Akebono install

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Old 06-15-2014 | 05:41 PM
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Akebono install

Alright guys, Getting ready to do my Akebono upgrade on my X. I have 4 calipers repainted in vht silver with the akebono decal, new stoptech pads and new centric rotors. I also purchased 4 of the shortened banjo bolts and I have the hardware sets already with the calipers (pins, clips, etc). I also purchased brake fluid. Is there anything that I am missing? I am using the oem brake lines that are on the car already, do I have to do anything with those or do I need to purchase anything additional?
Old 06-15-2014 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AUR11
Alright guys, Getting ready to do my Akebono upgrade on my X. I have 4 calipers repainted in vht silver with the akebono decal, new stoptech pads and new centric rotors. I also purchased 4 of the shortened banjo bolts and I have the hardware sets already with the calipers (pins, clips, etc). I also purchased brake fluid. Is there anything that I am missing? I am using the oem brake lines that are on the car already, do I have to do anything with those or do I need to purchase anything additional?
You'll have to cut back the dust shields, here's a DIY on the z forum
Install Akebono Big Brake Kit on 370z or 350z
Also just be sure to keep the MC full as you're flushing the old fluid, otherwise you'll have to bench bleed the MC
Old 06-15-2014 | 06:05 PM
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Oh yeah forgot about that step, thanks for the reminder and the link!
Old 06-15-2014 | 07:52 PM
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You'll find that bleeding those suckers is the toughest part. Other than that make sure you have an assortment of Metric sockets a breaker bar and a rubber mallet for the old rotors. I had to disconnect the rear stabilizer bars on each side (forward of the rear rotors) in order to get the lower caliper bolts out then into the new calipers. G/L

If I remember correctly the sockets you'll need are from 24mm down to 17mm. Then a 10mm line wrench for the bleeders and brake lines. A large flat head driver helps with prying to. Plus a 14mm socket or wrench for the banjo bolts.
Old 06-16-2014 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
You'll find that bleeding those suckers is the toughest part. Other than that make sure you have an assortment of Metric sockets a breaker bar and a rubber mallet for the old rotors. I had to disconnect the rear stabilizer bars on each side (forward of the rear rotors) in order to get the lower caliper bolts out then into the new calipers. G/L

If I remember correctly the sockets you'll need are from 24mm down to 17mm. Then a 10mm line wrench for the bleeders and brake lines. A large flat head driver helps with prying to. Plus a 14mm socket or wrench for the banjo bolts.
What's the proper procedure for bleeding these brakes?
Old 06-16-2014 | 10:30 AM
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make sure they clear your wheels lol
Old 06-16-2014 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by pricojorge
make sure they clear your wheels lol
they should, I've got 19x9 convertible wheels all around and then I have the 18" sport wheels for winter that are the same as the S.
Old 06-16-2014 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by AUR11
What's the proper procedure for bleeding these brakes?
Start at the passenger rear caliper, then drivers rear, then passenger front, then to drivers front caliper. Bleed the outside caliper first then the inside caliper bleeder on each wheel. I did three whole rounds before I was comfortable with driving the car. I went through 2 1/2 500mL bottles of DOT 4. I had a ton of air in my lines and brakes. As stated before be sure to keep your reservoir topped off. You don't want air to get into the Master cylinder. I contacted Diego and was told that the wheel offsets need to be +32 or better to clear the calipers in the front. They are huge!
Old 06-16-2014 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
Start at the passenger rear caliper, then drivers rear, then passenger front, then to drivers front caliper. Bleed the outside caliper first then the inside caliper bleeder on each wheel. I did three whole rounds before I was comfortable with driving the car. I went through 2 1/2 500mL bottles of DOT 4. I had a ton of air in my lines and brakes. As stated before be sure to keep your reservoir topped off. You don't want air to get into the Master cylinder. I contacted Diego and was told that the wheel offsets need to be +32 or better to clear the calipers in the front. They are huge!
Hmm my wheels are +30 all around. The sport wheels are +43 I believe?
Old 06-16-2014 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by AUR11
Hmm my wheels are +30 all around. The sport wheels are +43 I believe?
My rims are Vossen 20X9 +38. I needed 5mm spacers in the front to clear the calipers by the recommended 2mm. Try contacting BLNEWT, he's a fountain of info on wheels.
Old 06-16-2014 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
My rims are Vossen 20X9 +38. I needed 5mm spacers in the front to clear the calipers by the recommended 2mm. Try contacting BLNEWT, he's a fountain of info on wheels.
It might be the style of your wheels, the oem GTR wheels clear them and they are +45. But yes he knows a lot about that stuff.
Old 06-16-2014 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by AUR11
It might be the style of your wheels, the oem GTR wheels clear them and they are +45. But yes he knows a lot about that stuff.
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Here is a picture of my fitment. It may just be my wheels. I'm no expert on fitment. LOL
Old 06-16-2014 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by AUR11
What's the proper procedure for bleeding these brakes?
I always did it from the furthest bleeder on in, but here's a post I had a while back and the Nissan w/ ABS have a different sequence as per the FSM
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...sport-g37.html
It's passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front.

As far as wheel fitment, if you have the wheels on hand it's a good idea just to print these up and test it out (if you're dealing w/ wheels that haven't been verified to fit Akebonos).
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/i...akeoutline.pdf
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/i...artemplate.pdf

Last edited by blnewt; 06-16-2014 at 12:42 PM.
Old 06-16-2014 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
Start at the passenger rear caliper, then drivers rear, then passenger front, then to drivers front caliper. Bleed the outside caliper first then the inside caliper bleeder on each wheel. I did three whole rounds before I was comfortable with driving the car. I went through 2 1/2 500mL bottles of DOT 4. I had a ton of air in my lines and brakes. As stated before be sure to keep your reservoir topped off. You don't want air to get into the Master cylinder. I contacted Diego and was told that the wheel offsets need to be +32 or better to clear the calipers in the front. They are huge!
So the five bottles I bought "might" be enough?
Old 06-16-2014 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RexHavoc
So the five bottles I bought "might" be enough?
Five Bottles should about cover it!


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