Just bought BC racing coils
#106
Registered Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
I've done the install for these coils, and posted a DIY for the X model on this forum (somewhere)
As for the "Chattering," you need to make sure the locking rings are tighten correctly on the REAR STRUTS (not the springs) make sure the vehicle is on some sort of pressure so you can tighten the rear locking on the struts
As for the "Chattering," you need to make sure the locking rings are tighten correctly on the REAR STRUTS (not the springs) make sure the vehicle is on some sort of pressure so you can tighten the rear locking on the struts
Are you saying you installed these locked the rings and have NO noise. Have you done this for others also? I'm going to look for your DIY,
#107
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
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ANMVQ (02-19-2014)
#108
I believe he's referring to the BC locking ring on the rear strut, and making sure the ring is tight (so it doesn't loosen, back out, and then make noise).
#109
I just got off the phone with BC. They said they have gotten complaints of our clunk many many times.. He explained that sometimes because of the top hat... They fixed it by going to 11mm of preload. Also, he said many people were getting the clunk because of the spring perches... Again, preload... For me, since ride quality wasn't affected, we couldn't figure out what it was... So since I was still under warranty he sent out a new shock for me.. Hopefully that'll fix it but I'm pretty doubtful.
According to BC the only similarity between them and Megan's are the factory and they are completely different..
According to BC the only similarity between them and Megan's are the factory and they are completely different..
#110
Premier Member
iTrader: (5)
I've done the install for these coils, and posted a DIY for the X model on this forum (somewhere)
As for the "Chattering," you need to make sure the locking rings are tighten correctly on the REAR STRUTS (not the springs) make sure the vehicle is on some sort of pressure so you can tighten the rear locking on the struts
As for the "Chattering," you need to make sure the locking rings are tighten correctly on the REAR STRUTS (not the springs) make sure the vehicle is on some sort of pressure so you can tighten the rear locking on the struts
Here's the DIY, I'm holding out hope here
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...l-on-an-x.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...l-on-an-x.html
I highly doubt that's the case.
#111
EXACTLY Connessierr..... When we find out the difference between the RIGHT SIDE and the LEFT SIDE of the car.... we will fix the problem. Period.
Now.... what is the difference (what IS different) about the left side rear and the right side rear.... that is the question!
{God.... give me some good weather this weekend!}
#112
Registered Member
EXACTLY Connessierr..... When we find out the difference between the RIGHT SIDE and the LEFT SIDE of the car.... we will fix the problem. Period.
Now.... what is the difference (what IS different) about the left side rear and the right side rear.... that is the question!
{God.... give me some good weather this weekend!}
Now.... what is the difference (what IS different) about the left side rear and the right side rear.... that is the question!
{God.... give me some good weather this weekend!}
As for my experience, I have a shop in Orlando with several lifts, (2 post, 4 post) The chattering was very annoying..
Short version
I installed these coil overs perfectly, without any issues, not a single chatter. Ended up selling my wheels and installed new wheels (lifting the entire car off= releasing the tension on the rear struts, possibly releasing the rear locking)
As I drove on a brick road, the chattering begun, and drove me nuts. The next day took the car to the shop, placed it up on my lift without tension on the rear struts...not one chatter...placed it on my other lift with tension on the rear struts heard the chattering noise and started isolating it to the locking mechanism.
Moral of the story, whenever I lifted the vehicle off the ground it released the tension on the locking mechanism on the strut...so I tightened them up, and it hasn't chattered since. Also if you were to call BC (btw BC is located in Orlando and Ive done business with them, so i know this as a fact) and ask them about the chattering. They would usually state "you need to lift this rear, by the pumpkin and tighten the locking mechanism on the rear struts." Like I stated.
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ANMVQ (02-19-2014)
#113
Well, I got mine installed today. No noise from either side in the rear, but I have some noise from the front.
Going back Monday to have my friend check the pre-load. I was in a rush so I didn't give him much time to trouble-shoot the noise, but my sway bar bushings are bad so they may/may not be contributing to the noise.
Going back Monday to have my friend check the pre-load. I was in a rush so I didn't give him much time to trouble-shoot the noise, but my sway bar bushings are bad so they may/may not be contributing to the noise.
#114
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
Well, I got mine installed today. No noise from either side in the rear, but I have some noise from the front.
Going back Monday to have my friend check the pre-load. I was in a rush so I didn't give him much time to trouble-shoot the noise, but my sway bar bushings are bad so they may/may not be contributing to the noise.
Going back Monday to have my friend check the pre-load. I was in a rush so I didn't give him much time to trouble-shoot the noise, but my sway bar bushings are bad so they may/may not be contributing to the noise.
#117
#119
Lets narrow this down
Hey everyone. Sam in our tech dept came to my office today and shared this link. Even though I'm not in that division I do know the G and Z platforms well since I have both and have worked on numerous of them over the course of the years.
Our staff is always available for questions via email and phone. Reaching out to them can help remedy your situation, but please put yourselves in our position. It is rather hard to diagnose a car remotely. Hence this is why they ask for certain information and pictures. Just sending random parts out isn't a fix without properly diagnosing a vehicle. We don't also want you to set your car on jacks and send it back so your stuck without a vehicle while we review your parts. I welcome anyone with this issue to bring it to our facility and we will look it over at no charge.
Not everyone is a expert. We hear from customers how they went to a pro shop and they know how to work on cars. The mechanic says it is the product not the installer. Well let me give you a quick example of a pro shop install where the customer sent us a pic. See attached below. Yes we see this and other numerous mistakes. Its scary honestly.
Ok so I read briefly over the 8 pages and see alot of misinformation and things that I'd like to clarify also.
post 4: 70% of BC's make noise? Really? Can you fill me in where you get your info? Apparently you know more than we do.
post 31: That corner is a rear left. This video is useless though. How can you diagnose noise when your trunk is full of boxes of who knows what. Your videographer can't keep focus because your on the worst road in North America. Knocking like that has to be generated by metal on metal and a large enough gap/space to create that extreme noise.
Multiple post say we know of this situation. Let me clarify. When Infiniti released the G37, we had a issue with our initial first batch. We replaced about a dozen rear shocks which were preorders. We narrowed it to a nitrogen seal. Years have past since that, and we have not experienced any more issues. Since the G37 uses a independent rear spring setup, this setup can be the most difficult to properly preload and can cause noise. Any application with this type setup causes alot of tech calls on noise produced by unloaded springs. So yes, we are aware of noise being produced from independent springs, but not specifically G37. Just incase most don't know. Nissan used your same rear setup on G35, G37, 370Z, 350Z, Altima's, Q45, M35/45, FX35. We don't have any issues on any of these applications aside from your normal preloading questions. Below I'll attach a recent video our staff created this past weekend to help assist customers with this.
There are a few questions regarding true coilover here. We have track tested and there is no benefit to true coilover rears. There are customers though that do prefer it and we do provide true rear coilover options. You can use both our spring or swifts in this configuration. We also provide adapter plates to use swift in the rear bucket.
Lets narrow this problem down
Lets gather some info together.
What vehicle do you have? Sedan or coupe? Awd or Rwd? What kit did you purchase? Extreme or Regular? Default spring rates or Custom spring rates?
I have not seen any pictures of the coilover rears in this thread. Can those with issues post them up? Maybe some have a simple install orientation issue.
Alright, let me ask this simple question. Everyone here says its the right rear (passenger side rear). Well since the rear left isn't making noise, have you tried moving the shock left to right and right to left? Both are identical top to bottom. If you have a faulty right it should become a faulty left. If you still have a faulty right, then it isn't your shock.
Have you assured that all lock rings are tight? If it is loose, the shock can rattle in the lower mount generating noise through the top hats. Same for the spring locks.
Have you checked your endlinks? I've seen many of people not know that endlinks require on most applications a allen key or wrench to keep them from spinning while tightening the nut. You'll be surprised to know how much noise this can generate.
We know our product, the in's and the out's. We know where people have had issues that cause noise. Take a moment and go over those items we list. Diagnosis is crucial. I've always found it is easiest to set the car on some ramps. This keeps the weight on the suspension and someone can push down on the vehicle while you are under the vehicle narrowing down what is making the noise. Obviously do this carefully with vehicle in gear or park.
Below is the preload video to help. I'll try to keep a eye on the thread, but as stated before this isn't my department. Just here to try and help fellow G owners.
Our staff is always available for questions via email and phone. Reaching out to them can help remedy your situation, but please put yourselves in our position. It is rather hard to diagnose a car remotely. Hence this is why they ask for certain information and pictures. Just sending random parts out isn't a fix without properly diagnosing a vehicle. We don't also want you to set your car on jacks and send it back so your stuck without a vehicle while we review your parts. I welcome anyone with this issue to bring it to our facility and we will look it over at no charge.
Not everyone is a expert. We hear from customers how they went to a pro shop and they know how to work on cars. The mechanic says it is the product not the installer. Well let me give you a quick example of a pro shop install where the customer sent us a pic. See attached below. Yes we see this and other numerous mistakes. Its scary honestly.
Ok so I read briefly over the 8 pages and see alot of misinformation and things that I'd like to clarify also.
post 4: 70% of BC's make noise? Really? Can you fill me in where you get your info? Apparently you know more than we do.
post 31: That corner is a rear left. This video is useless though. How can you diagnose noise when your trunk is full of boxes of who knows what. Your videographer can't keep focus because your on the worst road in North America. Knocking like that has to be generated by metal on metal and a large enough gap/space to create that extreme noise.
Multiple post say we know of this situation. Let me clarify. When Infiniti released the G37, we had a issue with our initial first batch. We replaced about a dozen rear shocks which were preorders. We narrowed it to a nitrogen seal. Years have past since that, and we have not experienced any more issues. Since the G37 uses a independent rear spring setup, this setup can be the most difficult to properly preload and can cause noise. Any application with this type setup causes alot of tech calls on noise produced by unloaded springs. So yes, we are aware of noise being produced from independent springs, but not specifically G37. Just incase most don't know. Nissan used your same rear setup on G35, G37, 370Z, 350Z, Altima's, Q45, M35/45, FX35. We don't have any issues on any of these applications aside from your normal preloading questions. Below I'll attach a recent video our staff created this past weekend to help assist customers with this.
There are a few questions regarding true coilover here. We have track tested and there is no benefit to true coilover rears. There are customers though that do prefer it and we do provide true rear coilover options. You can use both our spring or swifts in this configuration. We also provide adapter plates to use swift in the rear bucket.
Lets narrow this problem down
Lets gather some info together.
What vehicle do you have? Sedan or coupe? Awd or Rwd? What kit did you purchase? Extreme or Regular? Default spring rates or Custom spring rates?
I have not seen any pictures of the coilover rears in this thread. Can those with issues post them up? Maybe some have a simple install orientation issue.
Alright, let me ask this simple question. Everyone here says its the right rear (passenger side rear). Well since the rear left isn't making noise, have you tried moving the shock left to right and right to left? Both are identical top to bottom. If you have a faulty right it should become a faulty left. If you still have a faulty right, then it isn't your shock.
Have you assured that all lock rings are tight? If it is loose, the shock can rattle in the lower mount generating noise through the top hats. Same for the spring locks.
Have you checked your endlinks? I've seen many of people not know that endlinks require on most applications a allen key or wrench to keep them from spinning while tightening the nut. You'll be surprised to know how much noise this can generate.
We know our product, the in's and the out's. We know where people have had issues that cause noise. Take a moment and go over those items we list. Diagnosis is crucial. I've always found it is easiest to set the car on some ramps. This keeps the weight on the suspension and someone can push down on the vehicle while you are under the vehicle narrowing down what is making the noise. Obviously do this carefully with vehicle in gear or park.
Below is the preload video to help. I'll try to keep a eye on the thread, but as stated before this isn't my department. Just here to try and help fellow G owners.
Last edited by Pete@BC; 02-21-2014 at 01:32 AM.
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