Just bought BC racing coils
02-24-2014, 06:23 PM
#138
Well, my problem's fixed.
Followed Pete's instructions on setting the front pre-load (5mm using the spanner wrench technique), and the noise is gone. Any chatter or noise I had is gone and it's perfect now.
There was, however, an unrelated problem: the nut that attaches the swaybar to the endlink was gone (as in fallen off), which was probably responsible for the majority of the noise I was experiencing. I'll never know for sure, since we addressed the nut and the preload at the same time, but I honestly don't care at this point.
Increased the dampening to 22F, 20R (was originally at 15 for both), may have to go a bit stiffer.
Forgot what it sounds like to drive a quiet car haha
Followed Pete's instructions on setting the front pre-load (5mm using the spanner wrench technique), and the noise is gone. Any chatter or noise I had is gone and it's perfect now.
There was, however, an unrelated problem: the nut that attaches the swaybar to the endlink was gone (as in fallen off), which was probably responsible for the majority of the noise I was experiencing. I'll never know for sure, since we addressed the nut and the preload at the same time, but I honestly don't care at this point.
Increased the dampening to 22F, 20R (was originally at 15 for both), may have to go a bit stiffer.
Forgot what it sounds like to drive a quiet car haha
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ANMVQ (02-24-2014)
02-25-2014, 04:01 AM
#139
Hey everyone. Sam in our tech dept came to my office today and shared this link. Even though I'm not in that division I do know the G and Z platforms well since I have both and have worked on numerous of them over the course of the years.
Our staff is always available for questions via email and phone. Reaching out to them can help remedy your situation, but please put yourselves in our position. It is rather hard to diagnose a car remotely. Hence this is why they ask for certain information and pictures. Just sending random parts out isn't a fix without properly diagnosing a vehicle. We don't also want you to set your car on jacks and send it back so your stuck without a vehicle while we review your parts. I welcome anyone with this issue to bring it to our facility and we will look it over at no charge.
Not everyone is a expert. We hear from customers how they went to a pro shop and they know how to work on cars. The mechanic says it is the product not the installer. Well let me give you a quick example of a pro shop install where the customer sent us a pic. See attached below. Yes we see this and other numerous mistakes. Its scary honestly.
Ok so I read briefly over the 8 pages and see alot of misinformation and things that I'd like to clarify also.
post 4: 70% of BC's make noise? Really? Can you fill me in where you get your info? Apparently you know more than we do.
post 31: That corner is a rear left. This video is useless though. How can you diagnose noise when your trunk is full of boxes of who knows what. Your videographer can't keep focus because your on the worst road in North America. Knocking like that has to be generated by metal on metal and a large enough gap/space to create that extreme noise.
Multiple post say we know of this situation. Let me clarify. When Infiniti released the G37, we had a issue with our initial first batch. We replaced about a dozen rear shocks which were preorders. We narrowed it to a nitrogen seal. Years have past since that, and we have not experienced any more issues. Since the G37 uses a independent rear spring setup, this setup can be the most difficult to properly preload and can cause noise. Any application with this type setup causes alot of tech calls on noise produced by unloaded springs. So yes, we are aware of noise being produced from independent springs, but not specifically G37. Just incase most don't know. Nissan used your same rear setup on G35, G37, 370Z, 350Z, Altima's, Q45, M35/45, FX35. We don't have any issues on any of these applications aside from your normal preloading questions. Below I'll attach a recent video our staff created this past weekend to help assist customers with this.
There are a few questions regarding true coilover here. We have track tested and there is no benefit to true coilover rears. There are customers though that do prefer it and we do provide true rear coilover options. You can use both our spring or swifts in this configuration. We also provide adapter plates to use swift in the rear bucket.
Lets narrow this problem down
Lets gather some info together.
What vehicle do you have? Sedan or coupe? Awd or Rwd? What kit did you purchase? Extreme or Regular? Default spring rates or Custom spring rates?
I have not seen any pictures of the coilover rears in this thread. Can those with issues post them up? Maybe some have a simple install orientation issue.
Alright, let me ask this simple question. Everyone here says its the right rear (passenger side rear). Well since the rear left isn't making noise, have you tried moving the shock left to right and right to left? Both are identical top to bottom. If you have a faulty right it should become a faulty left. If you still have a faulty right, then it isn't your shock.
Have you assured that all lock rings are tight? If it is loose, the shock can rattle in the lower mount generating noise through the top hats. Same for the spring locks.
Have you checked your endlinks? I've seen many of people not know that endlinks require on most applications a allen key or wrench to keep them from spinning while tightening the nut. You'll be surprised to know how much noise this can generate.
We know our product, the in's and the out's. We know where people have had issues that cause noise. Take a moment and go over those items we list. Diagnosis is crucial. I've always found it is easiest to set the car on some ramps. This keeps the weight on the suspension and someone can push down on the vehicle while you are under the vehicle narrowing down what is making the noise. Obviously do this carefully with vehicle in gear or park.
Below is the preload video to help. I'll try to keep a eye on the thread, but as stated before this isn't my department. Just here to try and help fellow G owners.
BC Racing NA- Separate Spring and Shock Preload - YouTube
Our staff is always available for questions via email and phone. Reaching out to them can help remedy your situation, but please put yourselves in our position. It is rather hard to diagnose a car remotely. Hence this is why they ask for certain information and pictures. Just sending random parts out isn't a fix without properly diagnosing a vehicle. We don't also want you to set your car on jacks and send it back so your stuck without a vehicle while we review your parts. I welcome anyone with this issue to bring it to our facility and we will look it over at no charge.
Not everyone is a expert. We hear from customers how they went to a pro shop and they know how to work on cars. The mechanic says it is the product not the installer. Well let me give you a quick example of a pro shop install where the customer sent us a pic. See attached below. Yes we see this and other numerous mistakes. Its scary honestly.
Ok so I read briefly over the 8 pages and see alot of misinformation and things that I'd like to clarify also.
post 4: 70% of BC's make noise? Really? Can you fill me in where you get your info? Apparently you know more than we do.
post 31: That corner is a rear left. This video is useless though. How can you diagnose noise when your trunk is full of boxes of who knows what. Your videographer can't keep focus because your on the worst road in North America. Knocking like that has to be generated by metal on metal and a large enough gap/space to create that extreme noise.
Multiple post say we know of this situation. Let me clarify. When Infiniti released the G37, we had a issue with our initial first batch. We replaced about a dozen rear shocks which were preorders. We narrowed it to a nitrogen seal. Years have past since that, and we have not experienced any more issues. Since the G37 uses a independent rear spring setup, this setup can be the most difficult to properly preload and can cause noise. Any application with this type setup causes alot of tech calls on noise produced by unloaded springs. So yes, we are aware of noise being produced from independent springs, but not specifically G37. Just incase most don't know. Nissan used your same rear setup on G35, G37, 370Z, 350Z, Altima's, Q45, M35/45, FX35. We don't have any issues on any of these applications aside from your normal preloading questions. Below I'll attach a recent video our staff created this past weekend to help assist customers with this.
There are a few questions regarding true coilover here. We have track tested and there is no benefit to true coilover rears. There are customers though that do prefer it and we do provide true rear coilover options. You can use both our spring or swifts in this configuration. We also provide adapter plates to use swift in the rear bucket.
Lets narrow this problem down
Lets gather some info together.
What vehicle do you have? Sedan or coupe? Awd or Rwd? What kit did you purchase? Extreme or Regular? Default spring rates or Custom spring rates?
I have not seen any pictures of the coilover rears in this thread. Can those with issues post them up? Maybe some have a simple install orientation issue.
Alright, let me ask this simple question. Everyone here says its the right rear (passenger side rear). Well since the rear left isn't making noise, have you tried moving the shock left to right and right to left? Both are identical top to bottom. If you have a faulty right it should become a faulty left. If you still have a faulty right, then it isn't your shock.
Have you assured that all lock rings are tight? If it is loose, the shock can rattle in the lower mount generating noise through the top hats. Same for the spring locks.
Have you checked your endlinks? I've seen many of people not know that endlinks require on most applications a allen key or wrench to keep them from spinning while tightening the nut. You'll be surprised to know how much noise this can generate.
We know our product, the in's and the out's. We know where people have had issues that cause noise. Take a moment and go over those items we list. Diagnosis is crucial. I've always found it is easiest to set the car on some ramps. This keeps the weight on the suspension and someone can push down on the vehicle while you are under the vehicle narrowing down what is making the noise. Obviously do this carefully with vehicle in gear or park.
Below is the preload video to help. I'll try to keep a eye on the thread, but as stated before this isn't my department. Just here to try and help fellow G owners.
BC Racing NA- Separate Spring and Shock Preload - YouTube
The way Sam told me to adjust preload, and adjust ride height, on rears (copied from another thread I submitted this in)
Go to the spring. Those 2 lock rings on top. Move those up to lower (into cars chassis) or down to raise (floor).
Once you've done that, unlock the collar on the strut and twist it right to left, until the spring is on sitting firmly on the 2 lock rings (zero preload)... From here twisting the shock right to left will preload...
Your tech's said you do not have to unto the lower strut bolt, as it doesn't really help with the G37's. (I've confirmed with them, as this was the first time I had heard of this method)
They did not mention anything about raising the spring bucket for preload as twisting the shock, you will eventually be creating preload when the spring starts to sit on the lock rings in their new position...
The 3rd number on your spring is how long your spring is in mm. If you want 8mm of preload, keep preloading with the strut until it is 8mm shorter then what is written.
(230-8 = 222mm) <-- that is what your spring height should be if you want 8mm..
Would Sam's procedures be an effective way to set preload? Or was it just a bunch of nonsense?
Upon talking to Chelsea again last week, He believes that it is my actual strut. He mentioned something about nitrogen in the cartridge, and how that may be what I am experiencing..
Last edited by NoveL48; 02-25-2014 at 04:21 AM.
02-25-2014, 05:56 AM
#140
So this past weekend, the temperature got up to just over 70. When Monday came, the temp was back in the high 30s/low 40s, and the noise is back! At this point, I'm chalking it up to the oil inside the shock being cold. I've been told that that deceased the viscosity of the oil, thus decreasing dampening. Any insights Pete?
02-25-2014, 08:11 AM
#141
Registered Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
So this past weekend, the temperature got up to just over 70. When Monday came, the temp was back in the high 30s/low 40s, and the noise is back! At this point, I'm chalking it up to the oil inside the shock being cold. I've been told that that deceased the viscosity of the oil, thus decreasing dampening. Any insights Pete?
Great so in the summer the car will have no sound and when its cold its going to BANG!! Cant wait as being in Boston the winter here this past was in the single digits!! An is still in the 20's today
02-25-2014, 08:36 AM
#142
Im getting pretty warn out I guess...........
the ramp test did not exhibit any noise. But its still there.... right rear only, when I drive on smooth (mostly) or rough roads.
I have done this before, but I'm going to try ONE last time.... that is, I increased the preload to 10mm...... with the idea that there would be no way the spring is loose..... I may even go to 15mm or so. If it makes noise then, I dont know what else to do.... if it doesnt, then preload? is somehow the issue, although i am adhering to the rules? Right now, ive got at least 6mm. BTW, I have viewed every useful video I could find online and although some steps of measuring and achieving preload are different, they all in the end do the same thing.... jus saying that im not shootin from the hip.
Wish me luck.
(My instincts tell me the nylon washer between the spring and the adjuster is the culprit IN MY CASE. With the required preload I can pull on spring and recreate the exact noise im hearing.... I can see the spring, washer and adjuster all moving independently. Im gonna figure a way to take up the slack the nylon washer creates with a bandaid.) I'll post back. FYI, my car has 20k miles w no play in any bushings or mounts... the noise began after the coil install..... no other work done at the same time. It was quiet before that. I didnt loosen or touch any other components other than the 2 upper 12mm nuts for shock and the 14mm bolt for lower shock.
Pete, could you view the photo bucket pix I uploaded? Anything obvious? Tx
02-25-2014, 11:02 PM
#144
Id like to start out by saying I've talked to Sam MANY times and he's supposedly a g37 owner himself, and so is Chelsea.. Seems like everyone I talk to owns a g37 over there.... Anyways, The way Sam taught me to adjust my preload is completely different then what the video shows.. And even after adjusting the videos way, and using Sam's procedures. I still have the clunk... (Mine is a Coupe RWD)
The way Sam told me to adjust preload, and adjust ride height, on rears (copied from another thread I submitted this in)
Go to the spring. Those 2 lock rings on top. Move those up to lower (into cars chassis) or down to raise (floor).
Once you've done that, unlock the collar on the strut and twist it right to left, until the spring is on sitting firmly on the 2 lock rings (zero preload)... From here twisting the shock right to left will preload...
Your tech's said you do not have to unto the lower strut bolt, as it doesn't really help with the G37's. (I've confirmed with them, as this was the first time I had heard of this method)
They did not mention anything about raising the spring bucket for preload as twisting the shock, you will eventually be creating preload when the spring starts to sit on the lock rings in their new position...
The 3rd number on your spring is how long your spring is in mm. If you want 8mm of preload, keep preloading with the strut until it is 8mm shorter then what is written.
(230-8 = 222mm) <-- that is what your spring height should be if you want 8mm..
Would Sam's procedures be an effective way to set preload? Or was it just a bunch of nonsense?
Upon talking to Chelsea again last week, He believes that it is my actual strut. He mentioned something about nitrogen in the cartridge, and how that may be what I am experiencing..
The way Sam told me to adjust preload, and adjust ride height, on rears (copied from another thread I submitted this in)
Go to the spring. Those 2 lock rings on top. Move those up to lower (into cars chassis) or down to raise (floor).
Once you've done that, unlock the collar on the strut and twist it right to left, until the spring is on sitting firmly on the 2 lock rings (zero preload)... From here twisting the shock right to left will preload...
Your tech's said you do not have to unto the lower strut bolt, as it doesn't really help with the G37's. (I've confirmed with them, as this was the first time I had heard of this method)
They did not mention anything about raising the spring bucket for preload as twisting the shock, you will eventually be creating preload when the spring starts to sit on the lock rings in their new position...
The 3rd number on your spring is how long your spring is in mm. If you want 8mm of preload, keep preloading with the strut until it is 8mm shorter then what is written.
(230-8 = 222mm) <-- that is what your spring height should be if you want 8mm..
Would Sam's procedures be an effective way to set preload? Or was it just a bunch of nonsense?
Upon talking to Chelsea again last week, He believes that it is my actual strut. He mentioned something about nitrogen in the cartridge, and how that may be what I am experiencing..
There are a few methods of doing preload. The video I posted is if you are starting from a install or changing height. If your height is set then you can skip the part of releasing the spring bucket and start from the rear shock. If you remove the bolt from the lower mount and start with putting a jack under the bucket until the spring is snug, then measure and adjust the shock length accordingly to add preload. You can just leave the bolt in also, but then you really have no idea how much preload you really are dialing in. When I do my preload I personally measure from the center hub to my fender. I also do 1/4-1/2 inch. I make sure to keep it the same measurement on both sides.
In regards to it being a nitrogen issue. Yes it could be. If you have low pressure you could experience some noise issues. This is where changing a shock left to right and right to left will determine if you have a bad shock. Your issue will follow the part.
02-25-2014, 11:10 PM
#145
****! YES.... AN "S" NOT "X". Sorry to throw literal confusion into an already busy issue. Correct... rear wheel drive.
Im getting pretty warn out I guess...........
the ramp test did not exhibit any noise. But its still there.... right rear only, when I drive on smooth (mostly) or rough roads.
I have done this before, but I'm going to try ONE last time.... that is, I increased the preload to 10mm...... with the idea that there would be no way the spring is loose..... I may even go to 15mm or so. If it makes noise then, I dont know what else to do.... if it doesnt, then preload? is somehow the issue, although i am adhering to the rules? Right now, ive got at least 6mm. BTW, I have viewed every useful video I could find online and although some steps of measuring and achieving preload are different, they all in the end do the same thing.... jus saying that im not shootin from the hip.
Wish me luck.
(My instincts tell me the nylon washer between the spring and the adjuster is the culprit IN MY CASE. With the required preload I can pull on spring and recreate the exact noise im hearing.... I can see the spring, washer and adjuster all moving independently. Im gonna figure a way to take up the slack the nylon washer creates with a bandaid.) I'll post back. FYI, my car has 20k miles w no play in any bushings or mounts... the noise began after the coil install..... no other work done at the same time. It was quiet before that. I didnt loosen or touch any other components other than the 2 upper 12mm nuts for shock and the 14mm bolt for lower shock.
Pete, could you view the photo bucket pix I uploaded? Anything obvious? Tx
Im getting pretty warn out I guess...........
the ramp test did not exhibit any noise. But its still there.... right rear only, when I drive on smooth (mostly) or rough roads.
I have done this before, but I'm going to try ONE last time.... that is, I increased the preload to 10mm...... with the idea that there would be no way the spring is loose..... I may even go to 15mm or so. If it makes noise then, I dont know what else to do.... if it doesnt, then preload? is somehow the issue, although i am adhering to the rules? Right now, ive got at least 6mm. BTW, I have viewed every useful video I could find online and although some steps of measuring and achieving preload are different, they all in the end do the same thing.... jus saying that im not shootin from the hip.
Wish me luck.
(My instincts tell me the nylon washer between the spring and the adjuster is the culprit IN MY CASE. With the required preload I can pull on spring and recreate the exact noise im hearing.... I can see the spring, washer and adjuster all moving independently. Im gonna figure a way to take up the slack the nylon washer creates with a bandaid.) I'll post back. FYI, my car has 20k miles w no play in any bushings or mounts... the noise began after the coil install..... no other work done at the same time. It was quiet before that. I didnt loosen or touch any other components other than the 2 upper 12mm nuts for shock and the 14mm bolt for lower shock.
Pete, could you view the photo bucket pix I uploaded? Anything obvious? Tx
I did look it over and nothing really jumps out. I didn't see a shot into the spring bucket. Is the spring sitting properly in the same seating position as OEM? Have you removed the endlinks to rule that out? Was a alignment done after the install? btw where are you located?
02-26-2014, 12:12 AM
#146
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6lw659uklx0xzb9/8VRv74Fg7w
02-26-2014, 12:55 AM
#147
This video was for the fronts (true coilover) preload. This may help a few before the real video is edited and published.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6lw659uklx0xzb9/8VRv74Fg7w
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6lw659uklx0xzb9/8VRv74Fg7w
I'm set on 22/20, but I think I have to go stiffer
Now I need an alignment.
02-26-2014, 06:30 PM
#148
Sorry bud, been tied up.
I did look it over and nothing really jumps out. I didn't see a shot into the spring bucket. Is the spring sitting properly in the same seating position as OEM? Have you removed the endlinks to rule that out? Was a alignment done after the install? btw where are you located?
I did look it over and nothing really jumps out. I didn't see a shot into the spring bucket. Is the spring sitting properly in the same seating position as OEM? Have you removed the endlinks to rule that out? Was a alignment done after the install? btw where are you located?
Not a problem.... I'm not on here everyday either, thanks for getting back to me.
No alignment yet, wanna get all of this resolved before I spend money to do that.... so no other components were affected or loosened up.
The end links are tight. Never had any noise whatsoever until the upgraded suspension.... and there is only 20k miles on the car. As far as the spring, it sits in the bucket ....both sides the same with the end of the spring where its supposed to be..... I've even had the springs out since the original install.
The car is on the eastern shore of Md....... the "****house side of the bridge." (some local slang)
Weather not condusive to anything this weekend coming, but if you have any suggestions.... I'm all ears. Rick