Akebono install
#1
Akebono install
Alright guys, Getting ready to do my Akebono upgrade on my X. I have 4 calipers repainted in vht silver with the akebono decal, new stoptech pads and new centric rotors. I also purchased 4 of the shortened banjo bolts and I have the hardware sets already with the calipers (pins, clips, etc). I also purchased brake fluid. Is there anything that I am missing? I am using the oem brake lines that are on the car already, do I have to do anything with those or do I need to purchase anything additional?
#2
Alright guys, Getting ready to do my Akebono upgrade on my X. I have 4 calipers repainted in vht silver with the akebono decal, new stoptech pads and new centric rotors. I also purchased 4 of the shortened banjo bolts and I have the hardware sets already with the calipers (pins, clips, etc). I also purchased brake fluid. Is there anything that I am missing? I am using the oem brake lines that are on the car already, do I have to do anything with those or do I need to purchase anything additional?
Install Akebono Big Brake Kit on 370z or 350z
Also just be sure to keep the MC full as you're flushing the old fluid, otherwise you'll have to bench bleed the MC
#4
You'll find that bleeding those suckers is the toughest part. Other than that make sure you have an assortment of Metric sockets a breaker bar and a rubber mallet for the old rotors. I had to disconnect the rear stabilizer bars on each side (forward of the rear rotors) in order to get the lower caliper bolts out then into the new calipers. G/L
If I remember correctly the sockets you'll need are from 24mm down to 17mm. Then a 10mm line wrench for the bleeders and brake lines. A large flat head driver helps with prying to. Plus a 14mm socket or wrench for the banjo bolts.
If I remember correctly the sockets you'll need are from 24mm down to 17mm. Then a 10mm line wrench for the bleeders and brake lines. A large flat head driver helps with prying to. Plus a 14mm socket or wrench for the banjo bolts.
#5
You'll find that bleeding those suckers is the toughest part. Other than that make sure you have an assortment of Metric sockets a breaker bar and a rubber mallet for the old rotors. I had to disconnect the rear stabilizer bars on each side (forward of the rear rotors) in order to get the lower caliper bolts out then into the new calipers. G/L
If I remember correctly the sockets you'll need are from 24mm down to 17mm. Then a 10mm line wrench for the bleeders and brake lines. A large flat head driver helps with prying to. Plus a 14mm socket or wrench for the banjo bolts.
If I remember correctly the sockets you'll need are from 24mm down to 17mm. Then a 10mm line wrench for the bleeders and brake lines. A large flat head driver helps with prying to. Plus a 14mm socket or wrench for the banjo bolts.
#7
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#8
Start at the passenger rear caliper, then drivers rear, then passenger front, then to drivers front caliper. Bleed the outside caliper first then the inside caliper bleeder on each wheel. I did three whole rounds before I was comfortable with driving the car. I went through 2 1/2 500mL bottles of DOT 4. I had a ton of air in my lines and brakes. As stated before be sure to keep your reservoir topped off. You don't want air to get into the Master cylinder. I contacted Diego and was told that the wheel offsets need to be +32 or better to clear the calipers in the front. They are huge!
#9
Start at the passenger rear caliper, then drivers rear, then passenger front, then to drivers front caliper. Bleed the outside caliper first then the inside caliper bleeder on each wheel. I did three whole rounds before I was comfortable with driving the car. I went through 2 1/2 500mL bottles of DOT 4. I had a ton of air in my lines and brakes. As stated before be sure to keep your reservoir topped off. You don't want air to get into the Master cylinder. I contacted Diego and was told that the wheel offsets need to be +32 or better to clear the calipers in the front. They are huge!
#10
#11
It might be the style of your wheels, the oem GTR wheels clear them and they are +45. But yes he knows a lot about that stuff.
#12
#13
I always did it from the furthest bleeder on in, but here's a post I had a while back and the Nissan w/ ABS have a different sequence as per the FSM
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...sport-g37.html
It's passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front.
As far as wheel fitment, if you have the wheels on hand it's a good idea just to print these up and test it out (if you're dealing w/ wheels that haven't been verified to fit Akebonos).
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/i...akeoutline.pdf
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/i...artemplate.pdf
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...sport-g37.html
It's passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front.
As far as wheel fitment, if you have the wheels on hand it's a good idea just to print these up and test it out (if you're dealing w/ wheels that haven't been verified to fit Akebonos).
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/i...akeoutline.pdf
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/i...artemplate.pdf
Last edited by blnewt; 06-16-2014 at 12:42 PM.
#14
Start at the passenger rear caliper, then drivers rear, then passenger front, then to drivers front caliper. Bleed the outside caliper first then the inside caliper bleeder on each wheel. I did three whole rounds before I was comfortable with driving the car. I went through 2 1/2 500mL bottles of DOT 4. I had a ton of air in my lines and brakes. As stated before be sure to keep your reservoir topped off. You don't want air to get into the Master cylinder. I contacted Diego and was told that the wheel offsets need to be +32 or better to clear the calipers in the front. They are huge!