Pad and rotor recommendations
#1
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Pad and rotor recommendations
Im at about 32000 miles and its time for new brakes and probably rotors since I'm feeling vibrations. I have the an 09 G37xS so i dont have the bigger brakes. Any recommendations for a decent quiet, low dust setup with good bite? Anyone recommend cross-drilled or slotted rotors?
#2
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If you dont mind spending a little money, go with a set of DBA's with Hawk Ceramic pads. I have used these on my 06 GTO and they are amazing. They are a lot cheaper than going with a BBK and have great stopping power with no fade. Look into the 4000 series slotted rotors.
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I'd recommend OEM equivalents from any auto parts store.
Specialty pads (ceramic, carbon metallic, etc) offer improvement in certain areas but almost always force a tradeoff.
For example - pads with a stronger bite are hard on rotors and will wear them out faster. Pads designed to resist fading will often be noisier than you'd like. Pads designed to be quiet may create more brake dust. There are lots of tradeoffs.
I'm going to climb on my soap box here for a second. Most people on this board will disagree with what I'm about to say.
Unless you race your car on a track, drilled or slotted rotors will serve no purpose other than cosmetics (and to inform people in-the-know that you paid a lot of money for your brakes). There is simply no driving you will be able to do on public roads that will benefit from drilled/slotted rotors. Drilled/slotted rotors exist to mitigate fade caused by the build-up of heat and gas pressure between the pad and rotor; not to provide shorter stopping distance.
Specialty pads (ceramic, carbon metallic, etc) offer improvement in certain areas but almost always force a tradeoff.
For example - pads with a stronger bite are hard on rotors and will wear them out faster. Pads designed to resist fading will often be noisier than you'd like. Pads designed to be quiet may create more brake dust. There are lots of tradeoffs.
I'm going to climb on my soap box here for a second. Most people on this board will disagree with what I'm about to say.
Unless you race your car on a track, drilled or slotted rotors will serve no purpose other than cosmetics (and to inform people in-the-know that you paid a lot of money for your brakes). There is simply no driving you will be able to do on public roads that will benefit from drilled/slotted rotors. Drilled/slotted rotors exist to mitigate fade caused by the build-up of heat and gas pressure between the pad and rotor; not to provide shorter stopping distance.
#7
I'd recommend OEM equivalents from any auto parts store.
Specialty pads (ceramic, carbon metallic, etc) offer improvement in certain areas but almost always force a tradeoff.
For example - pads with a stronger bite are hard on rotors and will wear them out faster. Pads designed to resist fading will often be noisier than you'd like. Pads designed to be quiet may create more brake dust. There are lots of tradeoffs.
I'm going to climb on my soap box here for a second. Most people on this board will disagree with what I'm about to say.
Unless you race your car on a track, drilled or slotted rotors will serve no purpose other than cosmetics (and to inform people in-the-know that you paid a lot of money for your brakes). There is simply no driving you will be able to do on public roads that will benefit from drilled/slotted rotors. Drilled/slotted rotors exist to mitigate fade caused by the build-up of heat and gas pressure between the pad and rotor; not to provide shorter stopping distance.
Specialty pads (ceramic, carbon metallic, etc) offer improvement in certain areas but almost always force a tradeoff.
For example - pads with a stronger bite are hard on rotors and will wear them out faster. Pads designed to resist fading will often be noisier than you'd like. Pads designed to be quiet may create more brake dust. There are lots of tradeoffs.
I'm going to climb on my soap box here for a second. Most people on this board will disagree with what I'm about to say.
Unless you race your car on a track, drilled or slotted rotors will serve no purpose other than cosmetics (and to inform people in-the-know that you paid a lot of money for your brakes). There is simply no driving you will be able to do on public roads that will benefit from drilled/slotted rotors. Drilled/slotted rotors exist to mitigate fade caused by the build-up of heat and gas pressure between the pad and rotor; not to provide shorter stopping distance.
Slight nitpick - Cross drilled rotors are a no no for 'hard' track use Stick w/ slotted for tracks. Cross drilled are great at saving a touch of weight to decrease your drag slip times, but are not suited for 30 min epic lapping sessions
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#9
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Before doing brakes for any of my customers, I always cross reference their vehicle with the following bulletin to see if they need updated shields. The new shields are larger, and wrap over the entire rotor - this prevents uneven cooling.
BR09-002b ITB09-037b January 28, 2010
G COUPE AND SEDAN; BRAKE JUDDER
While braking, especially when braking at highway speeds:
• the steering wheel shakes
and/or
• the body vibrates
and/or
• the brake pedal pulsates (also known as “Brake Judder”)
ACTIONS:
1. Identify the brake system by NMC Model Code or visual inspection.
2. Remove the front brake caliper and rotor.
3. Install the new front brake backing plate (splash guard assembly).
4. Inspect the front brake rotor to determine if resurfacing is possible or if replacement is necessary.
5. Reinstall the front brake caliper.
6. Inspect the brake pads and install the new brake pad kit and new hardware kit if replacement is necessary.
7. Perform procedure on the other side of the vehicle.
G COUPE AND SEDAN; BRAKE JUDDER
While braking, especially when braking at highway speeds:
• the steering wheel shakes
and/or
• the body vibrates
and/or
• the brake pedal pulsates (also known as “Brake Judder”)
ACTIONS:
1. Identify the brake system by NMC Model Code or visual inspection.
2. Remove the front brake caliper and rotor.
3. Install the new front brake backing plate (splash guard assembly).
4. Inspect the front brake rotor to determine if resurfacing is possible or if replacement is necessary.
5. Reinstall the front brake caliper.
6. Inspect the brake pads and install the new brake pad kit and new hardware kit if replacement is necessary.
7. Perform procedure on the other side of the vehicle.
#10
Registered Member
Im at about 32000 miles and its time for new brakes and probably rotors since I'm feeling vibrations. I have the an 09 G37xS so i dont have the bigger brakes. Any recommendations for a decent quiet, low dust setup with good bite? Anyone recommend cross-drilled or slotted rotors?
Edit: bythabay beat me to it. I'm to slow at finding and uploading my pdf's. You can print off the pdf's and take them in to your dealer.
Last edited by rpm&my_G35; 07-08-2012 at 01:20 PM.
#12
Registered User
I've been running Powerslot Cryo rotors with Hawk HPS's on all 4 axles of my '07 X for nearly 2 years now and while this setup was obnoxiously expensive (like $670 for everything from TireRack), I'm still warp free and the pads still have at least 50% material left on them; I love their ferro-carbon composition.
#13
Registered User
I'm going to climb on my soap box here for a second. Most people on this board will disagree with what I'm about to say.
Unless you race your car on a track, drilled or slotted rotors will serve no purpose other than cosmetics (and to inform people in-the-know that you paid a lot of money for your brakes). There is simply no driving you will be able to do on public roads that will benefit from drilled/slotted rotors. Drilled/slotted rotors exist to mitigate fade caused by the build-up of heat and gas pressure between the pad and rotor; not to provide shorter stopping distance.
Unless you race your car on a track, drilled or slotted rotors will serve no purpose other than cosmetics (and to inform people in-the-know that you paid a lot of money for your brakes). There is simply no driving you will be able to do on public roads that will benefit from drilled/slotted rotors. Drilled/slotted rotors exist to mitigate fade caused by the build-up of heat and gas pressure between the pad and rotor; not to provide shorter stopping distance.
#14
Registered User
#15
Registered User
Have you looked into this TSB ITB09-037b. You might get some free parts and labour. When I had an 07X I was in twice for brake judder. The first time (about 40k km) they turned the rotors and changed the brake pads. The second time (about 60k km) they replaced the rotors and front brakes pads and installed the new front brake backing plate (splash guard assembly). I never paid anything.
Edit: bythabay beat me to it. I'm to slow at finding and uploading my pdf's. You can print off the pdf's and take them in to your dealer.
Edit: bythabay beat me to it. I'm to slow at finding and uploading my pdf's. You can print off the pdf's and take them in to your dealer.