Finger on trigger: Stance coilovers (and toe arms) questions

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Old 12-24-2013 | 07:39 PM
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Finger on trigger: Stance coilovers (and toe arms) questions

Ok, so I'm finally going to get some Stance SS TRUE TYPE (non-OEM) coils for my 2011 sedan. My plan is to drop with no gap on some 20s and a 35 series tire. I've done some research on the width and offset, and I need to achieve -2 camber in the front and -2.5 in the rear. I also want to run ZERO toe in the front and back. Since I plan on getting the true type coilover, I need to get toe arms (and not bolts).

1) vendor with least expensive pricing?
2) are toe arms better than toe bolts? I've heard that bolts tend to shift and move every so often. Arms seem to be more sturdy. Plus I don't want to deal with elongating the hole.
3) is the toe bolt lock out kit only for use with the bolts? Anyone running these?
4) will it be necessary to get toe arms to achieve 0.0 toe front and back?

Last edited by JC-RH; 12-26-2013 at 01:36 AM. Reason: Updated the type of coilover
Old 12-25-2013 | 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by JC-RH
Ok, so I'm finally going to get some Stance SS TRUE TYPE (OEM) coils for my 2011 sedan. My plan is to drop with no gap on some 20s and a 35 series tire. I've done some research on the width and offset, and I need to achieve -2 camber in the front and -2.5 in the rear. I also want to run ZERO toe in the front and back. Since I plan on getting the OEM type true coilover, I need to get toe arms (and not bolts).

1) vendor with least expensive pricing?
2) are toe arms better than toe bolts? I've heard that bolts tend to shift and move every so often. Arms seem to be more sturdy. Plus I don't want to deal with elongating the hole.
3) is the toe bolt lock out kit only for use with the bolts? Anyone running these?
4) will it be necessary to get toe arms to achieve 0.0 toe front and back?
Just to clarify, you state "true type OEM" coilovers, are you going w/ true coilovers or the OEM separate spring/shock setup? Since you mentioned getting toe arms I assume you'll be getting true rather than OEM coils. The toe arms replace the lower control arm (aka "spring bucket") and the concentric oem toe adjusting bolt.
The toe bolt locks work w/ the toe bolts and rather than having 360 degrees of toe adjustment you'll have (4) 90 degree selections so fine tuning of your toe will be harder to achieve, but won't be prone to shifting under duress.
I assume you're having to run high camber to get aggressive offset wheels to clear the inner fender edge, if not I'd shoot for much lower camber for better wear. I'd also run just a bit of toe in for a bit better cornering but zero toe will be a bit better straight line.
Oh, and you don't have to get toe arms w/ true coilovers, you can still use the OEM spring bucket as your toe adjuster but toe arms are probably the best route w/ the true coil sets.
Toe in front is adjustable to zero w/out any additional parts, the rear you will need either the toe arms or elongated rear toe bolt kit.
Old 12-26-2013 | 01:14 AM
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Thanks so much for the detailed response. I did mean true type (non-OEM). I don't know what I was thinking when I typed that.

Would you recommend I buy the coilovers first only? I can always install the coils, wait a few days to settle, and then get my alignment. Depending on how the alignment spec is, then I'll go with the toe arms.

Does anyone know the price of toe bolts vs toe arms?
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