PADS and ROTOR recommendations?
#3
Registered Member
Give these a shot, I heard these work great
Stoptech make some pretty affordable slotted rotors for our cars
If you want OEM stopping power stick to Akebono pads(same ones that Infiniti carries with out the Nissan branding)
If you want more stopping power than stock, stick to Hawk HPS or some Project Mu's
For the better clamping force I've heard great things about Hawk DTC's
more stopping power = more brake dust
Stoptech make some pretty affordable slotted rotors for our cars
If you want OEM stopping power stick to Akebono pads(same ones that Infiniti carries with out the Nissan branding)
If you want more stopping power than stock, stick to Hawk HPS or some Project Mu's
For the better clamping force I've heard great things about Hawk DTC's
more stopping power = more brake dust
Last edited by unknowndesi; 09-01-2012 at 05:07 AM.
#4
Cross Drilled or Slotted Rotors - what do ppl prefer?
I hear cross drilled vents heat a little better but is harder on the brake pads. I think I'm leaning towards slotted if that's the case.
I hear cross drilled vents heat a little better but is harder on the brake pads. I think I'm leaning towards slotted if that's the case.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Slotted rotors have less of a problem with heat cracking if you ever track the car. They also don't reduce the overall rotor contact surface with the pads for a better bite and scouring of the pad surface. They are not necessarily tougher on brake pads. People keep thinking that they act like knife blades scrapping a thin layer off the pad surface at each pass. What's really causing most of the pad wear is the amount of heat generated during the braking process. The greater the heat generated by hard braking, the more the pad wears down. Remember that pad deposition on the rotor face during bedding in is very important for good stopping power. This transfer of the pad material from the surface of the pad to the embedded pad material in the rotor is one of the reasons for the wear going on. It's sort of like a track which when clean (known as a green track) isn't very grippy against the tires. Once they start laying down some rubber, the track gets more grippy and now the tires start wearing out very quickly because of this exchange with the excess going off to the outside of the turn. Similar things happen with the pad/bedded in rotor face during hard braking. At least that's what I've been taught.
Al
Al
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#10
Where can I pick up Centrics, I heard they are the same maker as Stoptech
#11
Give these a shot, I heard these work great
Stoptech make some pretty affordable slotted rotors for our cars
If you want OEM stopping power stick to Akebono pads(same ones that Infiniti carries with out the Nissan branding)
If you want more stopping power than stock, stick to Hawk HPS or some Project Mu's
For the better clamping force I've heard great things about Hawk DTC's
more stopping power = more brake dust
Stoptech make some pretty affordable slotted rotors for our cars
If you want OEM stopping power stick to Akebono pads(same ones that Infiniti carries with out the Nissan branding)
If you want more stopping power than stock, stick to Hawk HPS or some Project Mu's
For the better clamping force I've heard great things about Hawk DTC's
more stopping power = more brake dust
What are some of the price rage for the rotors?
I want something with a crazy bite (stop n go in nyc with a 6spd is crazy fun)so I might go with hawks DTC ...recommend any vendors?
#12
Slotted rotors have less of a problem with heat cracking if you ever track the car. They also don't reduce the overall rotor contact surface with the pads for a better bite and scouring of the pad surface. They are not necessarily tougher on brake pads. People keep thinking that they act like knife blades scrapping a thin layer off the pad surface at each pass. What's really causing most of the pad wear is the amount of heat generated during the braking process. The greater the heat generated by hard braking, the more the pad wears down. Remember that pad deposition on the rotor face during bedding in is very important for good stopping power. This transfer of the pad material from the surface of the pad to the embedded pad material in the rotor is one of the reasons for the wear going on. It's sort of like a track which when clean (known as a green track) isn't very grippy against the tires. Once they start laying down some rubber, the track gets more grippy and now the tires start wearing out very quickly because of this exchange with the excess going off to the outside of the turn. Similar things happen with the pad/bedded in rotor face during hard braking. At least that's what I've been taught.
Al
Al
#13
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Just get OEM rotors and very good pads for the best street performance.
You don't need pricey two piece rotors unless:
a) you want the bling, or
b) you race and will actually notice the reduced inertia and need the additional cooling capacity.
As for "good pads" look into Carbotech bobcats, racingbrake ET500's, or the others that have been mentioned already. I'm currently running ET500's but will be switching to Carbotech so that I can swap in race pads without having to scour my rotors each time.
You don't need pricey two piece rotors unless:
a) you want the bling, or
b) you race and will actually notice the reduced inertia and need the additional cooling capacity.
As for "good pads" look into Carbotech bobcats, racingbrake ET500's, or the others that have been mentioned already. I'm currently running ET500's but will be switching to Carbotech so that I can swap in race pads without having to scour my rotors each time.
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