Custom Brake Cooling Duct
04-06-2013, 06:38 AM
#16
Fabricated using 6xxx series aluminum sheet. 0.035" thickness. 0.035" thick aluminum came closest to the original thickness of our splash shields.
Made the hole closest possible to the center of the hub. So that vented air won't blow on rotor face. Tilted the aluminum pipe 15 degrees so that it won't rub against the steering column. If the pipe sets straight up, pipe has to be positioned further away from the hub. Picture Below.
Fabricated bumper inserts to hold hoses from the front. With one opening to the cooling duct, and another for the Injen CAI.
Fitment was a little tight for the splash shield, but no major issues. Went in nicely.
Thanks Brandon@FIT Motorsports for this. Couldn't have done better.
Ran the hose through back of suspention, Attaching to the front bumper inserts.
About 3-4 inches to the front of where the sway bar brackets sit.
Is the closest point where tire will rub the hose.
Just enough room to lock the hose under the chassis.
Next to the sway bar bracket.
Picture below is driver side wheel,
when the steering is at fullest left hand turn lock.
Hose will get compressed.
And if the length is not appropriate will rub
against the inner corner of the wheel.
Picture below is also driver side wheel, when the steering
is at fullest right hand turn lock. Hose will get extended,
and if the length is not adjusted will push the splash shield back.
Just played around from lock to lock and to get
the length just right on both lock positions.
Duct tape over the hose and clamped tight with worm gear hose clamps.
Used the bridged ones specially made for the application.
Bumper inserts from outside, at night.
Bumper inserts from outside, during day light.
Bumper inserts under shadow.
Front of the car. Almost can not tell on the shadow part. Very stealthy.
Painted the hole thing with flat black spray paint.
Brake system works on a physical property. By converting frictional energy into heat energy. When under severe frequent braking like we do on a racing track. At one point our braking system will reach it's maximum temperature, and can not convert frictional energy into heat energy. So in order to keep from the brake system to reach its peak temperature, there are two solutions. One water, and two cool vented air. Water not suitable for brakes, so obviously we opt for cool air.
FYI BMW 3 series is equipped with non-contact brake duct to keep ambient temperature down. Go tell BMW its mental.
Venting cool air into brake system to cool the brakes is not mental. Rather smart way to keep from brake system to reach its maximum temperature. Just like you would blow air to your finger tips after touching very hot object. Or should you just make yourself mentally believe its not hot. I rather blow my finger tips.
Very nice, but I don't think this will fit our stock G37. Looks just like one on Koenigsegg
Made the hole closest possible to the center of the hub. So that vented air won't blow on rotor face. Tilted the aluminum pipe 15 degrees so that it won't rub against the steering column. If the pipe sets straight up, pipe has to be positioned further away from the hub. Picture Below.
Fabricated bumper inserts to hold hoses from the front. With one opening to the cooling duct, and another for the Injen CAI.
Fitment was a little tight for the splash shield, but no major issues. Went in nicely.
Thanks Brandon@FIT Motorsports for this. Couldn't have done better.
Ran the hose through back of suspention, Attaching to the front bumper inserts.
About 3-4 inches to the front of where the sway bar brackets sit.
Is the closest point where tire will rub the hose.
Just enough room to lock the hose under the chassis.
Next to the sway bar bracket.
Picture below is driver side wheel,
when the steering is at fullest left hand turn lock.
Hose will get compressed.
And if the length is not appropriate will rub
against the inner corner of the wheel.
Picture below is also driver side wheel, when the steering
is at fullest right hand turn lock. Hose will get extended,
and if the length is not adjusted will push the splash shield back.
Just played around from lock to lock and to get
the length just right on both lock positions.
Duct tape over the hose and clamped tight with worm gear hose clamps.
Used the bridged ones specially made for the application.
Bumper inserts from outside, at night.
Bumper inserts from outside, during day light.
Bumper inserts under shadow.
Front of the car. Almost can not tell on the shadow part. Very stealthy.
Painted the hole thing with flat black spray paint.
FYI BMW 3 series is equipped with non-contact brake duct to keep ambient temperature down. Go tell BMW its mental.
Venting cool air into brake system to cool the brakes is not mental. Rather smart way to keep from brake system to reach its maximum temperature. Just like you would blow air to your finger tips after touching very hot object. Or should you just make yourself mentally believe its not hot. I rather blow my finger tips.
Very nice, but I don't think this will fit our stock G37. Looks just like one on Koenigsegg
Last edited by joo030879; 04-10-2013 at 11:04 PM.
05-03-2013, 10:22 AM
#19
Registered User
Hey Joo what did you do for the passenger side aka windshield washer tank. I had to remove the tank completely but now that I am not tracking the car anymore I was thinking about putting the tank back in. I found the ducting might have helped a little but I still got the brakes real hot and the calipers turned from silver to gold, I think I told ya last year. Your new setup looks great but just curious on how you over came the windshield washer tank.
for the small price of an arm, leg and nut.
05-03-2013, 12:13 PM
#22
Good work and good job.
I've been wanting to do this for a long time now and never got around to it. Not really needed in my case because I don't use the brakes as much as someone on like a track does lets say. This is a known weak link in G37's/370Z's that do any track time. The brakes fade fast due to overheating.
Awesome!
I've been wanting to do this for a long time now and never got around to it. Not really needed in my case because I don't use the brakes as much as someone on like a track does lets say. This is a known weak link in G37's/370Z's that do any track time. The brakes fade fast due to overheating.
Awesome!
05-08-2013, 04:16 PM
#23
Hey Joo what did you do for the passenger side aka windshield washer tank. I had to remove the tank completely but now that I am not tracking the car anymore I was thinking about putting the tank back in. I found the ducting might have helped a little but I still got the brakes real hot and the calipers turned from silver to gold, I think I told ya last year. Your new setup looks great but just curious on how you over came the windshield washer tank.
Good work and good job.
I've been wanting to do this for a long time now and never got around to it. Not really needed in my case because I don't use the brakes as much as someone on like a track does lets say. This is a known weak link in G37's/370Z's that do any track time. The brakes fade fast due to overheating.
Awesome!
I've been wanting to do this for a long time now and never got around to it. Not really needed in my case because I don't use the brakes as much as someone on like a track does lets say. This is a known weak link in G37's/370Z's that do any track time. The brakes fade fast due to overheating.
Awesome!
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