Help Kw v3 owners
04-18-2013, 07:58 AM
#1
Kw v3 owners
I will be performing a 'DYI' on my KW3's tomorrow. In the meantime, I've been doing some research and in my research I've gotten back some interesting and conflicting information. I'd like to know if any other owners can assist with the following:
- The instructions suggest using the bottom rubber support in the rear spring tray. I was told that using that rubber support will prevent me from going as low as I would like which is 25' from fender edge to the ground. Can anyone provide feedback on experience with this. At one time I had Tanabe's which was designed just like KW's and had no issue.
- My rear struts came with 2 nuts per strut for the upper mount but other's have told me that they were only given one nut per strut to secure the upper mount. Can anyone comment to this?
- Some say that an impact wrench is necessary to attach and secure the upper mounts but the instructions call for precise torque specs. How critical is not to use the torque wrench vs. making sure the torque specs are precise?
Essentially I'd like any feedback regarding the topis areas I mentioned.
- The instructions suggest using the bottom rubber support in the rear spring tray. I was told that using that rubber support will prevent me from going as low as I would like which is 25' from fender edge to the ground. Can anyone provide feedback on experience with this. At one time I had Tanabe's which was designed just like KW's and had no issue.
- My rear struts came with 2 nuts per strut for the upper mount but other's have told me that they were only given one nut per strut to secure the upper mount. Can anyone comment to this?
- Some say that an impact wrench is necessary to attach and secure the upper mounts but the instructions call for precise torque specs. How critical is not to use the torque wrench vs. making sure the torque specs are precise?
Essentially I'd like any feedback regarding the topis areas I mentioned.
04-18-2013, 08:09 AM
#2
Dunno about your first issue.
There should be 2 nuts per rear shock to mount them at the top.
Torque everything to spec. Impact tools are very useful for removing suspension parts, but torque properly when installing. I'm not sure exactly what fasteners you're referring to on the upper mounts, but the 2 nuts in the rear require very little torque. Ditto for the 3 in front that hold the upper mounts to the body. It's important not to over torque those because you can damage the studs by doing so.
There should be 2 nuts per rear shock to mount them at the top.
Torque everything to spec. Impact tools are very useful for removing suspension parts, but torque properly when installing. I'm not sure exactly what fasteners you're referring to on the upper mounts, but the 2 nuts in the rear require very little torque. Ditto for the 3 in front that hold the upper mounts to the body. It's important not to over torque those because you can damage the studs by doing so.
04-18-2013, 08:25 AM
#3
To be more clear I am not referring to the install of the struts to the car. I am referring to assembly of the coils...the assembly of the stock upper pillow mounts
Dunno about your first issue.
There should be 2 nuts per rear shock to mount them at the top.
Torque everything to spec. Impact tools are very useful for removing suspension parts, but torque properly when installing. I'm not sure exactly what fasteners you're referring to on the upper mounts, but the 2 nuts in the rear require very little torque. Ditto for the 3 in front that hold the upper mounts to the body. It's important not to over torque those because you can damage the studs by doing so.
There should be 2 nuts per rear shock to mount them at the top.
Torque everything to spec. Impact tools are very useful for removing suspension parts, but torque properly when installing. I'm not sure exactly what fasteners you're referring to on the upper mounts, but the 2 nuts in the rear require very little torque. Ditto for the 3 in front that hold the upper mounts to the body. It's important not to over torque those because you can damage the studs by doing so.
04-18-2013, 10:27 AM
#4
The large nut that holds the upper mount to the strut rod? DO NOT use an impact wrench on that. 1) It doesn't need that much torque and 2) using an impact gun will spin the strut rod and possibly cause damage. It is only to be torqued to 44 ft.lbs. Use 2 wrenches. An offset wrench to tighten the the nut (I think it's 17mm) and an 8 mm open end wrench on the sides of the strut rod to prevent is spinning as you tighten. Place the offset wrench on the nut and tighten it while holding the flat sides of the strut rod with the other wrench.
04-18-2013, 10:32 AM
#5
The first issue is 100% false. I had mine right at 25" ride height in the rear, with plenty to go!
This is a known issue on the 370 though, which is really weird, but many take the rubber stopper out to go lower. THIS is NOT an issue on the G's.
This is a known issue on the 370 though, which is really weird, but many take the rubber stopper out to go lower. THIS is NOT an issue on the G's.
04-18-2013, 10:33 AM
#6
Not sure about the V3, but the two nuts included for your rears could be (1) for the top mount and (2) for the bottom, if it's not welded into the shock body like it is for OEM.
The bottom rubber mount will act like a spacer. Personally, i'd go without it if that's what's recommended for your application. Any spacer to the spring, multiple by about 1.6 IIRC and that's how much height you'll gain -- or basically, if it's 1" tall, expect a 1.6" height increase.
The top mounts should be manually torqued down, but you need special tools to hold the nut while using a torque wrench to tighten things down. If your hands are "calibrated" you can just tighten by feel.
Worst-case scenario, you can theoretically use an impact to tighten it, but make sure it's just 2-3 very short quick bursts at high power. This will cause the nut to turn before the rod itself will turn. If you just keep hitting it with the impact, the whole rod will just keep spinning, causing damage.
The bottom rubber mount will act like a spacer. Personally, i'd go without it if that's what's recommended for your application. Any spacer to the spring, multiple by about 1.6 IIRC and that's how much height you'll gain -- or basically, if it's 1" tall, expect a 1.6" height increase.
The top mounts should be manually torqued down, but you need special tools to hold the nut while using a torque wrench to tighten things down. If your hands are "calibrated" you can just tighten by feel.
Worst-case scenario, you can theoretically use an impact to tighten it, but make sure it's just 2-3 very short quick bursts at high power. This will cause the nut to turn before the rod itself will turn. If you just keep hitting it with the impact, the whole rod will just keep spinning, causing damage.
04-18-2013, 10:35 AM
#7
Yes, the nut that hold sthe upper mount to the strut rod...except I didnt get a large one. I got what you see in the pic below.
What you're looking at is the tip of the strut rod with the nuts attached. Eeach of the rear strut rods came with the two nuts you see on there.
What you're looking at is the tip of the strut rod with the nuts attached. Eeach of the rear strut rods came with the two nuts you see on there.
The large nut that holds the upper mount to the strut rod? DO NOT use an impact wrench on that. 1) It doesn't need that much torque and 2) using an impact gun will spin the strut rod and possibly cause damage. It is only to be torqued to 44 ft.lbs. Use 2 wrenches. An offset wrench to tighten the the nut (I think it's 17mm) and an 8 mm open end wrench on the sides of the strut rod to prevent is spinning as you tighten. Place the offset wrench on the nut and tighten it while holding the flat sides of the strut rod with the other wrench.
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04-18-2013, 10:40 AM
#8
Thanks for the info.
As for the nuts, I have a seperate set for the the bottom.
As for the nuts, I have a seperate set for the the bottom.
Not sure about the V3, but the two nuts included for your rears could be (1) for the top mount and (2) for the bottom, if it's not welded into the shock body like it is for OEM.
The bottom rubber mount will act like a spacer. Personally, i'd go without it if that's what's recommended for your application. Any spacer to the spring, multiple by about 1.6 IIRC and that's how much height you'll gain -- or basically, if it's 1" tall, expect a 1.6" height increase.
The top mounts should be manually torqued down, but you need special tools to hold the nut while using a torque wrench to tighten things down. If your hands are "calibrated" you can just tighten by feel.
Worst-case scenario, you can theoretically use an impact to tighten it, but make sure it's just 2-3 very short quick bursts at high power. This will cause the nut to turn before the rod itself will turn. If you just keep hitting it with the impact, the whole rod will just keep spinning, causing damage.
The bottom rubber mount will act like a spacer. Personally, i'd go without it if that's what's recommended for your application. Any spacer to the spring, multiple by about 1.6 IIRC and that's how much height you'll gain -- or basically, if it's 1" tall, expect a 1.6" height increase.
The top mounts should be manually torqued down, but you need special tools to hold the nut while using a torque wrench to tighten things down. If your hands are "calibrated" you can just tighten by feel.
Worst-case scenario, you can theoretically use an impact to tighten it, but make sure it's just 2-3 very short quick bursts at high power. This will cause the nut to turn before the rod itself will turn. If you just keep hitting it with the impact, the whole rod will just keep spinning, causing damage.
04-18-2013, 12:04 PM
#13
I actually hadn't heard about it all until I've been on the370z.com the last 6 months or so since I sold my car. Its a pretty large thread on KW V3's and the limitations on the Z. I brought over my experience with G37's and they said its known that in the G's it has no affect, but on the Z's it does.
I didn't have my rear maxed out to acheive 25"(fender to the ground), I probably could have ran close to 24" with no issues. Keep in mind that I did NOT run rubberband tires, running 275/30/20 in the rear. If I would have ran a 265 or 255, it probably would have been a bit lower w/ stretching the tire. I have a buddy with KW V1's which he's at 24.25 in the rear and STILL can lower it more!
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BosMaSwaG37 (04-18-2013)
04-18-2013, 12:14 PM
#14
It doesnt necessarily have to be done on the vehicle, that's just how it's shown in this photo. That nut can be tightened with the strut unit off of the car, but you'll need to find a way to hold the assembly firm and stable while you are using both hands on the wrenches. A bench vise would work. But mostly it's easier to get that top nut started on the rod and tighten it down until the rod starts to spin. Then mount it in the car (so the car is holding it in place) and finish torquing it down. At least that's how I do it, it's not necessarily the only way or best way. Just what works easiest for me.
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BosMaSwaG37 (04-18-2013)
04-18-2013, 12:21 PM
#15
What you're syaing is exactly what I expected from brand such as KW so when I was told otherwise I was a little hesitiant to believe it. I'm running 255 so I'll be fine.
I actually hadn't heard about it all until I've been on the370z.com the last 6 months or so since I sold my car. Its a pretty large thread on KW V3's and the limitations on the Z. I brought over my experience with G37's and they said its known that in the G's it has no affect, but on the Z's it does.
I didn't have my rear maxed out to acheive 25"(fender to the ground), I probably could have ran close to 24" with no issues. Keep in mind that I did NOT run rubberband tires, running 275/30/20 in the rear. If I would have ran a 265 or 255, it probably would have been a bit lower w/ stretching the tire. I have a buddy with KW V1's which he's at 24.25 in the rear and STILL can lower it more!
I didn't have my rear maxed out to acheive 25"(fender to the ground), I probably could have ran close to 24" with no issues. Keep in mind that I did NOT run rubberband tires, running 275/30/20 in the rear. If I would have ran a 265 or 255, it probably would have been a bit lower w/ stretching the tire. I have a buddy with KW V1's which he's at 24.25 in the rear and STILL can lower it more!