What color caliper goes with Liquid Platinum Sedan?
12-16-2012, 10:26 PM
#31
Nobody vote for black? I ordered the BBK and have vendor power coated calipers black with white infiniti letters. They're currently sitting in the garage, I'll have them installed after new year. I am getting crazy now for not able to picture them on a black G sedan. I couldn't find one out there with black calipers, so my G will definitely be unique.
If you can't decide just leave it to the original factory silver color.
If you can't decide just leave it to the original factory silver color.
12-16-2012, 11:14 PM
#32
Nobody vote for black? I ordered the BBK and have vendor power coated calipers black with white infiniti letters. They're currently sitting in the garage, I'll have them installed after new year. I am getting crazy now for not able to picture them on a black G sedan. I couldn't find one out there with black calipers, so my G will definitely be unique.
If you can't decide just leave it to the original factory silver color.
If you can't decide just leave it to the original factory silver color.
Nissan Akebono BBK Big Brake Kit Complete Upgrade - Nissan 350Z 370Z
12-17-2012, 09:54 AM
#34
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
01-10-2013, 11:10 PM
#35
First, special thanks to Soundmike and all the DIY Caliper paint threads.
After much dabate about what color to paint my caliper. I decided to go with a color I really wanted regardless and paint it myself since its not mounted. If the color doesn't work, I can always redo them, now that I know how or have it professionally done like I originally plan.
Lesson learned: Dont rush, use multiple very light coats waiting 3-10min between coats. I think I had about 10-12 very light coats. After an hour, you can apply decal follow by clear coat. You just need to be careful not to touch area that will be seen when caliper are installed. Key to smooth/mirror like finish is wet sand any area that appear or feels rough. The paint will look dull after wet sand but the clear coat will make it shinny(Thanks soundmike).
This is my first time I KINDA am working on the car if you can even call it that , so I want it to be perfect. I followed the DIY thread and sand off the existing color (agreed with soundmike that its probably not powder coat as it came off too easy), follow by soap and water. I padded it dry with microfiber tower and blow dry.
I used one of the rear caliper as a guinea pig to learn proper technique. I thought I was using light coat but still got the runs. I waited 2 days before sanding (1500 grits) the over spray area, follow by wet sanding and then applied additional coats. Turns out, the over spray marks looks darker than the rest of the area and I know that will eat at me later on. Before another attempt, I used a heat gun set at high to speed up the curing process. I didnt care if it burn the paint but duplicolor engine enamel paint was very resilient to heat..good to know. Waited a day and sand down the area again until I see an even appearance.
Second attempt: with mutiple lighter coat, waiting 3-10min between coats and spraying from about 8-10 inch away produce a nice shinny & smooth surface. Spraying too far away cause paint to feel rough and you might have to wet sand to archive smooth mirror like finish. Follow the same process for the rest of the caliper. Waited 4 days and each night I used the heat gun on them before putting them to bed. I then applied the decal on one, clear coat it, inspect and apply decal on next caliper to give first caliper time to dry before applying another very light coat. Spend about two hours doing this using about two cans of clear paint. To my horror, on one of the caliper, the paint/clear coat shrivel up
. Not sure what happen 
, maybe caliper was in a warm room and spray paint was in cold basement. Oh well, started all over again with this one caliper but the rest look perfect.
Made an appointment for next wed to install bbk (akebono, stoptech slotted/drilled rotors, SS line, motul brake fluid and H&R 15mm DRS spacer just incase it dont fit OEM 18 wheels)
Read even with zinc coated rotor it will still rust. Should I clear coat rotor hat and area brake pad wont touch?
Thanks again everyone.
2 Duplicolor Engine Enamel paint (DE1653 RED)
2 Duplicolor Engine Enamel clear (DE1636 Clear)
600 & 1500 grit sand paper
1500 wet sand paper
Here is the end result.
After much dabate about what color to paint my caliper. I decided to go with a color I really wanted regardless and paint it myself since its not mounted. If the color doesn't work, I can always redo them, now that I know how or have it professionally done like I originally plan.
Lesson learned: Dont rush, use multiple very light coats waiting 3-10min between coats. I think I had about 10-12 very light coats. After an hour, you can apply decal follow by clear coat. You just need to be careful not to touch area that will be seen when caliper are installed. Key to smooth/mirror like finish is wet sand any area that appear or feels rough. The paint will look dull after wet sand but the clear coat will make it shinny(Thanks soundmike).
This is my first time I KINDA am working on the car if you can even call it that , so I want it to be perfect. I followed the DIY thread and sand off the existing color (agreed with soundmike that its probably not powder coat as it came off too easy), follow by soap and water. I padded it dry with microfiber tower and blow dry.
I used one of the rear caliper as a guinea pig to learn proper technique. I thought I was using light coat but still got the runs. I waited 2 days before sanding (1500 grits) the over spray area, follow by wet sanding and then applied additional coats. Turns out, the over spray marks looks darker than the rest of the area and I know that will eat at me later on. Before another attempt, I used a heat gun set at high to speed up the curing process. I didnt care if it burn the paint but duplicolor engine enamel paint was very resilient to heat..good to know. Waited a day and sand down the area again until I see an even appearance.
Second attempt: with mutiple lighter coat, waiting 3-10min between coats and spraying from about 8-10 inch away produce a nice shinny & smooth surface. Spraying too far away cause paint to feel rough and you might have to wet sand to archive smooth mirror like finish. Follow the same process for the rest of the caliper. Waited 4 days and each night I used the heat gun on them before putting them to bed. I then applied the decal on one, clear coat it, inspect and apply decal on next caliper to give first caliper time to dry before applying another very light coat. Spend about two hours doing this using about two cans of clear paint. To my horror, on one of the caliper, the paint/clear coat shrivel up
. Not sure what happen , maybe caliper was in a warm room and spray paint was in cold basement. Oh well, started all over again with this one caliper but the rest look perfect. Made an appointment for next wed to install bbk (akebono, stoptech slotted/drilled rotors, SS line, motul brake fluid and H&R 15mm DRS spacer just incase it dont fit OEM 18 wheels)
Read even with zinc coated rotor it will still rust. Should I clear coat rotor hat and area brake pad wont touch?
Thanks again everyone.
2 Duplicolor Engine Enamel paint (DE1653 RED)
2 Duplicolor Engine Enamel clear (DE1636 Clear)
600 & 1500 grit sand paper
1500 wet sand paper
Here is the end result.
01-11-2013, 07:16 AM
#38
Looks great! Glad to be of some assistance. 
When you go to have it installed, make sure they do not get any brake fluid on the calipers. If they do, wash it with water ASAP! Some shop techs will use the same rag to wipe any fluid drips from the bleeding to also wipe the caliper -- big no no!
Can't stress this enough.
p.s. If the shriveling is what i think you're describing, it happens when the previous layer being sprayed on hasn't completely gassed-up/dried yet, but the layer above it has. This is one reason spray manufacturers insist waiting a few days before applying more coats if you've already passed their window for the first few layers. Also a reason why it took me several days
When you go to have it installed, make sure they do not get any brake fluid on the calipers. If they do, wash it with water ASAP! Some shop techs will use the same rag to wipe any fluid drips from the bleeding to also wipe the caliper -- big no no!
Can't stress this enough.
p.s. If the shriveling is what i think you're describing, it happens when the previous layer being sprayed on hasn't completely gassed-up/dried yet, but the layer above it has. This is one reason spray manufacturers insist waiting a few days before applying more coats if you've already passed their window for the first few layers. Also a reason why it took me several days
01-11-2013, 09:54 AM
#39
Thanks guys
Not sure how the vinyl decal will hold up over time but others who have already done this have no complaints. However Soundmike did tested the decal in a oven and found it to be inadequate for track usage but for daily driving should be fine. Furthermore, when I was using the heat gun on high to dry the paint, I found it took a minute before it gets slightly warm. So the paint offer a level of heat protection for a brief period. That said, if you track follow soundmike procedure and use a stencil and paint the logo on, for dd decal should be fine.
After bbk install I'll bed the heck out of them :-) and check caliper temp.
Not sure how the vinyl decal will hold up over time but others who have already done this have no complaints. However Soundmike did tested the decal in a oven and found it to be inadequate for track usage but for daily driving should be fine. Furthermore, when I was using the heat gun on high to dry the paint, I found it took a minute before it gets slightly warm. So the paint offer a level of heat protection for a brief period. That said, if you track follow soundmike procedure and use a stencil and paint the logo on, for dd decal should be fine.
After bbk install I'll bed the heck out of them :-) and check caliper temp.
Last edited by sneakers; 01-11-2013 at 09:59 AM.
02-14-2013, 04:50 PM
#40
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gotta say thanks to mike...followed your instructions and, bam..here is the outcome.. used two coats of VHT caliper bright blue(SP732) and two coats after the stickers went on of VHT clear engine enanmel.. cost less than 50$ for everything.. i had my boy who is more experienced at painting do them, while we were on staff duty on Tues.. had them under a hot spot light for two hour rotation and put them in the oven at 350 for 4 fifteenth minute intervals.... we are going to try and install them tomorrow on my Maxima...so wish me luck, will be the second time i am doing rear brakes and first time doing fronts...
thanks mike...
i was looking for a DIY on how to install brakes couldn't find one..but i am keep looking..thank all you guys for allowing to me lurk your forums..i dont have a G..but our platforms are similar..and i love the work you guys put in...
PS..and Mike is right about the brake fluid..some leaked out on the back of my caliper and ate the paint up quick(thank goodness it was on the back).. so i was like F* it.. will have a fresh rag and soapy water standing by...
i think it will complement the interior nicely...
thanks mike...
i was looking for a DIY on how to install brakes couldn't find one..but i am keep looking..thank all you guys for allowing to me lurk your forums..i dont have a G..but our platforms are similar..and i love the work you guys put in...
PS..and Mike is right about the brake fluid..some leaked out on the back of my caliper and ate the paint up quick(thank goodness it was on the back).. so i was like F* it.. will have a fresh rag and soapy water standing by...
i think it will complement the interior nicely...
Last edited by Staggered357; 02-14-2013 at 04:55 PM.
(j/k)
02-26-2013, 10:51 PM
#44
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
Why are the hats this powder blue color? Is that intentional?
