Rotors: slotted vs. drilled vs. slotted and drilled

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Old 05-26-2014 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFightNguyen
Coming at this from a different angle, why do most performance cars have slotted rotors?
Most performance cars, Porsche for example, have 'drilled' rotors, except they are CAST not drilled, so as not to compromise the integrity of the rotors.

Why do you think slotted rotors are going to handle repeated hard use better than blanks? And do you really think slots are going to make you accelerate faster?
Old 05-26-2014 | 09:48 PM
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I think an aweful lot of sports cars have slotted rotors and although I may not be an expert, there must be something "better" about them over blanks. Researching this topic as most modders do before committing to a purchase I have found that most reviews and journals say that the drilled dissapate heat quicker while the slotted do allow for the pads to be "cleaned". All I know is that there is a definite positive to a slotted or drilled rotor over a blank as long as it is a quality rotor. I'm running with the slotted rotors for the Akebono BBK I am going to purchase tomorrow. The "cool factor" almost had me with the slotted and drilled rotors but in the end functionality won over appearance.

Anybody have any hints or tips on the replacement of the stock brakes with the Akebonos? It looks pretty straight forward just making sure I have my ducks in a row, so to speak.
Old 05-26-2014 | 10:00 PM
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Don't let your calipers hang from the brake lines, use some wire or an untwisted wire coat hanger to hold them from the spring or camber arm.

It's not a bad time to swap out your lines for stainless, and to flush the system with new fluid.

Make sure you follow the correct procedure for bedding your brakes after installation.

Retorque your wheels once you do your bed in.
Old 05-26-2014 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFightNguyen
Don't let your calipers hang from the brake lines, use some wire or an untwisted wire coat hanger to hold them from the spring or camber arm.

It's not a bad time to swap out your lines for stainless, and to flush the system with new fluid.

Make sure you follow the correct procedure for bedding your brakes after installation.

Retorque your wheels once you do your bed in.
The BBK comes with new SS lines, and I know not to hang the calipers from the lines. I was planning on flushing the system while at it. What is this business about bedding in the new pads. How and what do you do? Thanks for the response
Old 05-26-2014 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
The BBK comes with new SS lines, and I know not to hang the calipers from the lines. I was planning on flushing the system while at it. What is this business about bedding in the new pads. How and what do you do? Thanks for the response
Regular braking is a process of breaking down a layer of pad material on the surface of the rotor and depositing new material.

You need to put down more material than you are breaking down with new rotors, this establishes the initial working layer of pad material on the rotors.

I bed my brakes by getting up to speed on some secluded part of the highway. Brake decisively from 70mph to 40mph, then drive for a few minutes to cool the rotors off, then repeat. Do several sessions of 70->40, with a cool down session between each. It is important that you do not stop completely anywhere in there, as it could lead to an excessive amount of material transferral to your rotors in one specific spot. This is how you get juddery brakes and vibrations during braking.
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Old 05-26-2014 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFightNguyen
Regular braking is a process of breaking down a layer of pad material on the surface of the rotor and depositing new material.

You need to put down more material than you are breaking down with new rotors, this establishes the initial working layer of pad material on the rotors.

I bed my brakes by getting up to speed on some secluded part of the highway. Brake decisively from 70mph to 40mph, then drive for a few minutes to cool the rotors off, then repeat. Do several sessions of 70->40, with a cool down session between each. It is important that you do not stop completely anywhere in there, as it could lead to an excessive amount of material transferral to your rotors in one specific spot. This is how you get juddery brakes and vibrations during braking.
Here's the bed-in I followed for my Stoptech pads, it's more aggressive going from 60 to 10, and will get your rotors scorching, but this may be specific as per the Stoptech pads. I'd be sure to look up the procedure for the specific pads you're using.
Stock Brake System Bed-in
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Old 05-26-2014 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
Anybody have any hints or tips on the replacement of the stock brakes with the Akebonos? It looks pretty straight forward just making sure I have my ducks in a row, so to speak.
Here's a pretty good writeup on 370z, it details the cutting of the dust shield pretty well
Install Akebono Big Brake Kit on 370z or 350z
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Old 05-27-2014 | 07:19 AM
  #38  
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You guys rock, thanks for the tips and info. The bedding I process sounds like it's going to be fun. LOL

PULLING THE TRIGGER TODAY!
Old 05-27-2014 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
I think an aweful lot of sports cars have slotted rotors and although I may not be an expert, there must be something "better" about them over blanks. Researching this topic as most modders do before committing to a purchase I have found that most reviews and journals say that the drilled dissapate heat quicker while the slotted do allow for the pads to be "cleaned". All I know is that there is a definite positive to a slotted or drilled rotor over a blank as long as it is a quality rotor. I'm running with the slotted rotors for the Akebono BBK I am going to purchase tomorrow. The "cool factor" almost had me with the slotted and drilled rotors but in the end functionality won over appearance.

Anybody have any hints or tips on the replacement of the stock brakes with the Akebonos? It looks pretty straight forward just making sure I have my ducks in a row, so to speak.
Be prepared to have a rubber mallet and be comfortable with hitting it on the stock rotors with a fair amount of force. When I changed my rotors, they were on there pretty good.
Old 05-27-2014 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by twin_snails
Be prepared to have a rubber mallet and be comfortable with hitting it on the stock rotors with a fair amount of force. When I changed my rotors, they were on there pretty good.

I actually ran out and bought a rubber mallet from Lowes on Saturday in anticipation of some brute force needed to get the stocks off. Ordered the BBK today from Concept Z Performance. They don't have any Stoptech rotors on a shelf so they needed to be ordered. I was told probably a weeks wait time for the kit to be shipped. I went with the Infiniti silver calipers, slotted Stoptech rotors, SS braided lines, and the NISMO pads. Hopefully all goes well with the install. I'm not really worried though. I've done brakes on a ton cars and trucks. Just never on an Infiniti, but I doubt they re-invented the braking system.
Old 05-27-2014 | 10:07 PM
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Should be a piece of cake then, trimming those dust shields will probably be the biggest pain of the job, or trying to explain to the cop why you're driving like a lunatic (during the bed-in), lol.
Old 05-28-2014 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
I actually ran out and bought a rubber mallet from Lowes on Saturday in anticipation of some brute force needed to get the stocks off. Ordered the BBK today from Concept Z Performance. They don't have any Stoptech rotors on a shelf so they needed to be ordered. I was told probably a weeks wait time for the kit to be shipped. I went with the Infiniti silver calipers, slotted Stoptech rotors, SS braided lines, and the NISMO pads. Hopefully all goes well with the install. I'm not really worried though. I've done brakes on a ton cars and trucks. Just never on an Infiniti, but I doubt they re-invented the braking system.
I have the NISMO pads and they seem like a nice upgrade over the stockers, although they generate a lot of dust.

Don't forget some good high quality fluid.

Car and Driver crashed a 370 at VIR and did a follow up on the brake fade, and tested the NISMO pads in the process:

Z Meets Wall: We Investigate Why the NISMO Z's Brakes Failed at Lightning Lap - Feature - Car and Driver
Old 05-28-2014 | 07:10 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by blnewt
Should be a piece of cake then, trimming those dust shields will probably be the biggest pain of the job, or trying to explain to the cop why you're driving like a lunatic (during the bed-in), lol.
LOL, no kidding! I have a good spot to bed those suckers in.


Originally Posted by Lego_Maniac
I have the NISMO pads and they seem like a nice upgrade over the stockers, although they generate a lot of dust.

Don't forget some good high quality fluid.

Car and Driver crashed a 370 at VIR and did a follow up on the brake fade, and tested the NISMO pads in the process:

Z Meets Wall: We Investigate Why the NISMO Z's Brakes Failed at Lightning Lap - Feature - Car and Driver

ouch, I was planning on replacing the fluid anyway since the system is going to be opened up.
Old 01-26-2016 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
I went with the Infiniti silver calipers, slotted Stoptech rotors, SS braided lines, and the NISMO pads.
Sorry for bringing this back to life 2 years later lol.. But how did it go? I have big brakes already but I'm the same route with the slotted stoptech's and a different route with the pads
Old 01-26-2016 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JloG37s
Sorry for bringing this back to life 2 years later lol.. But how did it go? I have big brakes already but I'm the same route with the slotted stoptech's and a different route with the pads
Sadly, Warped Ideas passed away a while ago.


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