Alignment Woes - II
#16
RMLs finally came in -- were on back order.
I ordered Swift springs that have smaller diameter b/c the KW V3 springs are an inch too big around for the RML cup/seat.
I cannot get the Toe AND the Camber within specifications at my current height and wheel set up, hence this new, planned approach.
Thanks for the input.
I still hope someone else out there might report on doing this already.
I ordered Swift springs that have smaller diameter b/c the KW V3 springs are an inch too big around for the RML cup/seat.
I cannot get the Toe AND the Camber within specifications at my current height and wheel set up, hence this new, planned approach.
Thanks for the input.
I still hope someone else out there might report on doing this already.
#17
superjoey, did you install the SPC toe bolts in back, should get you well in spec.
There's been cases where the shop installed the new SPC toe bolts but didn't elongate the slot, rendering them no better than OEM.
There's been cases where the shop installed the new SPC toe bolts but didn't elongate the slot, rendering them no better than OEM.
#18
I looked into those. One alignment shop said they could dremel the slots but they couldn't guarantee the results. They said the best way was to get the adjustable mid links. I currently have KW V3's and I want to keep the springs but I have a feeling the KW springs aren't compatible with the SPL rear mid links. I think I will try the SPC toe bolts first.
#19
I looked into those. One alignment shop said they could dremel the slots but they couldn't guarantee the results. They said the best way was to get the adjustable mid links. I currently have KW V3's and I want to keep the springs but I have a feeling the KW springs aren't compatible with the SPL rear mid links. I think I will try the SPC toe bolts first.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html
#20
Here's a info link that should help, this is something that isn't a hard DIY if you have the dremel
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html
https://youtu.be/Av9f6GOAf20
Quick question though, the video shows the guy elongating one slot per side. The pdf instructions say there are two slots per side. Are we supposed to elongate the slots facing the front of the car?
#21
Wow. Thanks! I also found a video that SPC put out on you tube.
https://youtu.be/Av9f6GOAf20
Quick question though, the video shows the guy elongating one slot per side. The pdf instructions say there are two slots per side. Are we supposed to elongate the slots facing the front of the car?
https://youtu.be/Av9f6GOAf20
Quick question though, the video shows the guy elongating one slot per side. The pdf instructions say there are two slots per side. Are we supposed to elongate the slots facing the front of the car?
#22
Just a thought:
It seems adjustable coilovers frequently have a too-low max height setting. I've seen the coments about this for several brands.
When I ordered my F500s THMoto and Fortune both recommended using Swift springs and specifically an 8" spring in the rear as the stock fortune springs (7"?) would not allow a max height range most street/DD folks wanted.
As for rear toe adjustments, what Newt said.
If that's the only concern, elongating the slot is a common solution and less expensive than a lower control/spring arm, and you might get away with using your current springs if they aren't too short.
It seems adjustable coilovers frequently have a too-low max height setting. I've seen the coments about this for several brands.
When I ordered my F500s THMoto and Fortune both recommended using Swift springs and specifically an 8" spring in the rear as the stock fortune springs (7"?) would not allow a max height range most street/DD folks wanted.
As for rear toe adjustments, what Newt said.
If that's the only concern, elongating the slot is a common solution and less expensive than a lower control/spring arm, and you might get away with using your current springs if they aren't too short.
#23
If you're just trying to make toe corrections and NOT camber, all you need is this toe bolt, correct? Also, is there a toe kit for the front suspension?
(Hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread OP, but I didn't see a reason to start another thread lol)
(Hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread OP, but I didn't see a reason to start another thread lol)
#24
And toe in front is fully adjustable w/ the steering tie rods.
#25
Finally got my SPC toe bolts (http://www.spcalignment.com/index.ph...it_form=Submit) installed a few days ago. The alignment was done and everything is now within spec! All green on the report. The alignment shop guy was skeptical at first. He didn't like the idea of cutting/drilling/dremmeling into the subframe. He also worried that it still wouldn't be enough to adjust the toe back into spec. These bolts are supposed to give an additional + or - 2 degrees of adjustment. My toe wasn't off by that much so I felt it would work. He also suggested getting adjustable midlinks instead (Rear Adjustable Toe Midlinks for the 370Z and G37 | SPL Parts), but not only are they expensive, they weren't compatible with my KW3's.
I even wrote down the youtube link (
) and gave it to the alignment shop. I felt kinda weird giving it them as if I was telling them how to do their job, but the guy was cool about it.
Thanks blnewt for the recommendation.
I even wrote down the youtube link (
Thanks blnewt for the recommendation.
#26
Just say no!!!!!
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If *I* were doing it, I'd go the spl route too. I'm not a big fan of toe bolts either. There is a possibility of them getting knocked out of adjustment. The spl links on the other hand are like tie rod ends, you adjust, then lock them in place.
#27
Originally Posted by Jsolo
If *I* were doing it, I'd go the spl route too. I'm not a big fan of toe bolts either. There is a possibility of them getting knocked out of adjustment. The spl links on the other hand are like tie rod ends, you adjust, then lock them in place.
I'm all for it if it solves a tough problem though. I'd love to have them myself.
It's not like it'll make the owners life any easier as he won't be doing his own alignment, ever.
#28
FWIW I've had the toe bolts locked down for about 60k miles and about 4 years give or take. I've hit some pretty horrendous potholes and living where I do the roads are about as bad as you could imagine. My alignment is still as it was from day 1, I'm sure there are instances where the toe bolts could get jarred enough that they would require fresh adjustment, but that would have to be a pretty extreme impact IMO.
#29
IMO
They both take about the same time to install,
I think one would be hard pressed to show the bolts don't hold a set.(unless tracking hard and often)
And the shop will still charge the same for alignment, either way.
So unless there is a specific fitment the SPL arms resolve, I don't think there's much harm trying them first.
They both take about the same time to install,
I think one would be hard pressed to show the bolts don't hold a set.(unless tracking hard and often)
And the shop will still charge the same for alignment, either way.
So unless there is a specific fitment the SPL arms resolve, I don't think there's much harm trying them first.
#30
I had toe bolts installed and haven't had issues with them being loose. I have had a lot of silly issues with my suspension however. The KWv3 are too low in the rear for the sedan so I have put in the spacers (kills the warranty?) and my SPL rear end-links were shot after just a year. The heim joints started squeaking and were loose. I am going to contact SPL and will post a video here. I have SPL front and rear arms and HAD their front links as well but changed all the endlinks back to OEM.