Brakes Squeal with New Pads
#31
So I brought my car into get the rear pads replaced with OEM Infiniti pads and the tech called me up later in the day and said when he backed up the car to put it on the lift he could hear the squeak. He had another tech stand outside the car to listen and said it was actually coming from the front brakes, not the rear. So, they left the rear pads alone and replaced the front rotors with new ones (no charge). So, now I have all new rotors and pads front/rear. It's been 3 days and everything seems to be quiet so far with no squeaks. Hopefully that was the culprit and the issue has now been resolved
#32
So I brought my car into get the rear pads replaced with OEM Infiniti pads and the tech called me up later in the day and said when he backed up the car to put it on the lift he could hear the squeak. He had another tech stand outside the car to listen and said it was actually coming from the front brakes, not the rear. So, they left the rear pads alone and replaced the front rotors with new ones (no charge). So, now I have all new rotors and pads front/rear. It's been 3 days and everything seems to be quiet so far with no squeaks. Hopefully that was the culprit and the issue has now been resolved
My experience is from my wilwood upgrade to my last altima, where I didn't know their pads did not come with shims, and I didn't even know I need them. So basically all wheels squeaks like hell. Only until I gave up, I found they sell shims separately, too late.
Yes, some aftermarket pads do come with shims, but they follow the same standard of design of their shim for all application, which of course isn't right. Because for different cars, caliper bore and piston size is different, causing the pressure difference. The smaller the bore, the thicker the shim should be (because the soft material needed to be thick enough hold the pressure).
I am upgrading my base G to sport brake, I looked around for people's complain, didn't want to deal this problem, so end up getting OEM pads from dealer and ceretic (or something) for rotors. The shim for OEM pads is actually two piece, one metal, one softer material, the piston first apply the pressure to the metal sheet, then the sheet spread the force to the soft material, to reduce the pressure per unit area. Equivalent to thicken the soft material.
#33
It's been just over 2 years (and 25K miles) since I've had my brakes worked on and they have been flawless (zero squeaks or squeals). The end result is that the tire/brake shop ended up completely replacing the front and rear rotors and pads with OEM Nissan parts (with new OEM shims). The brakes have been perfect since being installed. It was a learning lesson for me and I will always go with OEM parts on my G37s from now on.
#34
It's been just over 2 years (and 25K miles) since I've had my brakes worked on and they have been flawless (zero squeaks or squeals). The end result is that the tire/brake shop ended up completely replacing the front and rear rotors and pads with OEM Nissan parts (with new OEM shims). The brakes have been perfect since being installed. It was a learning lesson for me and I will always go with OEM parts on my G37s from now on.
#37
If your brakes squeal it's probably because the shop you used didn't do a proper brake job. If you skip replacing the brake hardware and properly cleaning and lubricating everything, your brakes will make noise. This warped rotor thing is nonsense. 99% of people on forums who claim XYZ brand brakes are noisy or XYZ brand rotors warp easily just don't know how to do a brake job.
You will almost never get a proper brake job at a shop because doing a proper brake job takes time and mechanics get paid by book hours. If you want it done right, you will have to learn to do it yourself.
Every time you do a brake job you need:
-brand new brake hardware including shims, boots and everything
-a steel wire brush and scouring pad to remove corrosion from any mating surfaces
-Plenty of brake cleaner to remove old grease and deposits
-Copper grease for all shims and contact points (anything that touches or slides)
-Silicone grease for the pins
You might also consider anti-drag clips on the rear brakes.
Personally, i replace my rotors when i do my brakes because it's cheap and my brake jobs last for years, so they are plenty rusted by then. That gives me a chance to remove corrosion from the hub, which, along with idiot mechanics using impact wrenches to install your wheels, is the number one cause of excessive runout (incorrectly called "warped rotors"). Scour the mating surfaces until they are free of corrosion. apply a thin coating of copper grease to the hub everywhere it contacts the rotor.
You will almost never get a proper brake job at a shop because doing a proper brake job takes time and mechanics get paid by book hours. If you want it done right, you will have to learn to do it yourself.
Every time you do a brake job you need:
-brand new brake hardware including shims, boots and everything
-a steel wire brush and scouring pad to remove corrosion from any mating surfaces
-Plenty of brake cleaner to remove old grease and deposits
-Copper grease for all shims and contact points (anything that touches or slides)
-Silicone grease for the pins
You might also consider anti-drag clips on the rear brakes.
Personally, i replace my rotors when i do my brakes because it's cheap and my brake jobs last for years, so they are plenty rusted by then. That gives me a chance to remove corrosion from the hub, which, along with idiot mechanics using impact wrenches to install your wheels, is the number one cause of excessive runout (incorrectly called "warped rotors"). Scour the mating surfaces until they are free of corrosion. apply a thin coating of copper grease to the hub everywhere it contacts the rotor.
Last edited by Victory; 08-01-2017 at 01:57 PM.
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Krzysztof47 (05-28-2023)
#38
What he said^^^. I had some squeaks from my front Wilwood brakes and the grease I previously applied had worn thin, a re-apply of CRC caliper grease on the pistons, backers and sliders and it's all good, I also ground a slight taper on the leading edge of the pads, no more noise (and that also contributed to judder under hard braking). All good again!
Like Victory mentioned that corrosion that builds up on the hub to rotor, and rotor to wheel mating surfaces can contribute to runout and vibration, which also may aid in noise at the brakes. And if you have aftermarket wheels the oversize hub bore should be tightened up with hub adapting rings, just to keep the hub-centric design of our hub to wheel mounts intact.
Like Victory mentioned that corrosion that builds up on the hub to rotor, and rotor to wheel mating surfaces can contribute to runout and vibration, which also may aid in noise at the brakes. And if you have aftermarket wheels the oversize hub bore should be tightened up with hub adapting rings, just to keep the hub-centric design of our hub to wheel mounts intact.
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