OB G

iTrader: (11)

Love the color. So there's no trimming of the brake shield for front caliper/rotor clearance? Get a big breaker bar. I have one that's like 2 feet. That'll help break loose all the seized up bolts.

bythabay

iTrader: (2)

Kudos on the install but keep this TSB in mind:

ITB09-037b

While braking, especially when braking at highway speeds:
• the steering wheel shakes
and/or
• the body vibrates
and/or
• the brake pedal pulsates (also known as “Brake Judder”)

1. Identify the brake system by NMC Model Code or visual inspection.
2. Remove the front brake caliper and rotor.
3. Install the new front brake backing plate (splash guard assembly).
4. Inspect the front brake rotor to determine if resurfacing is possible or if replacement is necessary.
5. Reinstall the front brake caliper.
6. Inspect the brake pads and install the new brake pad kit and new hardware kit if replacement is necessary.
7. Perform procedure on the other side of the vehicle.

I've performed this TSB a few times and the new front shields actually wrap around the rotor like the rears normally do.

Enjoy your new brakes - I know when I swapped the akebonos onto my wife's FX the braking performance was 100% better.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

That's the one upgrade I truly want, they look great BTW. Good luck getting everything just right, and does suck about the caliper nick, hate to scratch up those beauties
Maybe a wrecked S will somehow end up in a local wrecking yard and I can score some on the cheap (gotta have a dream )

Shurik355

iTrader: (4)

yeah I hear you. Im not driving the car actually, cause my rear calipers won't clear the wheels, Im waiting on spacers. And yes I already ordered the new bonjo bolts for my rear calipers.
This was a temporary install after all guys, since I had to finish it up and couldn't just leave the car on stands with wheels off.
Also I only had the car for 3 years. And it only has 50K miles. + my original OEM brakes are pretty fine, and never had issues with them so never really had to service them before 50K

You know I actually had a 2 feet braker bar with me there, but it didn't fit inside the wheel house there, and was no room to twist it.


Yes the front shield didn't need to be trimmed off, just the rear. On the Zs you would. But on G37s you don't need to.

Yeahh the rear is factory silver powder coated. I took the calipers apart completely and painted only one half of the caliper. The rear of it didn't need it really.

alanz

Post few pictures when you're all done and running. Sorry for the scratch on the rear that must hurts.

Shurik355

iTrader: (4)

Ok guys my Akebono Install turned into NIGHTMARE

So I moved my Project Kics 10mm spacers with built in studs that I had in the front to the back, so the rear wheels could clear the calipers, if you remember. So it clears all nice now but now the the factory studs appears to be too long and won't let the wheels to sit flush on the hub. The studs that spacers are sitting on are hitting the inside of my AfterMarket wheels ( there are holes for the studs in the wheels, but holes are not deep enough due to high offset of the wheels if you know what Im talking about. ... Im gonna have to trim my factory studs now so the wheels can sit flush.



So i installed my Factory wheels on the back so I can drive for now and wow how much clearance vs my Avant Garde wheels!!!



So anyway the 10mm front spacers went to the back, and my 5mm spacers went to the front... The front barely clears the front calipers, there is like 1mm clearance now! pretty scary... I do have 15mm spacers coming for the front though, but for now that's what I have.



OK now the WORST part!
I got a leak from the front Factory line right where it's highlighted in red. I remember when I was bleeding the brakes it leaked from there as well and the other side, I tightened the other side and then this one but it still leaks from here... It leaks pretty bad too. Anyone had this problem before and WHY has this happned??? I want to get new one now and install. Hopefully it will fix the leak! Have no idea why it's leaking from there!!!
Can anyone hook me up with the part number for that line that I need??? That's the line that goes behind the knuckle. This is an 07 G35 sport sedan

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

^^Did you use a flare nut wrench to tighten those fittings or a regular wrench?

Did you inspect the flare before securing it into the block?

Did you correct your triple washer nonsense?

Seriously, this type of work is best done by someone that knows exactly what they're doing, for everyone's safety.

Shurik355

iTrader: (4)

yes I inspected most of the stuff. Im not a beginner on the mechanical stuff. I work in the shop as the technician. I do mainly body work, but mechanical comes once in a while as well.

The washer stuff was the temporary, until I get the correct Bolts. Anything can go wrong with the lines especially when you install aftermarket parts.

Track Bandit

iTrader: (1)

Try taking the brake line off and see if you didn't over-tighten it. If so you may have either crushed the flare or split it which will then not seal correctly. Make sure the flare in the new brake line block is the same as in the caliper which is usually and inverted flare. These brake lines are a standard metric type but it seems only Nissan uses this type of overly complicated setup. Stoptech may have a direct flexible brake line for the front and rear which goes from the main hard line on the chassis to the caliper without all those stupid blocks. That's the way to go. I've upgraded my 2012 G37S brake lines to BF Goodridge lines which are duplicates of the factory setup for this car. They are working fine but still an overly complicated way to route a flexible line to a caliper. Use a flare wrench for the brake line nuts since the nuts are soft and can be rounded off easily. I would think that a replacement part for the rigid brake line for the rear and fronts should be on a sport version of a G35 if they have that option. Final option to repair that leak if you can't find the parts is to order either from Stoptech or Earl's Hoses and fitting for the caliper which will convert the hard line area with an an inverted flare to -3 AN male fitting. From there you would connect a standard -3 stainless hose setup to the standard metric female fitting found near the rigid brake line by the chassis. The new line can be routed near the shock bolt/nut and tied to the shock using what is called an "Adowl clamp." This allows you to place the clamp around the line and then push the holes of the clamp on the bolt as the normal line block is done. Earl's Hoses sells these clamps. On the spacers, quit fooling with unknown spacers. Go to H&R's website and get a set of spacers that will work without having to cut any studs shorter or modify their mounting in any way. The more you start making mods in that area, the more you're starting to play with fire. Do it right, call the right people and get the right parts and then it will all work as it should and you will be safe. Good luck.

Al