KONI Sport Yellow Dampers instal with pics.
04-13-2012, 10:09 AM
#17
TVPostSound, any update on this setup? Did you end up getting the Swift Springs installed? I am currently looking to get the Koni Yellow and wants to know if there's anything new from you before I pull the trigger 
Thanks!
Thanks!
04-13-2012, 10:28 AM
#18
After being on Konis with Eibachs for a couple of months, it is the stock dampers that ruined the Eibach ride.
I personally will not switch to Swift. The ride is just simply awesome!!
As I told another member here. I no longer have the "Rice Honda Bounce"
I personally will not switch to Swift. The ride is just simply awesome!!
As I told another member here. I no longer have the "Rice Honda Bounce"
11-15-2014, 01:17 AM
#20
Koni Yellows Settings..
Sup TVPostSound!
I recently got the koni and the rebound is crazy stiff in the back. Just to clarify, when you say 1/2 turn out of 2, Are you referring to 2 being the stiffest or softest? I have to adjust the rear because it throws the rear out on bumps because of being too stiff. Can i adjust the rear myself or do i have to take it to a mechanic to take it off and adjust and install?
Thx Bro.
I recently got the koni and the rebound is crazy stiff in the back. Just to clarify, when you say 1/2 turn out of 2, Are you referring to 2 being the stiffest or softest? I have to adjust the rear because it throws the rear out on bumps because of being too stiff. Can i adjust the rear myself or do i have to take it to a mechanic to take it off and adjust and install?
Thx Bro.
When I spoke with the Koni engineer, he left the test car at 1/2 turn out of 2.
As he felt that was enough for a "Sporty" ride.
I took mine to 1 full turn out of 2. Any more would be too much for my taste.
As a matter of fact, every Koni I've ever installed starting with the Reds in 1978, was half way!!
Thanks for asking, I forgot to mention it in the OP.
As he felt that was enough for a "Sporty" ride.
I took mine to 1 full turn out of 2. Any more would be too much for my taste.
As a matter of fact, every Koni I've ever installed starting with the Reds in 1978, was half way!!
Thanks for asking, I forgot to mention it in the OP.
11-17-2014, 02:44 PM
#21
The Konis are adjustable at the top of the shock with there special valve tool. I think you can turn them with pliers also. I ran mine on the softest settings and never had any issue of ride quality and handling when needed.
TVPostSound,
Are you running the fronts on the lower perch setting on the Koni shocks? I know you did the spring mount mod on the rears. Looks good and bet ride quality is awesome!
TVPostSound,
Are you running the fronts on the lower perch setting on the Koni shocks? I know you did the spring mount mod on the rears. Looks good and bet ride quality is awesome!
11-19-2014, 07:13 PM
#22
Don't adjust the rears with pliers! At the top of the shock, just below the upper mount, there is a slot. INSIDE the slot is the adjustment point. You need a small rod, something like an allen wrench. Put the allen wrench in the hole and sweep from front to back to stiffen it; back to front to soften it. You'll need to jack the rear pretty high to fit your hand/allen wrench in there.
Also, *and this is key*, whomever installed the rear shocks has to have installed the rear upper mounts in an orientation that allows access to the slot. Since the upper mounts connect to the car in a ~45 degree angle, the access slot will most likely be obscured when they turned the top to line up the mounting holes. You won't be able to fit the allen wrench in there if this is the case. I made this mistake when I first mounted mine, and I need to reinstall the rears to make them accessible.
The other way to do it is to unbolt the two 12mm nuts that hold the top of the strut to the car, and manually compress the shock to gain access to the slot. Make the adjustment with the top free of the car but with the bottom still mounted and the tire still on, and then let the shock extend, and remount the tops.
Two ways to do it - major pain in the *** either way. Good luck!
Also, *and this is key*, whomever installed the rear shocks has to have installed the rear upper mounts in an orientation that allows access to the slot. Since the upper mounts connect to the car in a ~45 degree angle, the access slot will most likely be obscured when they turned the top to line up the mounting holes. You won't be able to fit the allen wrench in there if this is the case. I made this mistake when I first mounted mine, and I need to reinstall the rears to make them accessible.
The other way to do it is to unbolt the two 12mm nuts that hold the top of the strut to the car, and manually compress the shock to gain access to the slot. Make the adjustment with the top free of the car but with the bottom still mounted and the tire still on, and then let the shock extend, and remount the tops.
Two ways to do it - major pain in the *** either way. Good luck!
11-19-2014, 08:46 PM
#23
Registered User
Look's good bro... Fresh, clean set up..
Also Lou at Amplified Motorsport I agree nice guy known him for many years..
Also Lou at Amplified Motorsport I agree nice guy known him for many years..
Wow! What a difference!!
I'm still running Eibach springs, but had the Koni dampers installed at Lou's place (Amplified Motorsport). Yeah, I got lazy, but Lou has given me great deals, and his labor rates are more than reasonable!!
First thing I noticed was a more polite compression, still stiff, but it felt like a much smoother stroke.
Rebound is another story, gone is the jarring rebounding from bumps, the pitchyness on corners is all but gone. On a rough road high speed corner, the tail wont kick out as before, the damper is leaving a lot of weight on the tires, not a jerky rebound.
Ride comfort has greatly improved, especially on the truck lanes, where the highway has been washboarded. I dont feel like a Honda with cut springs anymore.
Lou's installer said it felt a little soft compared to the 370Z install he did, but my opinion, is that it still has a "luxury sports car" ride.
Besides the Z had Swift springs, which are a higher rate. The G has 75 Lbs more weight at each corner than the Z
Im going to give it a couple of weeks, maybe switch to Swifts, as Lou tells me the Swift rate are stiffer, but the ride doesnt suffer.
Eibachs with modified spring perch, Koni shocks, and Hotchkis sway bars!!!
I'm still running Eibach springs, but had the Koni dampers installed at Lou's place (Amplified Motorsport). Yeah, I got lazy, but Lou has given me great deals, and his labor rates are more than reasonable!!
First thing I noticed was a more polite compression, still stiff, but it felt like a much smoother stroke.
Rebound is another story, gone is the jarring rebounding from bumps, the pitchyness on corners is all but gone. On a rough road high speed corner, the tail wont kick out as before, the damper is leaving a lot of weight on the tires, not a jerky rebound.
Ride comfort has greatly improved, especially on the truck lanes, where the highway has been washboarded. I dont feel like a Honda with cut springs anymore.
Lou's installer said it felt a little soft compared to the 370Z install he did, but my opinion, is that it still has a "luxury sports car" ride.
Besides the Z had Swift springs, which are a higher rate. The G has 75 Lbs more weight at each corner than the Z
Im going to give it a couple of weeks, maybe switch to Swifts, as Lou tells me the Swift rate are stiffer, but the ride doesnt suffer.
Eibachs with modified spring perch, Koni shocks, and Hotchkis sway bars!!!
12-04-2014, 06:51 AM
#24
Don't adjust the rears with pliers! At the top of the shock, just below the upper mount, there is a slot. INSIDE the slot is the adjustment point. You need a small rod, something like an allen wrench. Put the allen wrench in the hole and sweep from front to back to stiffen it; back to front to soften it. You'll need to jack the rear pretty high to fit your hand/allen wrench in there.
Also, *and this is key*, whomever installed the rear shocks has to have installed the rear upper mounts in an orientation that allows access to the slot. Since the upper mounts connect to the car in a ~45 degree angle, the access slot will most likely be obscured when they turned the top to line up the mounting holes. You won't be able to fit the allen wrench in there if this is the case. I made this mistake when I first mounted mine, and I need to reinstall the rears to make them accessible.
The other way to do it is to unbolt the two 12mm nuts that hold the top of the strut to the car, and manually compress the shock to gain access to the slot. Make the adjustment with the top free of the car but with the bottom still mounted and the tire still on, and then let the shock extend, and remount the tops.
Two ways to do it - major pain in the *** either way. Good luck!
Also, *and this is key*, whomever installed the rear shocks has to have installed the rear upper mounts in an orientation that allows access to the slot. Since the upper mounts connect to the car in a ~45 degree angle, the access slot will most likely be obscured when they turned the top to line up the mounting holes. You won't be able to fit the allen wrench in there if this is the case. I made this mistake when I first mounted mine, and I need to reinstall the rears to make them accessible.
The other way to do it is to unbolt the two 12mm nuts that hold the top of the strut to the car, and manually compress the shock to gain access to the slot. Make the adjustment with the top free of the car but with the bottom still mounted and the tire still on, and then let the shock extend, and remount the tops.
Two ways to do it - major pain in the *** either way. Good luck!
I can squeeze my hand up in and adjust them, but it's a bitch. Considering how easy it is to drop the rear shock, it's probably easier and you won't bust up your knuckles.
I have the fronts at 3 turns from full soft, and the rear and 2 sweeps from full soft.
I believe the allen wrench is 1.5mm. Pic of the window attached.
02-25-2015, 08:23 PM
#25
I have a question for anyone who has assembled the front strut/spring units. The parts provided for the front includes the strut itself, the lower spring seat, and some mounting hardware: a teflon washer that goes on the top of the strut body, the piston nut, a flat washer and a split washer. What is the split washer for and where does it go? Split lock washers aren't supposed to be used on top of a flat washer. What's it's purpose?
02-26-2015, 05:47 PM
#26
I bought mine used, already assembled, so I don't have a concrete answer for you, but on other Konis, I believe I used the lock washer under the top nut (?). I sure hope someone else has a better answer for you as I am going off memory from a few years ago. ...And it was on a set of Konis for another car.
02-26-2015, 10:04 PM
#27
Thanks. I just used the flat washer and left the lock washer out of the equation. I got the fronts installed today. But there's one problem - not only did they not lower the front, it's actually higher than stock! I know they'll settle, but not nearly that much. I have no idea what the heck is going on there. I will have to call Swift tomorrow to see what gives. Meanwhile, I might go mudding this weekend in my 4x4.
02-27-2015, 07:08 AM
#28
Thanks. I just used the flat washer and left the lock washer out of the equation. I got the fronts installed today. But there's one problem - not only did they not lower the front, it's actually higher than stock! I know they'll settle, but not nearly that much. I have no idea what the heck is going on there. I will have to call Swift tomorrow to see what gives. Meanwhile, I might go mudding this weekend in my 4x4.
How did you mount the lower spring perch on the front? It can be mounted two different ways. These aren't my pictures, but show how the lower spring perch--the silver cup the spring sits in--can be mounted "upside down".
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02-27-2015, 03:00 PM
#29
Unfortunately I'm a moron and mounted it the wrong way on the strut.
Makes perfect sense now that I see it that way. Without a frame of reference, it didn't seem wrong when I was assembling them and I didn't have to compress the spring to what seemed an excessive amount so nothing looked wrong. That is until I dropped it off the jack and noticed the huge wheel gap. I was parked in the driveway beside my wife's completely stock sedan and looking at them side by side it made hers look slammed. Lol. Thanks again. You rock. PM me your PayPal, I have a few bucks coming your way. True story. At least enough to buy a some beer or a bottle of cheap wine. 
Also, everything I've learned and read tells me that a flat washer underneath a split lock washer isn't right. The split lock washer needs to contact the fastener and the surface it's fastening to with nothing in between. I may call Swift today and see if anyone can clarify.
02-27-2015, 03:16 PM
#30
You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
Unfortunately I'm a moron and mounted it the wrong way on the strut. Makes perfect sense now that I see it that way. Without a frame of reference, it didn't seem wrong when I was assembling them and I didn't have to compress the spring to what seemed an excessive amount so nothing looked wrong. That is until I dropped it off the jack and noticed the huge wheel gap. I was parked in the driveway beside my wife's completely stock sedan and looking at them side by side it made hers look slammed. Lol. Thanks again. You rock. PM me your PayPal, I have a few bucks coming your way. True story. At least enough to buy a some beer or a bottle of cheap wine.
Also, everything I've learned and read tells me that a flat washer underneath a split lock washer isn't right. The split lock washer needs to contact the fastener and the surface it's fastening to with nothing in between. I may call Swift today and see if anyone can clarify.
Unfortunately I'm a moron and mounted it the wrong way on the strut.
Makes perfect sense now that I see it that way. Without a frame of reference, it didn't seem wrong when I was assembling them and I didn't have to compress the spring to what seemed an excessive amount so nothing looked wrong. That is until I dropped it off the jack and noticed the huge wheel gap. I was parked in the driveway beside my wife's completely stock sedan and looking at them side by side it made hers look slammed. Lol. Thanks again. You rock. PM me your PayPal, I have a few bucks coming your way. True story. At least enough to buy a some beer or a bottle of cheap wine. Also, everything I've learned and read tells me that a flat washer underneath a split lock washer isn't right. The split lock washer needs to contact the fastener and the surface it's fastening to with nothing in between. I may call Swift today and see if anyone can clarify.
I think this is where the whole misconception comes from that Koni Yellows raise the G. It's easy to mistakenly mount the lower perch backwards, because lets face it, the "instructions" that come with the Koni's suck.
Interesting to know about the lock washer. I just went with the diagram in the instructions. It would be easy to fix if its wrong.