OfficialG

iTrader: (1)

ok so, I have been racking my brain trying to figure out the proper sizes/offsets for some new wheels. I am trying to get it right the first time because I will likely be ordering some 3 pc expensive wheels.

I am going for a flush/poke look. Meaning, when I air down i want the lip of the wheel to be JUST outside the fender when they meet. I understand that when aired up to ride height that means the wheel will look really wide, and when I air down it will come in a bit due to camber. I'm assuming I will have to ride at a very high height if I do not want the tires to slam the fenders over bumps/dips while driving. And I know running some negative camber at ride height will probably give me the necessary clearance. However, I would like to run the least amount of negative camber at ride height as this is my daily driver. But I also assume that running neg camber from ride height will affect how much flush/poke I have when i air down and the fender and wheels meet, but I am not sure and that's where my question comes in...

So, my question is this: If I have to run some negative camber at ride height in order to save my fenders from my tire, what will happen when the fender and wheel meet up? will it still be that same negative camber? or is there a threshold where your natural camber and camber you set at ride height are equal?

I have been hovering around an 11inch wheel with +18 (or so) offset in order to achieve the look I want aired down. However, I do not know what that means I have to do at ride height in order to drive the car normally.

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Camber runs in an arc, so at ride height if you're at in-spec camber as you air down your camber will get more negative in a linear fashion. You can see this yourself prior to going w/ air. Just raise your car as-is just to the point where your suspension isn't under load and get a couple rulers or better yet a 90 degree angled ruler. You can see the relation to the tire and fender then see how much it tucks for every 1/2" you drop. If it tucks 1/8" for every 1/2" drop then if you drop it 4" it would result in an inch tuck. I don't know exactly how much to expect this is just an example. You should be able to approximate what it will be by doing that.

You might also want to post your proposed wheel specs in the "hellaflush" thread and let them know you're going air and see what they say.
G/L
https://www.myg37.com/forums/wheels-...hread-103.html

bigc

iTrader: (5)

Is the air suspension installed on your car already? If so, your best bet is to explain your goals to your wheel vendor / manufacturer and have them take measurements based on the wheels currently on your car (make sure you have those specs). I was in a similar position several years ago - I had the folks at HRE take measurements with my car at my normal ride height, at my lowered/cruising height, and when the car was slammed.

micafd3s

iTrader: (2)

you also need to consider what size tire you plan on runnin... that will have a huge part on how it will tuck...
you also didn't mention what size wheel you are lookin to use..

Baby Jumpman

iTrader: (18)

The guys at ravspec will be able to help you out. As far camber like blnewt said the lower you go/air out the more negative your camber will become.

OfficialG

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Blnewt, so I plan on getting a camber kit so I can run adjustments for my ride height, as I will most likely be too aggressive to run anything more than like -2 camber.


My next question is: Will I have to make two separate camber adjustments, one for my ride height and one for aired out? or will the camber arms just adjust when I air down?

Also, the air isn't installed yet but when do you suggest the best time is to do the proper adjustments? because I feel that I will not be able to run my wheels and drive it until I make the camber adjustments, yet I need the wheels installed to make the adjustments. Kind of a catch22. should I just bring at least the rear wheels with me when I get the air installed and the alignment that will be done right after?


Sorry, I know it's a dumb question but I've always been static until now.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

You'll want to get it aligned as close to spec when you're at your normal driving height. If you plan to drive when you're a lot lower or even higher just be prepared for quicker tread wear and a bit less predictable handling.

Try to set your camber arms to the roughly the same length as your OEM arms then do a test fit and then adjust out as needed to get a safe clearance when you lower it. I imagine you won't be using your factory control arms so you'd be going w/ toe arms there, so you can use a string method to set your toe within a reasonable range to get you to the alignment shop without incident. Here's a clip on that