My 2010 G37X had some minor flood/water damage in the past - due to which the starter motor was damaged and the starter had to be replaced. Since there was not enough clearance to pull the old starter out, the guy helping me out started disconnecting the steering lower joint (knuckle) AND disconnected the steering gear sub-assembly (!!) and all lines going to it (see #3 in attached diagram)... so that he could slide the starter out from the back etc. I know I know that was completely unnecessary and was done out of inexperience and haste :P. Anyway, when he put everything back together, the new starter works great and I have zero starting problems. However, the entire power steering fluid leaked out of the 2 thin, cylinder tubes (see #15 in attached diagram) that are attached to the steering gear sub and then to the rack. See the attached pic. Those 2 pipes attached in the center - with 12mm flare nuts (?). The entire fluid gushes out of those 12mm flare nuts in no time!

Does anyone know if this is because of a missing washer/o-ring? If so, do you know which size/type of washer/o-ring this fitting needs? Do I just buy some generic o-ring set assortment from auto-store and try it out??

Could this simply be a result of over-torque/tightening of those nuts?

My car has been in-operational for over a week now... so I am dying to get it back on the road...and really do not want to tow it to a shop if possible.

Thanks.

 

"The guy" helping you out didn't do you any favors.
Whatever you thought you were saving is gone.
My $.02
Join AAA and have your vehicle towed to the Infiniti dealer for a proper repair. I'm sure the cost of a starter at the dealer was more than you paid but often if you purchase the starter yourself at the dealer's parts department and then get a labor quote from service it comes out cheaper than if you just went to service and told them to replace the starter.

I learned this lesson a long time ago.
I no longer trust anyone but the dealer to work on my cars. Costs more yes but I get a loaner when needed and the job is done right the first time and I don't end up paying for car insurance on a vehicle that I don't have the use of.
Buy cheap, buy twice

Good luck to you

Telcoman

 

Not necessarily good advice to not trust anyone but the dealer. Just like any professional field, there are good and bad mechanics.

Some dealers also have terrible mechanics that cause more problems with the car. There's no guarantee that the dealer will be any better, and good car mechanics WILL also warranty their work and have the job done right. I know some dealers who would purposely charge for labor and parts that are not even necessary. Does that mean that the dealer does the job right because they charge for a part and labor that was unnecessary? I've had a dealer who wanted me to purchase a WHOLE new headlight assembly for almost $1000 not including labor when the ballast could just be replaced for $75 new.

I know even some good mechanics will also will provide you with a loaner vehicle (not Infiniti cars, but who cares?) I have someone in Boston who also drives a G37, and knows pretty much the ins and outs of the car. I only take my car to dealers for warranty work or transmission flush, since OEM fluid is required on these vehicles. Anything else the local mechanic could do. In fact, dealer charges more for oil changes than my local mechanic does, and I can bring my own oil (synthetic Mobil 1 EP.) The base labor rate for a dealer is much higher than a local mechanic (usually twice as much or more.)

My advice to you, OP, is to take it back to the person who did your car and have him recheck the steering rack for any issues. The issue does NOT look like a difficult fix and may be just something simple.

 

I am pretty sure there are not O-rings that belong there. If it's a flare nut, it's a flared tube end which I don't think get an O-ring. Although it possibly could be - I have never removed or disassembled the power steering ton the car yet. If it were me, I'd check to make sure that it's not damaged by overtighening, cross threading, to possibly not tightened all the way down. I hope it's just loose because overtightening or cross threading means that the tubes and possibly even the gear assembly might need to be replaced or at a minimum removed and the port tapped. That sounds like a PITA. Notice the exploded diagram only calls for 17 ft/lbs tightening torque, that's not much at all. Basically just finger tight and a slight turn further of the wrench. If He-Man torqued it down it can easily leak, just like a brake line fitting.

Good luck.

 

Thank you for the replies. I am sure TelcoMan meant well... but, like mathnerd88, I have also been bitten by some dealership scams in the past... so I tend to shy away. I feel especially helpless/vulnerable when it comes to towing a car to the dealership Besides, I am on a very tight budget with this flood branded car.

Trying to get the same mechanic to come by this evening and try to remove, inspect and re-tighten those 2 lines. I am hoping it is not cross-threading or some over-tightening related damage. I will try to take some pics with the lines removed if its unresolved.

Thanks.