techG37elec

iTrader: (1)

Me too. Weather is going to be good, so I WILL work on this. I am not here to bash any manufacturer, as most of us here. I just want the noise issue solved. I really appreciate you further explaining as you did and I will post back an honest assessment of the fix?


BTW, I have a 2010G37X, 7AT, RWD, coupe, , Regular, Default springs.


That being said, my quandary, and maybe my downfall?, has been the similarity of only the noise from the right side rear and never the left.... but... I got it. I will swap shocks if nec, and triple check, end links and take pix.


Thanks, Pete

Ok... saturday:
I jacked up and locking rings were all tight. I shook on everything while car was jacked up.... wheels off. Checked spring preload and my measurements from before.... all good. I took pics of everything .... ill post in a bit. I swapped right to left shock and vs. vs.
set new preloads... left shock was 1/8 shorter than right, so I had to adjust left shock and right for new preload since I was swapping them. Getting ready to lower it and make sure ride height is same, then test drive. If noise is still there. ... im gonna drive onto the ramps so I can test with suspension loaded. Will post back.

Just got back from test drive..... noise from right rear not affected by the shock swap. Same noise.... nothing's changed except, I now know its NOT the shocks or a loose lock ring or lack of preload. Both sides of car are set up identical. My standing height of car is at 26"... give or take an 1/8".
Now... ill do the ramps and check for noise w car loaded on wheels.

Dj1ofDet

iTrader: (5)

After checking the preload on my rear springs, it was waaaaaay off. Thanks to the folks at BC for posting the video on properly setting preload. Majority of the sound is gone from my suspension. The only thing I hear now, is the endlink noise from before, and a slightly louder than normal noise going over bumps. It's not the "clunking and clacking" from before. Since I'm using swift lowering springs in the rear, with the factory top hat, I don't have to worry about adjusting height in the rear. Thanks again for seemingly solving this issue.

san~man

Question: did you guys have to set the pre-load on the front, or was it set properly from the factory?

If you had to set it, did you use the recommended 4mm setting?

Pete@BC

Good deal. Process of elimination is the deal sometimes. Personally setting it on the ramps is faster sometimes, but you have ruled out what some say is a bad shock. A bad shock would travel all the issues when you change sides.

Not sure if you set it on the ramps yet. If you hear noise from the endlinks, remove the endlinks and go for a spin. Secure the swaybar with zip ties or something just so you can eliminate those from the list of potentials. If you got noise still I'd like to see the spring set up. Double check aftermarket exhaust too. I don't ever recall a issue with G or Z, but I do know we have had a few that the exhaust is way close and under the right condition would hit. Good luck, keep us posted everyone.

Pete@BC

We recommend 5mm. Fastest way to do it is unload the spring completely by lowering both rings. Scroll back the 1st ring (spring seat) by hand until the spring is snug. Don't muscle it. Move the ring below it up to the 1st ring but don't tighten it. You want to use the 2nd ring as a guide of measurement. With your spanner wrench turn the first ring to create preload on the spring. As you turn the 1st ring you will begin to create a gap between both lock rings. I use the thickness of the wrench as my guide to preload. I turn the ring until i can slide the wrench in between the 2 rings. Once this is accomplished, move the 2nd ring up and lock them together. I know video, video, video. The staff is working on quite a few video tutorials that will be very helpful.

If anyone has questions I can probably snap a quick explanation by phone vid.

san~man

Pete, thank you. I watched that vid you linked in a previous post and it was very helpful.

What I'm wondering, but what I'll check anyway on Monday, is whether or not the "preset" preload from the factory is trustworthy to be properly set (like it says it is). Your opinion on that?

Pete@BC

Preset from the factory is about 4-5mm. We always recommend to reset preload after a 2-4 week period from install. Springs will have settled and your 4-5mm preload from factory won't be the same.

Dj1ofDet

iTrader: (5)

The preload is apparently at set the factory.

san~man

Thanks a lot Pete

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Pete, appreciate the time you're devoting to the site and this particular issue, great to have a company rep getting questions answered and hopefully resolving this situation. Nice job!

Darth Kinetic

umm no, if you have an X, you have and AWD...not a rwd...
I hope that was a typo AND that you ordered the correct BC coils

ANMVQ

iTrader: (13)

Hey Pete!! Thanx man, I'm a little at easy now knowing you we think the noise has been fixed. Also as the BC rep said has the others with the noise done the recommened recheck and preload set after the 2-4 weeks? An the front pre load should be 4MM and the rears are 11MM?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Fronts usually come w/ the correct preload out of the box, but never hurts to check.

superjer2000

I am not convinced there isn't a systematic problem with these bc coils. My noise matches the exact same noise from a number of videos across the web and even across car manufacturers where people use bc coils and It always comes from the rear. I'm not sure that the sound is just the right side as some people are indicating as it is really hard to isolate where noise is coming from unless you are riding in the trunk with the lid open.

Sam at bc was not helpful at all two years ago when I was having issues and I find it hard to believe that dozens of people here have had the exact same issue whether the coils were installed professionally or not. As noted, my coils were quiet for the first couple thousand km and then started with the noise.

The other issue I had was I ordered my coils direct,y from bc and the sales guy lied and said I could get back to factory height. Not true. When I showed Sam the email correspondence he offered to sell me spacers for 80. On top of that, one of my rear adjustment perches was HARD to turn from the beginning and again, Sam had no support available for that.

Very disappointed in my bc experience.

Pete@BC

Sorry to hear that about your experience with us. I would say lie is harsh and misinformed possibly the correct word. Some of our kits allow for a huge amount of height adjustment, but others there are limiting factors by the car design. The purpose of any coilover or springs manufacturer is to lower the center of gravity of a vehicle. Trying to make them OEM height isn't really the focus of anyone trying to achieve a performance enhancement in their vehicle. I would have asked for management if there was a email trail requesting OEM height though. We do alot of custom request and can build something specific to those needs. Once again, my apologies if there was any misinformation given.

As for the noises. I personally tinker with my own vehicles and it's part of the game. No matter what work you do to a car, sometimes it requires coming back to it later for adjustments. I'll give you a example. I had a noise come up in the rear of my M3. I'd say about 3-5k miles after install of the suspension. After looking over all the potentials that can create the noise I was able to turn the lower mount bolt 1/4 turn. I've driven to Vegas and back from Fl, accumulated about 12k miles since that issue and have never heard it again. The noise was very similar to what is described here. To fix a problem you have to find the underling issue. Step by step process of elimination is key to fixing these issues mentioned in this thread.