Help Choosing Coilovers
#19
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iTrader: (13)
All coilovers require that you remove them to adjust the height, the fronts don't take too long, unbolt the end links, unbolt the lower strut mount, adjust height, and reinstall. The rears (if you have the OEM type) require that you adjust the rear spring collar, preload the spring, then adjust rear shock. Should take about an hour to do a height adjustment on most coilovers once you get the hang of it. Adjusting the damping is real simple, just turn the adjustment ****, my coilovers I have to jack the rear up to access the damping control, not sure about the Stance, but should be similar and pretty simple.
#20
All coilovers require that you remove them to adjust the height, the fronts don't take too long, unbolt the end links, unbolt the lower strut mount, adjust height, and reinstall. The rears (if you have the OEM type) require that you adjust the rear spring collar, preload the spring, then adjust rear shock. Should take about an hour to do a height adjustment on most coilovers once you get the hang of it. Adjusting the damping is real simple, just turn the adjustment ****, my coilovers I have to jack the rear up to access the damping control, not sure about the Stance, but should be similar and pretty simple.
Hope you can help me when I actually have the setup ready to install.
Last edited by teonguyen; 09-23-2013 at 11:27 PM.
#21
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iTrader: (13)
Thanks sir, it s really awesome that you have rich knowledge to help everybody out. I haven't ordered it yet but got a quote for $1000 on Stance OEM style and can't wait to get it next month or so. I m just trying to gather as much info as I can to avoid any confusion. The term preload the really confuses me n I just can't figure out how to do it right cause ppl keep say not too tight or loose
Hope you can help me when I actually have the setup ready to install.
Hope you can help me when I actually have the setup ready to install.
As far as preload, since you're going w/ the OEM type you just adjust the height collar on your spring to get close to the height you want (rarely will you get it perfect the first time), then w/ your rear half of the car on jackstands you go from having no load on the spring bucket to about 1/4" to a 1/2" of compression (might contact Stance to see the exact preload they recommend) once you get this compression you then adjust your rear shock length, this will keep load on your shock at all times while you're driving so the spring won't be loose even when the spring is fully extended.
The fronts are preloaded from the factory so no worries there
#22
Finally the Stance and SPC arms have been delivered this morning. Also I wanted to thank Luke @ THMotorsport (Stance) and Charles @ B2autodesign (SPC kits) for giving very good deal on these two items. I decided to give some update as well as have some questions prior installation next week..
The whole set up is heavy (65-66lbs)
My first impression is very well built and nice finish. There are no marking R or L on the strut bodies, so they must be interchangeable. I ordered the OEM style , the front struts also have the slots for brake lines. Some members reported there are no slots for brakes lines, and they ended up using zip ties to keep'em in place. Could that only be on the true coil setup (some one please correct me if I am wrong.)
I think I will have no problems to adjust height for the front since the springs and struts are all together. All I have to do is to spin the lowest collars to obtain the height.
I still can't figure out how to adjust height for the rear since the struts and springs are separated. How do i know what setting should I adjust for both to work correctly
This is highest setting I tried this morning for the rear springs.
Also, should I put back the OEM rubber seats on top of the threaded cups?
Here are couple pics of SPC front control arms. Not sure but these may be the new versions..
Thank you for looking, I will have more pics when I install these next week.....
The whole set up is heavy (65-66lbs)
My first impression is very well built and nice finish. There are no marking R or L on the strut bodies, so they must be interchangeable. I ordered the OEM style , the front struts also have the slots for brake lines. Some members reported there are no slots for brakes lines, and they ended up using zip ties to keep'em in place. Could that only be on the true coil setup (some one please correct me if I am wrong.)
I think I will have no problems to adjust height for the front since the springs and struts are all together. All I have to do is to spin the lowest collars to obtain the height.
I still can't figure out how to adjust height for the rear since the struts and springs are separated. How do i know what setting should I adjust for both to work correctly
This is highest setting I tried this morning for the rear springs.
Also, should I put back the OEM rubber seats on top of the threaded cups?
Here are couple pics of SPC front control arms. Not sure but these may be the new versions..
Thank you for looking, I will have more pics when I install these next week.....
Last edited by teonguyen; 09-28-2013 at 03:43 PM.
#23
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iTrader: (13)
You only adjust height w/ the spring collar, you then preload the spring then adjust your shock length. Be sure to keep enough thread left on the collar to safely seat the spring, a half
Inch should be fine. My coils don't have that upper rubber spring ring, I assume this would replace the OEM rubber and should provide decent sound isolation. Be sure to have that spc stamp to the outside when you mount those arms, otherwise your alignment will be hard to correct.
Inch should be fine. My coils don't have that upper rubber spring ring, I assume this would replace the OEM rubber and should provide decent sound isolation. Be sure to have that spc stamp to the outside when you mount those arms, otherwise your alignment will be hard to correct.
Last edited by blnewt; 09-28-2013 at 11:55 PM.
#24
You only adjust height w/ the spring collar, you then preload the spring then adjust your shock length. Be sure to keep enough thread left on the collar to safely seat the spring, a half
Inch should be fine. My coils don't have that upper rubber spring ring, I assume this would replace the OEM rubber and should provide decent sound isolation. Be sure to have that spc stamp to the outside when you mount those arms, otherwise your alignment will be hard to correct.
Inch should be fine. My coils don't have that upper rubber spring ring, I assume this would replace the OEM rubber and should provide decent sound isolation. Be sure to have that spc stamp to the outside when you mount those arms, otherwise your alignment will be hard to correct.
Oh just bought the cutoff wheel this morning. Hopefully to get the toe bolts done next friday...
Last edited by teonguyen; 09-29-2013 at 01:16 AM.
#25
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iTrader: (13)
I assume they didn't come w/ decent instructions, hopefully this will help. From your pics it looks like you had the spring upside down, the wider part of the spring goes down in the aluminum spring bucket. You won't use the big rubber cone anymore, at least that was the case w/ mine and all the other coils I've seen. the rubber ring on your collar is different than my coils but it looks to be a better rubber cushion going on top of the collar and fitting into the upper spring cup
As far as adjusting, the only height adjustment is done w/ the threaded spring collar. I'd start at the highest safe setting, adjust the collar about a half inch from the bottom, insert smaller end of spring on the collar. Once you get it all fitted and seated properly you then put a quarter to half inch of compression on the free hanging spring bucket. The car must be on jack stands to keep the buckets unloaded. Once you have the spring compressed you then adjust the shock length so at full extension it mates up to the shock mount. What this does is keep your springs preloaded at all times, since the only thing holding your springs is force you need to have downward load on them at full decompression too. Hope that makes sense and you might contact Stance just to be sure the exact preload they recommend.
Good luck my friend
As far as adjusting, the only height adjustment is done w/ the threaded spring collar. I'd start at the highest safe setting, adjust the collar about a half inch from the bottom, insert smaller end of spring on the collar. Once you get it all fitted and seated properly you then put a quarter to half inch of compression on the free hanging spring bucket. The car must be on jack stands to keep the buckets unloaded. Once you have the spring compressed you then adjust the shock length so at full extension it mates up to the shock mount. What this does is keep your springs preloaded at all times, since the only thing holding your springs is force you need to have downward load on them at full decompression too. Hope that makes sense and you might contact Stance just to be sure the exact preload they recommend.
Good luck my friend
Last edited by blnewt; 09-29-2013 at 11:39 AM.
#26
I assume they didn't come w/ decent instructions, hopefully this will help. From your pics it looks like you had the spring upside down, the wider part of the spring goes down in the aluminum spring bucket. You won't use the big rubber cone anymore, at least that was the case w/ mine and all the other coils I've seen. the rubber ring on your collar is different than my coils but it looks to be a better rubber cushion going on top of the collar and fitting into the upper spring cup
As far as adjusting, the only height adjustment is done w/ the threaded spring collar. I'd start at the highest safe setting, adjust the collar about a half inch from the bottom, insert smaller end of spring on the collar. Once you get it all fitted and seated properly you then put a quarter to half inch of compression on the free hanging spring bucket. The car must be on jack stands to keep the buckets unloaded. Once you have the spring compressed you then adjust the shock length so at full extension it mates up to the shock mount. What this does is keep your springs preloaded at all times, since the only thing holding your springs is force you need to have downward load on them at full decompression too. Hope that makes sense and you might contact Stance just to be sure the exact preload they recommend.
Good luck my friend
As far as adjusting, the only height adjustment is done w/ the threaded spring collar. I'd start at the highest safe setting, adjust the collar about a half inch from the bottom, insert smaller end of spring on the collar. Once you get it all fitted and seated properly you then put a quarter to half inch of compression on the free hanging spring bucket. The car must be on jack stands to keep the buckets unloaded. Once you have the spring compressed you then adjust the shock length so at full extension it mates up to the shock mount. What this does is keep your springs preloaded at all times, since the only thing holding your springs is force you need to have downward load on them at full decompression too. Hope that makes sense and you might contact Stance just to be sure the exact preload they recommend.
Good luck my friend
I have to say their instruction sucks big time , it instructs how to turn the lower collars and bodies to adjust height for the true coil setup only , nothing about OEM style.
If I flip the spring the other side, all the reading on the springs will be upside down and the threaded cups will not be in good contact with the springs anymore, cause 1 side of the spring is flat and the other side is round. Oh the thing (threaded cups) I put on the spring is not rubber at all, i don't know what it is made of , but it s sure heavy (may be steel or aluminum.)
I am reading your instructions slowly and words by words, kinda understand and figure it out. This is highest setting and I can't move the collars downward anymore, it is locked and about quarter inch left..
I think i will move quarter inch up,
The part you mentioned in red. it means once I have the spring installed and the bucket mounted back in place (spring compress) then I will measure the height of the strut to match up with the lower shock mount??? because the lower shock mount will also be moved up/down when the spring is compressed at different high setting. If this is correct, i think you have completely educated me chapter 1 of coilovers 101. If i have to adjust height in the future , I will just have to following this step again?
1.Unbolt the strut mount
2.Adjust spring height
3.Adjust strut body
4.Re-mount the strut - done
Thanks.
#27
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
You know what Brad!! why don't you fly over TX and give me a lesson on coilovers and suspensions 101 so I can stop bothering......
I have to say their instruction sucks big time , it instructs how to turn the lower collars and bodies to adjust height for the true coil setup only , nothing about OEM style.
If I flip the spring the other side, all the reading on the springs will be upside down and the threaded cups will not be in good contact with the springs anymore, cause 1 side of the spring is flat and the other side is round. Oh the thing (threaded cups) I put on the spring is not rubber at all, i don't know what it is made of , but it s sure heavy (may be steel or aluminum.)
I am reading your instructions slowly and words by words, kinda understand and figure it out. This is highest setting and I can't move the collars downward anymore, it is locked and about quarter inch left..
I think i will move quarter inch up,
The part you mentioned in red. it means once I have the spring installed and the bucket mounted back in place (spring compress) then I will measure the height of the strut to match up with the lower shock mount??? because the lower shock mount will also be moved up/down when the spring is compressed at different high setting. If this is correct, i think you have completely educated me chapter 1 of coilovers 101. If i have to adjust height in the future , I will just have to following this step again?
1.Unbolt the strut mount
2.Adjust spring height
3.Adjust strut body
4.Re-mount the strut - done
Thanks.
I have to say their instruction sucks big time , it instructs how to turn the lower collars and bodies to adjust height for the true coil setup only , nothing about OEM style.
If I flip the spring the other side, all the reading on the springs will be upside down and the threaded cups will not be in good contact with the springs anymore, cause 1 side of the spring is flat and the other side is round. Oh the thing (threaded cups) I put on the spring is not rubber at all, i don't know what it is made of , but it s sure heavy (may be steel or aluminum.)
I am reading your instructions slowly and words by words, kinda understand and figure it out. This is highest setting and I can't move the collars downward anymore, it is locked and about quarter inch left..
I think i will move quarter inch up,
The part you mentioned in red. it means once I have the spring installed and the bucket mounted back in place (spring compress) then I will measure the height of the strut to match up with the lower shock mount??? because the lower shock mount will also be moved up/down when the spring is compressed at different high setting. If this is correct, i think you have completely educated me chapter 1 of coilovers 101. If i have to adjust height in the future , I will just have to following this step again?
1.Unbolt the strut mount
2.Adjust spring height
3.Adjust strut body
4.Re-mount the strut - done
Thanks.
As far as readjusting height, just be sure to preload the springs each time you change the collar setting, and it seems like 10mm is pretty standard for preload amount.
Just snug up bolts until you get the height you want, then do a final torque to spec F&R.
,
#29
Been working on elongating the toe bolts and installing the stance coilovers and F/R camber kits since Friday. It was exhausted and I could not be able to adjust desired height. The springs just kept settling down. Tried to get 261/2 all around. The rear almost maxed out and stayed at 261/4 rite now; front was set to 261/2 but now it 25 3/8 . I got no ideas why it kept getting lower and lower
Drove the car around the neighbor and everything was scraping and rubbing, also I know it needs immediate alignment. Don't know if i can make to alignment shop. I will raise the rear all the way up tmr and hopefully to get the front figured out as well. Just so tired of jacking up the car, removing wheels , bolts, stuts.......
Drove the car around the neighbor and everything was scraping and rubbing, also I know it needs immediate alignment. Don't know if i can make to alignment shop. I will raise the rear all the way up tmr and hopefully to get the front figured out as well. Just so tired of jacking up the car, removing wheels , bolts, stuts.......
#30
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
Been working on elongating the toe bolts and installing the stance coilovers and F/R camber kits since Friday. It was exhausted and I could not be able to adjust desired height. The springs just kept settling down. Tried to get 261/2 all around. The rear almost maxed out and stayed at 261/4 rite now; front was set to 261/2 but now it 25 3/8 . I got no ideas why it kept getting lower and lower
Drove the car around the neighbor and everything was scraping and rubbing, also I know it needs immediate alignment. Don't know if i can make to alignment shop. I will raise the rear all the way up tmr and hopefully to get the front figured out as well. Just so tired of jacking up the car, removing wheels , bolts, stuts.......
Drove the car around the neighbor and everything was scraping and rubbing, also I know it needs immediate alignment. Don't know if i can make to alignment shop. I will raise the rear all the way up tmr and hopefully to get the front figured out as well. Just so tired of jacking up the car, removing wheels , bolts, stuts.......
Good Luck and post pics if you continue running into trouble.
Be really careful if you're cruising under 26" in front, lots of things can get in your way
Also don't drive it much until you get it aligned
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teonguyen (10-06-2013)