in your camber on each side.
If it makes any difference I was specifically told by Z1 that you want to adjust the ball joint heim to adjust camber. The body heim joints are more for caster (turning one of the heims without adjusting the other). I could also see where adjusting both together would adjust camber.
The second thing I hate on the SPC's are the eyelet mounts at the body that holds the bushing in the front arms. That design has failed for not only members on here (talking about rear arms here, but same design), but on other platforms as well. Eventually I plan on selling my SPC rear camber arms and going with the SPL rear camber arms.
The adjustment on the SPC's are actually way easier than the Z1's. The SPC's just require loosening of the upper ball joint nut and sliding the ball joint in or out to whatever desired position. This is also nice in the sense that you don't have to separate the ball joint from the spindle in order to make adjustments. On the Z1's you need to separate the balljoint from the spindle unless you want to take apart the ball joint every time you need to make an adjustment. The advantage here for Z1 (imo), however, is that you can tell exactly how much one turn of the ball joint affects camber. Allows you to really dial in your camber on each side.
The rear adjustments MUST be adjusted equally according to the installation instructions or major damage could occur!
The heim joint can be adjusted by removing the 1 bolt connecting it to the steering knuckle, turning to desired length and reattaching it to the steering knuckle.
Once adjusted everything is SOLID and with the race version everything is even more so!
01-29-2016, 01:27 AM
#26
The adjustment on the SPC's are actually way easier than the Z1's. The SPC's just require loosening of the upper ball joint nut and sliding the ball joint in or out to whatever desired position. This is also nice in the sense that you don't have to separate the ball joint from the spindle in order to make adjustments. On the Z1's you need to separate the balljoint from the spindle unless you want to take apart the ball joint every time you need to make an adjustment. The advantage here for Z1 (imo), however, is that you can tell exactly how much one turn of the ball joint affects camber. Allows you to really dial in your camber on each side.
Exactly why I swapped all my parts over to SPL!!
SPL are very easy to adjust on the alignment rack all you need is a socket and extensions..
And I hope you don't need more than 1 degree of caster on those SPC because that's all you get out of them...you get what you pay for!!
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m3clubracer (01-29-2016)
01-29-2016, 08:01 AM
#27
Registered Member
Actually everything you said about the Z1 arms is incorrect.
The rear adjustments MUST be adjusted equally according to the installation instructions or major damage could occur!
The heim joint can be adjusted by removing the 1 bolt connecting it to the steering knuckle, turning to desired length and reattaching it to the steering knuckle.
Once adjusted everything is SOLID and with the race version everything is even more so!
The rear adjustments MUST be adjusted equally according to the installation instructions or major damage could occur!
The heim joint can be adjusted by removing the 1 bolt connecting it to the steering knuckle, turning to desired length and reattaching it to the steering knuckle.
Once adjusted everything is SOLID and with the race version everything is even more so!
And that's exactly what I said about adjusting the heim... Try doing that with the car on an alignment rack. Not going to happen. I've adjusted these and the coilovers up front probably 10 times to try and get everything where I want. It's a long, tedious process.
01-29-2016, 08:07 AM
#28
Registered Member
Putting an adjustment on the ball joint is the worst place for it!!
Exactly why I swapped all my parts over to SPL!!
SPL are very easy to adjust on the alignment rack all you need is a socket and extensions..
And I hope you don't need more than 1 degree of caster on those SPC because that's all you get out of them...you get what you pay for!!
Exactly why I swapped all my parts over to SPL!!
SPL are very easy to adjust on the alignment rack all you need is a socket and extensions..
And I hope you don't need more than 1 degree of caster on those SPC because that's all you get out of them...you get what you pay for!!
01-29-2016, 08:44 AM
#29
From the looks of it the Z1s have no caster adjustment, or does that ball joint have some front to back adjustment?
The SPLs are the bomb, but at least the SPCs do have some caster adjustment, +/- 1 degree makes a pretty decent adjustment, enough to get my caster back in spec when I was dropped pretty deep before my coils.
I'm running heavier caster now though since I prefer it.
The SPLs are the bomb, but at least the SPCs do have some caster adjustment, +/- 1 degree makes a pretty decent adjustment, enough to get my caster back in spec when I was dropped pretty deep before my coils.
I'm running heavier caster now though since I prefer it.
01-29-2016, 11:02 AM
#30
Registered Member
From the looks of it the Z1s have no caster adjustment, or does that ball joint have some front to back adjustment?
The SPLs are the bomb, but at least the SPCs do have some caster adjustment, +/- 1 degree makes a pretty decent adjustment, enough to get my caster back in spec when I was dropped pretty deep before my coils.
I'm running heavier caster now though since I prefer it.
The SPLs are the bomb, but at least the SPCs do have some caster adjustment, +/- 1 degree makes a pretty decent adjustment, enough to get my caster back in spec when I was dropped pretty deep before my coils.
I'm running heavier caster now though since I prefer it.