Track day brakes
#1
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Track day brakes
Hi all, I attended my first track day at Putnam Park this last weekend. My brakes faded to the floor at the end of the front straight. It was on the about the eight 20min session, 2nd day. I severely grooved my front rotors and boiled the fluid. I would love to hear any input on best brake parts for a combination street and occasional track day setup. There are plenty of ads but would like to hear some experienced advice from the forum. Bone stock 2013 g37x s. thanks in advance.
Last edited by Fastbastard; 04-08-2013 at 11:07 AM. Reason: more inf added
#3
The brakes on the G are sport brakes but not really meant for heavy usage track use, if you don't want to spend big bucks I know people that just slap on some high performance brake pads and call it a day
Last edited by DONTTASEMEBRO; 04-08-2013 at 12:27 PM. Reason: didn't finish
#4
he has a g37 X S
meaning he doesnt have akebonos ( i think )
if you like track and all, I wouldnt get akebonos with the money you would spend, spend a little more and get bigger and better ones,
I saw a G37 coupe with GTR brembo in the front and akebono in the rear. all around drilled rotors, I would do that combo if i were you.
meaning he doesnt have akebonos ( i think )
if you like track and all, I wouldnt get akebonos with the money you would spend, spend a little more and get bigger and better ones,
I saw a G37 coupe with GTR brembo in the front and akebono in the rear. all around drilled rotors, I would do that combo if i were you.
#5
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i would like to track 2 0r 3 times a year. I have seen how brutal that is on stock sport brake pads and rotors. I woud like some recomedations on good pads, rotor and fluid combos before i make the jump to a bbk.
#6
As already mentioned you do not have sport brakes (I have an xs also, so Im not putting you down). Our sports are merely a visual appearence package. For 2-3 times a year I would not spend serious money. Maybe just upgrade to hps pads, some stoptech rotors, and stainless brake lines. They will be somewhat dusty but should improve your performance without braking the bank (pun intended).
A nice set of tires could also help things out.
A nice set of tires could also help things out.
Last edited by Redpit; 04-08-2013 at 02:55 PM.
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thank you all very much. i'm a newbie to this car but the calipers do seem like they should be substancial enough for couple of days a year, Redpit you're thinking like me, you like hps brembos and stoptech rotors, know a good high temp fluid? You can't put me down, its all up from here. thanks
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#8
Seems like a lot of people like Motul RBF600 for brake fluid. The only downside is you might have to change it more frequently. The HPS pads i was referring to are made by Hawk, just fyi.
#9
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Has anyone fabricated cooling ducts? Or - are they available from any site?
I would suspect heat buildup as the primary culprit to the failure. The 370z has the same issue according to magazine tests (C&D? MT? I forget...)
I would suspect heat buildup as the primary culprit to the failure. The 370z has the same issue according to magazine tests (C&D? MT? I forget...)
#11
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I just looked at the turn-by-turn and a couple vids on YT. Seems like a small, tight course with lots of corners. Not surprised your OEM set-up cooked, although i am surprised it lasted that long. What fluid were you using? If your rotors grooved, your pads are probably pretty much scrap. Ditto with your fluid. I wouldn't drive much longer on either and highly recommend you swap them out the soonest possible. (Ask me how i know.)
In any case, to help alleviate it for future runs, other than good fluid, get a decent set of rotors and pads. If you plan on hitting the track often and can afford to swap out pads between track and daily, look into the Carbotech family of pads. All their compounds are compatible with each other so there's no need to resurface the rotors after each swap. For the most part, bedding is minimal when swapping them in/out.
Cooling ducts seem to help the coupe just as much as the 370z's, so look into that. It will mostly be a DIY thing.
Also, look into some open-spoke wheels. It will help a little with cooling.
Also, FYI.
Turn by turn guide to the Putnam Park track - Trackpedia
In any case, to help alleviate it for future runs, other than good fluid, get a decent set of rotors and pads. If you plan on hitting the track often and can afford to swap out pads between track and daily, look into the Carbotech family of pads. All their compounds are compatible with each other so there's no need to resurface the rotors after each swap. For the most part, bedding is minimal when swapping them in/out.
Cooling ducts seem to help the coupe just as much as the 370z's, so look into that. It will mostly be a DIY thing.
Also, look into some open-spoke wheels. It will help a little with cooling.
Also, FYI.
Turn by turn guide to the Putnam Park track - Trackpedia
#12
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I just looked at the turn-by-turn and a couple vids on YT. Seems like a small, tight course with lots of corners. Not surprised your OEM set-up cooked, although i am surprised it lasted that long. What fluid were you using? If your rotors grooved, your pads are probably pretty much scrap. Ditto with your fluid. I wouldn't drive much longer on either and highly recommend you swap them out the soonest possible. (Ask me how i know.)
In any case, to help alleviate it for future runs, other than good fluid, get a decent set of rotors and pads. If you plan on hitting the track often and can afford to swap out pads between track and daily, look into the Carbotech family of pads. All their compounds are compatible with each other so there's no need to resurface the rotors after each swap. For the most part, bedding is minimal when swapping them in/out.
Cooling ducts seem to help the coupe just as much as the 370z's, so look into that. It will mostly be a DIY thing.
Also, look into some open-spoke wheels. It will help a little with cooling.
Also, FYI.
Turn by turn guide to the Putnam Park track - Trackpedia
In any case, to help alleviate it for future runs, other than good fluid, get a decent set of rotors and pads. If you plan on hitting the track often and can afford to swap out pads between track and daily, look into the Carbotech family of pads. All their compounds are compatible with each other so there's no need to resurface the rotors after each swap. For the most part, bedding is minimal when swapping them in/out.
Cooling ducts seem to help the coupe just as much as the 370z's, so look into that. It will mostly be a DIY thing.
Also, look into some open-spoke wheels. It will help a little with cooling.
Also, FYI.
Turn by turn guide to the Putnam Park track - Trackpedia
Completely agree. Didn't we just talk about this in another thread?
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...and-track.html
4 things are needed for good track brakes. Good calipers, high temp fluid, track compound brake pads, and strong rotors (everyone touced on in this thread). SS braded lines are optional but recommended for pressure rating.
Easiest thing to do would be to have track rotors and pads that you can swap out as mike said. Obviously you can leave the BBK and high temp fluid on for DD as they will work just dandy.
The phrase "pay to play" comes to mind. And as I ended my comment in the thread above, please do your research before you go with a track setup. It could mean the difference between a fun day at the track or wrecking your car/getting hurt.
**edit** also, a good set of tires are needed to aid in braking week through corners
#13
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The Akebono G37/370Z brakes offer a 25% more swept area and are comparable with the G37 ABS master cylinder. The biggest advantage is their heat sink capability and that they function perfectly on either street or track without having to swap anything. For well under $500, this modest upgrade offers good bang for the buck.
Last edited by dkmura; 04-09-2013 at 10:02 PM.
#14
as someone who has done many track days (on my bike) i can tell you, brake fluid & pads are important, but its also how you handle your ride.
can i ask you a few questions?
did you late brake quickly & hard? or did you brake early on, but gently, dragging the brakes?
did you trail-brake through the corner?
did you drain the fluid before your track day?
Did you hit your entrance cones, apex cones, and exit cones correctly? (i ask because those who dont, tend to need to slow down more/harder/faster to not crash)
very often how you use your brakes, will depend on how the pads & fluid will last. a lot of beginners over-use their brakes because they are still scared of pushing their cars/bikes through the corner at higher speeds. they over-use their brakes thus over-heating them. PS: who did you do your track day with?
can i ask you a few questions?
did you late brake quickly & hard? or did you brake early on, but gently, dragging the brakes?
did you trail-brake through the corner?
did you drain the fluid before your track day?
Did you hit your entrance cones, apex cones, and exit cones correctly? (i ask because those who dont, tend to need to slow down more/harder/faster to not crash)
very often how you use your brakes, will depend on how the pads & fluid will last. a lot of beginners over-use their brakes because they are still scared of pushing their cars/bikes through the corner at higher speeds. they over-use their brakes thus over-heating them. PS: who did you do your track day with?
#15
I'm no expert but if the rotors are grooved, when you replace it spend a few dollars more and get slotted rotors and street able pads that are good for light track use. That way they will be great for street and won't fade on the track. The more track able the pad the higher the brake noise and dusting. With my 6mt sedan the akebono creates a lot if dust when I hit this 15 mile stretch of curves twice and I only had to break a couple of times